1995 Blazer flooding bank 2

can anyone help me i have a 95 blazer where cylinders 2,4,6 do not fire but they do have spark and fuel is it the spider assembly or could it be out of time

can anyone help me i have a 95 blazer where cylinders 2,4,6 do not fire but they do have spark and fuel is it the spider assembly or could it be out of time

Welcome to AF.
For help.
With a problem on yours it is best to find the New thread/post button and start your own thread.

Give all info on it.
Engine code and mileage and what you have done or not done so far.
What is your fuel pressure reading?
Will it run on the road?
Missing on the road?
What is the engine vacuum reading?
Have you checked for a stuck open EGR valve?

Have you checked compression and dist cap and rotor?
Is the plugs wet or dry on the firing ends?

Any codes or check engine light?

well the plugs are wet and it is the W code engine i do not have a fuel pressure or a vacuum pressure gage but it has fuel and spark the it will drive down the road but it will run rough and have no power till it gets to about 3rd gear and then you feel more power the engine light is on but i have not seen any code when i cycle the key. it is flooding the passenger side bank of the engine

well the plugs are wet and it is the W code engine i do not have a fuel pressure or a vacuum pressure gage but it has fuel and spark the it will drive down the road but it will run rough and have no power till it gets to about 3rd gear and then you feel more power the engine light is on but i have not seen any code when i cycle the key. it is flooding the passenger side bank of the engine

OBD11 0r 94-1/2 t0 95
If check engine light is on you need to get codes with a scanner and post back code no.
And then clear codes and see if Any comes back.
If older OBD 1 you can jump pin A & B and read light flashes for codes.
Just fuel or close in horse shoes does not count for much.
GM 4.3 has to have full and pressure up to specs to run right.
We need all fuel pressure readings and engine vacuum readings.
If rough/missing on idle and runs good higher speeds on road.
You may have a stuck open egr valve or a bad vacuum leak
Check egr valve for stuck open or carbon ball under plunger and PCV and all over intake and all lines for vacuum leaks.

Have you done any work on it or replaced any parts?
Got good ac delco plugs and parts on it.

As in plugs are all wet is that all of them wet oily or gas wet or just on even bank 2-4-6?
IS THERE ANY COOLANT IN ENGINE OIL OR DOES IT SMELL LIKE GAS AND REAL THIN?

Sounds like your fuel pressure regulator is leaking into the plenum.

Sounds like your fuel pressure regulator is leaking into the plenum.


That or the plastic fuel lines in the plenim are leaking on one side. They are notorious for leaking in there, running like crap, and setting the engine code. First thing I'd do is open up that plenim, very easy to do, not much to take off.

if it is the spider assembly would it have to be replaced or is there a war to repair it i have kinda a tight budget

if it is the spider assembly would it have to be replaced or is there a war to repair it i have kinda a tight budget

If it's the FPR, fuel pressure regulator, that's not an expensive part to buy new. If it's the spider assembly, that costs a little bit of $$, so I'd try a junkyard part.

if it is the spider assembly would it have to be replaced or is there a war to repair it i have kinda a tight budget

Tight budget is a good reason to do the proper testing first to keep from just throwing parts at it.

Rent or borrow or buy a fuel pressure testing gauge.


A Fast leak down on fuel presure is a good sign of the nut kit fuel lines or pressure regulator is leaking.

If you pull upper intake off prime up fuel pressure to full pressure and look for gas leakage in there.

I agree with MT2500, remove the plenum, let the pump prime the system and watch for leaks. My guess is you'll find a leaky fuel pressure regulator. If the lines leak, cylinders 1, 3, & 5 will flood. If there's a fuel leak inside the plenum, the oil will be contaminated with fuel. After the repair, make sure you change the oil & filter. This thread might help you: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=503238

uhh yes this sounds very probable but can the FPR cause cylinder #2,4,and 6 to missfire i noticed you said 1,3,5 does it really matter which bank floods or can a bad regulator cause either bank to flood

uhh yes this sounds very probable but can the FPR cause cylinder #2,4,and 6 to missfire i noticed you said 1,3,5 does it really matter which bank floods or can a bad regulator cause either bank to flood
The FPR floods 2, 4, & 6. The internal fuel lines (AKA "Nut Kit") flood 1, 3, & 5.

okay i took the plenum off and primed the system to find a low pressure dumping of fuel where the FPR is located but i did notice as well that the drivers side bank that is not defective is covered with a thick black sut and the defective side is clean i can get pictures later on today to show but the most obveious problem is the FPR

okay i took the plenum off and primed the system to find a low pressure dumping of fuel where the FPR is located but i did notice as well that the drivers side bank that is not defective is covered with a thick black sut and the defective side is clean i can get pictures later on today to show but the most obveious problem is the FPR

The leak will clean thy area where it is leaking.
Fix the leak and you should be good to go.

The leak will clean thy area where it is leaking.
Fix the leak and you should be good to go.
it is definatly leaking from the FPR and has washed the passenger side im going to replace the FPR and see how it works thanks

well i replaced the fuel pressure regulator only to find that there is a major crack on the spider unit where the FPR retainer ring screws onto i no this sounds real cheap but would JB weld hold that together or am i screwed into buying a new spider

JB weld on internal fuel parts, absolutely not. This is an area you want to fix it properly, insuring no leaks. Then drop that oil asap. It will be fuel contaminated and wash down the bearings/lower engine. You can pick up another spider assembly from any pick and pull yard for cheap. I'd expect to pay $10-20 dollars for it. Whether it's used or new, you have to get the spider/FPR under the plenim clean, dry and holding pressure steadily. Any quick fixes, like JB Weld, you're wasting your time. Good luck.

A little late to mention, but here was my experience with that same engine- just on an Astro van

Under Plenum leak documented (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=890754&highlight=documented)