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2001 PSD wont open


09stang
05-24-2011, 06:03 PM
I have a 2001 Windstar, 116k miles, and the drivers power door wont open. I am new here and have read quite alot of the previous posts on how to problem solve this issue.
My issue: The door will not open no matter what i do. I have tried the reset procedure and checked, and rechecked everything. The lock seems jammed to me, preventing the actuator from working. I have the inner door skin off, and cannot move the lock rod by hand up or down (but i did manage to bend it trying). I can hear/see the actuator moving when press the button, but nothing happens. I pulled the fuse, and nothing will move.
I think my next step is to remove the actuator. Can this be done with the door closed? OR, is my next step something else?
Thanks in advance.
Sign me: :banghead:

olopezm
05-24-2011, 06:16 PM
Have you checked the fuel filler door? There is a sensor there which, in case is misaligned or damaged, will prevent the door from opening.

Oscar.

09stang
05-24-2011, 06:47 PM
Thanks for your prompt response. Am trying to isolate that now.

09stang
05-24-2011, 06:52 PM
I found a diagram/service repair module(from ford) of the system that may help someone
www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/training/cdatabase/files/30G20F0.pdfeone (http://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/training/cdatabase/files/30G20F0.pdfeone)

olopezm
05-24-2011, 07:15 PM
You're welcome, please let me know if it works of if you need anything else.

By the way, WELCOME TO THE FORUM!! didn't notice you were new until just now ;)

Oscar.

09stang
05-24-2011, 07:25 PM
Thanks Oscar,
Here's what happened now. I cleaned the outside of the sensor, made sure the fuel door was closed tight (it feels like it is). I played with the lock some, and the door opened. I cleaned the pillar contacts, cleaned the tract, made sure their was no crud in tract, and cleaned the door contacts. I pushed to button and the door closed. I will NOT open again...lol. I think the problem is with the power lock. It will not move up or down, as the passenger door does. I think that is my next step, unless somebody knows better.
Thanks again.

olopezm
05-24-2011, 07:33 PM
I see, I know there are some problems with the front lock actuators (actually I have a weak one on my drivers door) but didn't know about rear ones failing.

My advise for you is to clean it's moving parts with some wd-40 and then washing it off with some silicone spray to prevent any crud from developing because of wd40 and dirt. You can also try and use some electrical contact cleaner to make sure you have good continuity.

Oscar.

09stang
05-27-2011, 12:02 PM
Follow up question:
Called local Ford dealer, they have a actuator for $72.00, called Autozone, they have one for $102. It appears their are different manufactures of the device (both OEM ??). I am looking to install the best quality part. Is one better than other, or am I over thinking this abit?
Also, is their a site I can look up fiche pictures and part numbers? The dealer would not give me a part number "management does not let us do that".
Thanks in advance, and I will post the outcome.

olopezm
05-27-2011, 07:47 PM
The part number for the actuator on both sliding doors is:

2F2Z-16218A42-BA

first and last series can differ, the center numbers must be the same. I don't have any access to pictures, but you might be able to google it and see if something comes out. My manual lists the actuator as $79 dlls each side so I'm thinking the 72 dlls for the motorcraft one is a good price.

I don't know if the autozone one has a lifetime warranty (they don't offer it here in Mexico) if it does that might justify the cost, still I don't think I would buy it. Even in the worst of cases you could get another 10 years with the motorcraft one.

Oscar.

wiswind
05-27-2011, 08:08 PM
I have not found a good online parts detail.
I used to buy from Millenium FORD in Seattle, but they went out of business.
Their parts guy was known at "Parts Guy Ed" and had a reputation as being a "go to" guy on some forums.
I looked the power door actuator up on several online FORD part websites.....came up with the same price on all of them.

List price of $73.03, Your price of $52.58

On all the FORD sites that I looked at.....you look under "Electrical"...."Body Electrical" ...."Sliding Door"....."Lock Actuator"


I have it looked up on parts guy Ed's site here http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214072&chapter=&sectionids=3,2413&groupid=10005&subgroupid=20126&componentid=60963&make=10&model=Windstar&year=2001&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0

His home page http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214072

Also, I have located a lot of good parts at www.rockauto.com
I looked up the 2001 Ford Windstar, "Body Exterior", "Door Lock Solenoid" and they list all the lock solenoids for all the doors.
Right now (subject to change in the future) the last 2 in the list are the ones for the side sliding doors.

