Cobra 427 refurbish

Sometime ago a friend made a revell shelby cobra. The kit was abandoned to me, so I asked him if I could refurbish it as a "relax" model.
So this will be an easy build/refurbish. Just have to remake the missing parts (windshield mostly) and repaint in my fav cobra combo colors (classic metallic blue and white stripes).
The box tyres looks way smaller, so I prefer use Fujimi tyres and repaint also the rims.
First of all we have to dismantle the old build...

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to have the right ispiration on the finishing of the cobra I had a look at cobracountry website, where too many of these beauties are for sale.For me in old Italy is increbible to think these monsters cost as a new 3 serie sedan bmw...

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I started to hole the exhaust, even if probbaly forward I will replace theme with bigger ones

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then is time to look at engine.Original 427 provided by revell is big one, I was thinking if maybe replace with an unit coming from a Nascar Ford T-bird, even if it looks way smaller than the 427.

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also tyres are not as I want. revell used squared tyres, while I prefer the round ones done by fujimi.The rim hole is nearly identicalhttp://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/12/12.JPG?et=evUPuWkar%2B4NEVQ4Y4h1wg&nmid=431598078

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fujimi wheels..

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Paolo,
This is my 1:1. If you'd like photos of details, let me know. Hint; work hard on getting the windshield frame thin enough and shaped right-nobody does.
Cheers:
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/P9030061MMedium.jpg
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/P7020009Medium.jpg

wow..I definitely LOVE your car ! Superformance?

wow..I definitely LOVE your car ! Superformance?

Self-built ERA. If you need detail shots, tell me.

yes yes. Saw an ERA in italy (they sell a 1986 car for 100.000 euro...with Ford mustang fastback 1965 documents).The quality is fantastic.
yes please...post more pics of your car. I will finish it in a lighter metallic blue (think is what is called indigo Blue).
Definitely love too much the mighty Cobra.

OK- here are two views of the engine compartment with my other valve covers on. You can see the hoses, wiring and linkages from above.Your model may only have one carburetor but the lines will be very similar and all the finishes you should try for. Note also the footboxes are off white fiberglass, not aluminum. I will post other areas soon.
Ciao:cool:
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/P9030052Medium.jpg

http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/P9030049Medium.jpg

:moppie::moppie:want want waaant !!

This definitely convinces me in use the 427 instead of nascar engine.
I note u also changed head covers.
How did u fix the problem of the high torque of the 427?.I know in gt40s they use some rebuild of the T44 gear shifter, but thats is a transaxle, so surely in Cobras it will be different.
too nice car btw..keep on posting ref pics.Grazie :biggrin:

:moppie::moppie:want want waaant !!
How did u fix the problem of the high torque of the 427?.I know in gt40s they use some rebuild of the T44 gear shifter, but thats is a transaxle, so surely in Cobras it will be different.

High torque is not a problem-it makes 550 lb.ft.. The Toploader transmission and Jaguar differential are modified to handle such power. Just the tires get a beating from it.:evillol: GT40 MK II's made about 500 lb.ft. in LeMans trim.
More coming from me but you must post your progress.
Ciao,

Corrct, and here I go then :smokin:

Strip off operations going on. The chassis was clean and time is up to start work a little on the body.
As Merlin pointed out, the windshield in all Cobra models I've seen is quite big and out of size.In my model I had to scratchbuild it from 0, cause the Car I stripped had no windshield at all,I've never seen whats provided in the box, but I suspect the revell monogram is not so accurate in such detail, that in every picture is always so thin.
Also the lateral air intakes where open. I will replace theme forward.

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the only thing I really dont like is the plastic used by revell. It is probably recycled.

