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2000 Windstar linkage rods egr ports

04-07-2011, 11:53 AM
First time poster here, but used this site a lot fr other repair advice. My question is, my IMRC rod appears to be not attached at all. If you are in front of the engine it is the one further back. Can I do this without ripping the car apart? I just had a lower manifold put in due to a crack and trying to solve my CEL issue 171, 174. I asked the mechanic to fix the rod but i guess he forgot. I know he repaired the gaskets and new iso bolts. I dont realyy know where those are though.

So can i get to egr ports and fix rod without being near what my mechanic fixed, i dont want to replace all those gaskets again.

04-07-2011, 12:41 PM
Yes, you can re-attach IMCR actuator rods without much dis-assembly. They are kinda on the "outside" of the engine ... just above the water pump. Not saying its not "close work". I advise loosening the actuator mounting (3) bolts ... to find a central location for the actuator... so the plastic clips won't be broken straight-away. In fact, if you use a pair of pliers and do a bit of re-shaping you can have it so that the rods and retainer clips are not under stress when the acutuator takes either the opened or closed position. That's the whole problem ... the actuator moves more than it needs too with the original link shapes. The links and retainers are bound tight in either position. A bit of re-shaping will solve this. My current plastic clips have been with me for over 100k miles.

Yes, you can remove the plastic intake "upper" ... 14, or so, screws .... and have access to the EGR jets ...without upsetting the isolator bolts.

04-07-2011, 12:47 PM
so the upper wont expose the lower manifold at all? if i open the upper there is no work that i must do before closing it, gaskets etc.

04-07-2011, 12:59 PM
The upper's gaskets are pre-formed rubbery things that can be reused several times. The plastic "upper" is attached to a plastic "spacer" ... which, in turn, sits on the aluminum "lower" intake piece. The spacer has air flow passages in it that allow access to the EGR jets, which are in the lower. Not a big deal ... just don't overtighten those 14 screws .... 7 foot lbs, IIRC.

If one or more of the screws doesn't loosen properly ... now that can be an issue!

.... and don't drop any crap or tools down into the engine. That can be a real show-stopper!

04-07-2011, 01:33 PM
Having done this before: If you're going to pull off the upper manifold cover, it's far easier to access everything if you remove the cowl. Yes, it's an extra step - but it really doesn't take that long, and makes everything else you do that much easier.

Of course, while the cowl is off, the rear spark plugs are trivial to replace...

04-07-2011, 01:42 PM
Yeah, I agree with removing the cowling.

BTW, my cowling has been removed/installed so many times, it was getting a bit dog-eared. I renewed it this spring .... good for another 12 years now!

04-07-2011, 02:06 PM
how do i know how tight i am tightening the bolts when i reassemble. also unrealted i seem to be hearing a soft bass interval sound when the car is in park, seems to happen if you rev the engine a tad then stop. very soft bass boom boom thump sound about 1 second apart

04-07-2011, 02:11 PM
I use a 1/4" torque wrench.

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