replace rear end pinion seal and still leaks rear end fluid

2003 chevy s 10 4 door 4 X 4 VORTEC 4.3 LITER MOTOR 160 K MY PINION SEAL STARTED LEAKING A WHILE AGO I added fluid to the rear end to make sure it didn't run dry I know for a fact it never did I pop the old pinion seal out put the new 1 in and it leaks worse than before the seal did not look like it was a keyed fit the seal just seal had to, be pushed in evenly IDK. Please help I have no wheels or transportation

2003 chevy s 10 4 door 4 X 4 VORTEC 4.3 LITER MOTOR 160 K MY PINION SEAL STARTED LEAKING A WHILE AGO I added fluid to the rear end to make sure it didn't run dry I know for a fact it never did I pop the old pinion seal out put the new 1 in and it leaks worse than before the seal did not look like it was a keyed fit the seal just seal had to, be pushed in evenly IDK. Please help I have no wheels or transportation
Many things can cause a new seal to leak.
Like.
Did you get the wrong seal?
Did you match it with old one?
Did you check and see if it fit good on yoke?
Did it fit tight into rear end housing?
Did the sealm spring popm off when youn installe it?
Did the yoke have a bad grove cut into it?
If so they make a ready sleave repair kit for that problem.
Did you check your rear end vent valve?

I screwed it up I didn't fit it in tight to the housing there is a little space an eighth of an inch about can I pull the yolk out and finish tapping in the seal or for 9 dollars I probably should just get a new seal and do it right problem is that seal has a quarter of an inch channel around the seal that channel presses into the rear end housing I use something in the channel to press the seal in I wonder if I should use use a flat board instead

Yes a new seal may be best.
The seal needs to be pressed in even and all of the way in.
They make seal drivers for installing them.
Check your parts place for a loaner.
Good luck and check other stuff in my first post.

I'm going to Put a new seal in But just want to know How much play Should be in the pinion shaft (threads part sticking out front of rear end ) when I tighten down the big nut that holds yoke in and could it be just the bearings on the pinion shaft. And not the other two for the carrier basically what I'm saying is do you ever see just the 2 bearings on the pinion shaft go or usually if those bearings go the whole rear is gone meaning all the bearings.in the rear. Thank you so much ......

I was trying to ask When you tighten the nut down on the pinion shaft how much play should there be there if I could wiggle it n 8 th of an inch is that to much play

If you are saying 1/8 inch play 90 degrees to the shaft then yes that is a hell of a lot of movement

I was trying to ask When you tighten the nut down on the pinion shaft how much play should there be there if I could wiggle it n 8 th of an inch is that to much play

No play or wiggle or rough feel.:lol::nono:

The pinion bearings should have a preloaded on them when the nut is tighten down to the proper torque.
No side ways play and preloaded to specs of so many in./ft. lbs to turn yoke.
Yoke should turn to preloaded and no roubh feel when turning.
Preload is set by crush sleeve or skims depending on what rear end setup you have.
Always drive and check rear end for noise first.
Problems within bearing can be detected by driving and listen for what type of noise you have .

http://www.differentials.com/install.html

Before removing the yoke for seal replacement the preload and bearing feel should be checked.
After yoke is removed you can remove front bearing cone and inspect/look at front bearing for for bad spots.

Tightening the pinion nut to specs is important. If you over tighten you risk collapsing the crush sleeve too much. which will give you play & pinion movement back & forth.
Do you have any noises coming from the rear end now??