Hi guys, I am very glad to find this forum and thank you in advance for your help. Here is my problem. Bought this '99 T&C LTD 3.8L about 4 years ago with 101 000 miles on it. Didn't have any problems so far (150 000 miles). Didn't touch the engine, all was fine. A week ago couldn't start; cranks, there is a spark, no pressure in the fuel rail. Left it on the driveway; three days ago tried again; - it started without problem, drove it for 2-3 days as if nothig has happened. Well, this morning couldn't start again - cranks, no fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Something doesn't work properly from time to time and I hope you'll help me fix it.

Hi guys, I am very glad to find this forum and thank you in advance for your help. Here is my problem. Bought this '99 T&C LTD 3.8L about 4 years ago with 101 000 miles on it. Didn't have any problems so far (150 000 miles). Didn't touch the engine, all was fine. A week ago couldn't start; cranks, there is a spark, no pressure in the fuel rail. Left it on the driveway; three days ago tried again; - it started without problem, drove it for 2-3 days as if nothig has happened. Well, this morning couldn't start again - cranks, no fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Something doesn't work properly from time to time and I hope you'll help me fix it.


Next time it does not start and has spark try hitting the gas tank with a rubber hammer or 2X4 to see if that jars the pump to operate again. Also check the fuel pump relay.

Thank you for your suggestion. I have already flipped the relays(they all look the same and have the same symbols on them) - no change. I checked also the wires on the fuel pump on top of tank with a multimeter; when the key is turned "ON", there is NO power on either of the 4 wires. What bothers me is that the car started and I drove it for three days, before it stopped again.

Thank you for your suggestion. I have already flipped the relays(they all look the same and have the same symbols on them) - no change. I checked also the wires on the fuel pump on top of tank with a multimeter; when the key is turned "ON", there is NO power on either of the 4 wires. What bothers me is that the car started and I drove it for three days, before it stopped again.

You will not get power to the pump with the key ON if the engine is not running. You should hear a two-second prime at the pump when you first turn the key on, but after that, if the engine is not running you'll get nothing. Have you listened for the two-second prime? Turn the key to run (not start, because the noise from cranking will overpower the sound from the pump) and you should hear the pump run for 2 seconds. If you don't, you can check for power at the pump as described below.

I don't have info on a 99, but the diagram for a 2004 shows the Dark Blue/Orange wire that sends power to the pump. The Black/Orange is the ground. If your colors are different, just remember that the two heavier-guage wires are for the pump, the other two are for the fuel guage. You can use a multi-meter to see which is ground & which should give you power.

If you check for power at the pump you should have someone turn the key on while you have your meter or a test light on it and see if you get power for two seconds. If you do, AND you have a good ground, then the pump is bad. If you do not get power for 2 seconds there's something wrong with the circuit and you'll need to get your hands on a wiring diagram for a '99.

Good luck.

Here's a diagram. This engine does not have a MAF it is a speed density system.

Thank you for your suggestions and the diagram (I have to learn how to read it first:jerking:). I have checked the pump, as well as with a test lamp while turning the key ON, without cranking. There is no 2 sec. noise from the pump and there is no signal from the test lamp either. I have to assume there is a problem with the circuit. Can you tell me from where the fuel pump gets the charge and does it work constantly while the engine is running? (I'll try to bypass the old wiring if possible . . .)

Fuel pump is running all the time the engine is running. You can pull the relay and jump pin #30 to # 87 and see if the pump will come run. If it won't run keep the jumper in place and check for power at the fuel pump connector. Pins 1 and 4 should be connected with your test light at the pump connector. Wire colors are black (ground) and dark green with a white tracer (power from relay). This way you can use and check the van wiring.

I did exactly as you've told me. Made a bridge between #30 and #87 - no noise from the pump. Checked for power at the fuel pump connector with ground taken from the hole I cut in the van to reach the pump - there is constantly power there, when the key is on "START". Looks like the pump is bad. Will change it tomorrow. Is it possible for a pump before to go totally broken to work intermittenly? This is my last question and thank you for the help. Will post the results on Saturday.