Another source for information would be with a online subscription to www.AlldataDIY.com

I have no personal connection to any of these 3 websites other than having bought from Rockauto having had a subscription with alldata.

09stang
06-01-2011, 09:54 AM
Update: Purchased new lock actuator from dealership. Removed door skin, partial removal of assembly, unplugged (and broke tabs) for locking actuator. I was then able to move the actuator to unlock, and open the door for better access, and complete the disassembly. Changed actuator and plugged it in. NO movement at all....Rechecked plug, rechecked fuses (all of them, just in case). It seems i dont have power to the actuator now. Skinned some covering from the wires (orange and green), and measured with meter...nothing. Seems to me i have a problem between fuse block and plug, or the (new) actuator is bad. I have spent about 2 hours this beautiful morning trying to isolate this..
Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated....
Thanks in advance
Another frustrated DIY'er

09stang
06-01-2011, 11:51 AM
Update 2: I was unable to isolate power problem, or anything else. I put everything back together after cleaning and using WD 40, and pushed the pillar button for laughs. It worked!! ONCE:banghead: It now has the same problem that I started with. The locking actuator is jammed, and wont release even if unplugged, and the door will not open.
This got me so frustrated i gave it a good kick and walked away for a while.
SO....am back to my love/hate relationship with this vehicle.:1zhelp:

olopezm
06-01-2011, 07:28 PM
I'm sorry to hear it didn't work.

I don't think you'll be able to see any voltage with a regular multimeter, you'll need a high-end model or an oscilloscope since the activation pulse is quite short. And the door lock switches are independent from the actuators, I mean there is no direct relation between them. When you press the switch, the signal will go to an electronics module (Front electronics module for the drivers door and Rear Electronics Module for the rest of the locks) and these moduls then activate the power to the actuators.

Are to plungers at the door clean? I know these are a common problem when they get dirty/rusty and cause the door ajar alarm to go off all time. It might still be the case with actuator; needless to say everything inside the door is powered only when the door is shut.

Another user recently posted problems with the REM (doors would not unlock, reserve sensors would work erratically; you can see his post HERE (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1063809)).

I don't think the connecting rods are bent, aren't they?

Oscar.

09stang
06-01-2011, 07:58 PM
Thanks Oscar, just realized your correct. My meter would not detect the pulses. No rods are bent, as everything moves smoothly. I cleaned the contact points on both sides.
As far as the REM acting up..not sure. The back up sensors have not worked in years, but everything else is fine. This may be the next thing I check into. Would the REM just affect one door lock?

olopezm
06-01-2011, 08:25 PM
I can't be sure about it but I can tell (from fulcrums thread) it can affect only one sliding door so I guess affecting only one lock could be possible as well.

The reverse sensors not working could be an indicator of REM failure. If you feel like it and can afford it you could try replacing it, just make sure you get either a 2000 or 2001 model (thanks to fulcrum for this info) any others won't work and also make sure it comes from another windstar witht he same trim level as yours or you might get problems with the PSD's..

Another question is the indicator light on the Parking assist deactivation button lighting up for a few seconds when you start the engine?

Oscar.

09stang
06-01-2011, 08:40 PM
Another question is the indicator light on the Parking assist deactivation button lighting up for a few seconds when you start the engine?


Yes, and it stays on. I am going to order and replace the REM as my next step.
Thanks again Oscar...

olopezm
06-01-2011, 09:09 PM
You're welcome my friend ;),

the light staying on indicates there is a fault with the Parking Aid Module, have you checked all fuses to make sure they are all OK?

I think the reversing lamps must be OK too, check relays at the engine compartment too.

I would try to get the REM from a junkyard, the other user who replaced it got a quoted price of 360 dlls for the module and got one from the yard for 35 bucks...

Oscar.

09stang
06-05-2011, 08:33 AM
I am ordering a used REM from ebay. Will post again when installed.

09stang
06-21-2011, 09:47 AM
I have to put this project on the back burner for now. Moving from MI to SC.

olopezm
06-21-2011, 03:58 PM
Good luck with it!, hope everything goes well.

Oscar.

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