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93 Rear end rebuild parts


Limitboy
06-23-2011, 09:42 PM
93 CVPI, ~250K

I think I have a rear end that might be going bad. I have replaced the diff fluid regularly and last time i had the diff cover off the ring and pinion looked good. But a groaning sound has become very apparent. I recently replaced the front hubs, so I knew those weren't the problem.

I checked the rear wheels and there is a bit of play on the drivers side. After reading several posts, it sounds like I might be ok with just the axles. But in the event I have to replace every bearing and seal, can anyone tell me where i can find a list of those parts?

Is this a DIY job for one person? Any recommendations or thing to avoid?

Thanks,

Blue)(Fusion
06-26-2011, 11:02 AM
You are looking for this kit:
Ford Racing Ring and Pinion Installation Kits (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-4210-C/)

If you have traction-lok, you also want this kit:
Ford Racing 8.8 in. Axle Installation Kits (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-4700-B)

It's not a terribly hard job to undertake alone. But be sure to read alot of instructions. Use the correct tools. You will absolutely need an inch-pound torque wrench to measure pinion preload, a breaker bar to tighten the NEW pinion crush sleeve and nut, a dial indicator to measure backlash, 2.5 quarts of fresh gear oil, an extendable magnet to pull and install the C-clips, special paint if you want to check the wear pattern, and if you have to re-shim the carrier you will also need a digital caliper. Try to reuse the original shims if they are not cracked. It should leave backlash very close to what you want.

To see my latest venture to repair a whine/groan coming from my differential, see this thread (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1063799).

Limitboy
06-27-2011, 05:52 PM
I didn't think it would be to bad until it came to adjusting the shims and backlash. And I wasn't sure how easy it would be to remove the axle bearings. I have read many posts and people claim they have had to use a long bar from the opposite side to force them out. Did you experience any problems like that? I often wonder if some people are just impatient and don't realize it merely requires time to remove bearings.

These might be stupid questions, but is it worth replacing just the axles and bearings?
If I want to replace the differential bearings would it be easy to realign by simply measuring the total thickness of the previous bearings and shims. Then just match that thickness with new bearings and shims on both sides, or is it a trial and error process?

Thanks, Blue)(Fusion

rhandwor
06-27-2011, 06:09 PM
If you need more than a axle and bearing it would be cheaper to purchase a good used rear end at a scrap yard. Bearings and seals are very expensive.

Blue)(Fusion
06-27-2011, 11:12 PM
I did have to use a hammer and bar to get the pinion races out of the case. Not hard or very time consuming though.

As long as you re-use the same shims in same locations you removed them from, everything should line up a very close match to what you want. But check the shims for cracks as they sometimes develop during installation or removal. If you do have to use different shims, you will need the caliper to find a replacement or use several smaller shims in one shim's place.

I replaced my carrier and gears and it took more trial and error on the backlash to get things to work just right, meaning new shims. I would install, check the backlash, removed, and remeasure and move around shims and try again. For the pinion, I just used the factory installed shim and didn't worry about that one at all. Once I got the backlash set right, the wear pattern was right on the money.

But do be sure to only tighten down the pinion nut to the proper preload. When I replaced my carrier and gears in January, I re-used the same pinion bearings and races. I failed to read the note that said if you're using old bearings, you need to set preload to only about 12 in-lbs. New bearings on the pinion require 16-22 in-lbs. When I replaced the bearings that went bad last month, I set the pinion preload to 18 in-lbs and had no problems and I drag race it and leave my fair share of rubber on the streets so it is taking a beating like a champ.

rsim
10-02-2011, 12:47 AM
Would an improper pre load cause noise. Just had some one replace a pinion seal and now it is making a noise at 50 to 60 but is not there before or after that speed
thanks for your help

rhandwor
10-02-2011, 05:06 AM
Would an improper pre load cause noise. Just had some one replace a pinion seal and now it is making a noise at 50 to 60 but is not there before or after that speed
thanks for your help
Ford uses a crush shim to maintain tension for the pinion. Loosen the nut tighten until a long 1/2 ratchet will balance if on a socket on the nut. I've replaced a lot of seals and never had a problem this way. Make sure the emergency brake isn't set. After you do enough you can tell by feel.

rsim
10-02-2011, 10:49 AM
HI
Thanks
So there is a possibility that if the preload is too tight it may cause some noise at a certain speed?
here is another problem This is the second time this side has gone bad.
Not sure if cause is the same as i did not do the work on the first one.
This one looks like a bad after market part as the bearings are good but the axle in ground down
Let me know what you think
Thanks
Rod
Today i removed the 1 and 1/16 inch nut from the pinion and pulled the flange off. I now do not understand pre load Is the pre load applied to the 1 and 1/16 nut?
Is so it took over 140 ft lbs to brake it loose. When I put it back on it hit bottom and I put about 130 ft lb back on. had to make a tool to hold flange then put a 4 foot extension on tool and 2 foot extension on ratchet
http://http://simoniansawservice.com/AX2.jpg

rhandwor
10-03-2011, 05:09 AM
HI
Thanks
So there is a possibility that if the preload is too tight it may cause some noise at a certain speed?
here is another problem This is the second time this side has gone bad.
Not sure if cause is the same as i did not do the work on the first one.
This one looks like a bad after market part as the bearings are good but the axle in ground down
Let me know what you think
Thanks
Rod
Today i removed the 1 and 1/16 inch nut from the pinion and pulled the flange off. I now do not understand pre load Is the pre load applied to the 1 and 1/16 nut?
Is so it took over 140 ft lbs to brake it loose. When I put it back on it hit bottom and I put about 130 ft lb back on. had to make a tool to hold flange then put a 4 foot extension on tool and 2 foot extension on ratchet
http://http://simoniansawservice.com/AX2.jpg
You want to adjust the nut to a tension that if you have your socket on the 1 1/16 nut with a 1/2 long ratchet on it the ratchet will stay at 90 degrees or drift very slowly down. To much tension will damage the bearing. I use an impact but the crush washer maintains the tension you tighten until it collapses. These axles wear and either replace the axle or buy a repair bearing the seal is built into the bearing so it wears on another part of the axle. If it works it will save you a few dollars. If I remember correctly you have to pull the rear end cover and remove a horse shoe clip to pull out the axle. These are common problems and happen on older vehicles.

rsim
10-03-2011, 11:38 PM
Hi
thanks I think I understand pre load now.
After torquing 1 and 1/6 nut to say 130 ft lbs The ratchet is then used to see if it is too tight.
I used a file and did a scratch test on both axles. the one that the bearings grooved was softer then the other one
see this
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rhandwor
10-04-2011, 05:27 AM
Hi
thanks I think I understand pre load now.
After torquing 1 and 1/6 nut to say 130 ft lbs The ratchet is then used to see if it is too tight.
I used a file and did a scratch test on both axles. the one that the bearings grooved was softer then the other one
see this
<object width="560" height="315"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/-2Pfy_GJIv8?version=3&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/-2Pfy_GJIv8?version=3&amp;hl=en_US"; type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="560" height="315" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object>
I always did the test when the rear end was installed with the tires on the vehicle.
If everything is apart you can install a new crush washer spacer if you want to just tighten until you feel it collapse and stop. The Ford dealer sells them.

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