I did exactly as you've told me. Made a bridge between #30 and #87 - no noise from the pump. Checked for power at the fuel pump connector with ground taken from the hole I cut in the van to reach the pump - there is constantly power there, when the key is on "START". Looks like the pump is bad. Will change it tomorrow. Is it possible for a pump before to go totally broken to work intermittenly? This is my last question and thank you for the help. Will post the results on Saturday.


Yes they can work intermittenly, sometimes a jarring of the tank with a rubber hammer will jolt the pump enough for it to work again for a time.

Just my .02 worth everyone...:rolleyes:

I always turn the key on to the run position and wait for the pump just as a matter of knowing how the system works. Once the pump shuts off I then turn the key to start it. This keeps the starter operation to a minimum and if just my "OCD" way of doing it. (My wife after being married to me after 20+ years that the definition of insanity and OCD are the same!) :banghead::banghead::banghead:

From "experience" I would agree with everyone that its probably the fuel pump going bad. And yes, they will work intermittently before failing totally most of the time. From what I know the quality of the fuel your using and maybe even more importantly the amount of fuel in the tank matters alot. Running the tank out to the last gallon or so will allow any sediments in the bottom of the tank to get into the pump. The fuel filter system should prevent any damage to the injectors but the pump is on its own here.

Good Luck! Hope this helps!

Well, finally I have fixed my van and I want to thank all of you guys. Your suggestions helped me to find the best (and cheapest) solution of my problem. It was indeed the fuel pump; I have just installed the new one - purrs like a kiten. I gained important knowledge and I hope this thread will help the next guy with the same problem. I must admit that the Haynes Manual gives somewhat misleading info - obviously 5 years ago they didn't sell "pump assembly", so some parts from the old pump were needed to be installed on the new one. Now it is much easier - just remove the old one and place the new one. I didn't want to pay $45 for this Miller's wrench, so I made one myself from an old cutting board, made from 1/2 in polyethylene. All in all, the price for repairing my van - $160. The pleasure to have become a member of this forum and chat with you guys - priceless!:bananasmi

I did exactly as you've told me. Made a bridge between #30 and #87 - no noise from the pump. Checked for power at the fuel pump connector with ground taken from the hole I cut in the van to reach the pump - there is constantly power there, when the key is on "START". Looks like the pump is bad. Will change it tomorrow. Is it possible for a pump before to go totally broken to work intermittenly? This is my last question and thank you for the help. Will post the results on Saturday.

What did you use to cut the hole in the van? How did you know where to cut & how deep to go without piercing the tank?

I'm asking because I know sooner or later I'll need to replace my pump and I'm not sure if I want to drop the tank.

Thanks!
P.S. Glad you got it running and thanks for posting the solution, it could help others with similar problems.

That's Great! And Thank You for letting us know what finally done the trick!

Good Job!

:runaround: :runaround: :runaround: :runaround:

:feedback: :icesangel :feedback:

It is actually very easy. I have my middle seats removed and the back seat attached on their place, so I had plenty of space to make the hole. You can easily see the tank cap while looking below the van from the passenger side. I have cut the carpet some 15 inches paralelly to the back seat just 5 inches below it. Below the carpet you'll see a bunch of wires and a gromet with 4 wires that feed the fuel pump. Remove the gromet and there is a hole in the floor. The metal is very easy to cut. I did it with simple sheet metal scisors. some 10 inches on left of gromet hole and 10 inches ahead on both sides. It makes a square 10 X 10 in, with the gromet hole on the bottom right corner. Just like a tin can opening, but you leave one side intact and just bend the cut metal to open the hole. I even didn't empty the tank, which was almost full, by the way. Of course it is better to have the tank half full to do the job safely. . . . Good luck!

Thanks! That sounds a lot easier and quicker than dropping the tank! My van has 167K and I know sooner or later it will be due for a fuel pump.