OK, first the windshield. The installed angle is 47 degrees-it lays down quite a bit. Yours is too upright.
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/P7280007Medium.jpg
Also, it curves across the rounded cowl-the bottom and top frames are not straight as you have it. The top frame has a channel in it where the soft top would attach. The bottom frame has a black rubber gasket at the bottom edge which seals out water and draft. See here:
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/P7020023Medium.jpg
Also the glass has a soft green tint. This is an original Cobra windshield as are the seats and many visible parts:
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/P7020024Medium.jpg

the info about angle is great.Is possible I've seen some replicas with wrong angle on windshield? Consider my part is soft styrene, and will (try) fix in the correct position only when the model will be finished.
Also interesting the note of the light green tint...

More, I've also noted some cars have the 2 lateral glasses and the 2 sun protection on the top of the frame (as the SPF in my pic).Interesting your nice one does not have both of theme, will decide later what to do on my little one.

Thank u so much for the infos, they are really too important and interesting for me.

More help here. This is a view of the windshield and hoop scoop. You can see the windshield's shape, color, gasket and angle best here. The hood scoop is always too thick and shaped wrong. The scoop is 22" long, 1 5/8" high at the opening and 14" wide at the base. It is fiberglass and attached with 29, 3/16" rivets. There are 16 rivets on the hood leading edge and part way up the sides. Original Comp cars were done exactly this way. I would make the scoop from lead foil or carve a master and cast one. Keep it thin and flair the sides out slightly:
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/P5260016CMedium.jpg
Close up of the shape at the back edge and the rivets. If this is more detail than you care for, tell me and I'll stop. It's a pleasure to help a great modeler and Cobra and GT lover. Ask for what you want next like brakes and suspension.
Ciao
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/F2Medium.jpg

wow! that should be (for me) a relaxing model...but now looking at all these datails...I really dunno :D
More I look pics, more I see things to add.

will see what to do with hood scoop, cause the body is already painted with white stripes (but I can always correct it!)

More, I've also noted some cars have the 2 lateral glasses and the 2 sun protection on the top of the frame (as the SPF in my pic).Interesting your nice one does not have both of theme, will decide later what to do on my little one.
.
Paolo,
You are referring to sunvisors and wind wings to deflect the draft. Those were use ONLY on 'street' cars. Mine is a Competition version which did not have them. The only deviation from this is the glovebox in my dashboard-Comps did not have them.
SPF's have many deviations from originals-they are 'stand-off scale' Cobras and are generally bought by those who do not know how to build. The most accurate Cobra replicas are Kirkhams, Shelbys and ERA's. Hawks in the UK are very well done also.
Try to study reference books on Cobras so you can make choices which way you want to build.

also Gardner Douglas seems great Cobras.I think some of the nicest ones done in Uk.
What are the main differences between british and american cobras?Some also have 17" wheels.

I had the opportuninty to be passenger in a Contemporary classic Cobra (with 427). Also this one seems really nice car for me.

Consider anyway down here too many are Cobra lovers, cause it is definitely too rare and sexy car.
Also a Pilgrim (dont puke Merlin,I see u know a LOT about cobras, talk of sumo can be danger, I know....LOL...) is a nice car here.

also Gardner Douglas seems great Cobras.I think some of the nicest ones done in Uk.
What are the main differences between british and american cobras?Some also have 17" wheels.

Yes Gardners are generally nicely built. The major difference is that UK cars are all right-hand drive and many have donor-car suspensions and brakes from British sports cars or sedans. Few are built with race equipment. Owners often choose 17" wheels to get modern performance tires offered in that size. The correct 15" size limits tire choices but Avon and my GoodYear race rain tires are best for track use.
The nice thing about replicas is that you can build them to your preference without destroying the value of an original car.
By the way Paolo, where are you located? I'm bad on geography...

Located in Milano, very near to Monza track !

Located in Milano, very near to Monza track !
Now that I know! You are very fortunate. Bet you can hear them on an F1 weekend?

well, not SO near to the Track. I live near the city of Monza.This is a very nice town, with a nice historical- medieval center,and very cool central part and nightlife.

I use to go very often to the race track to see nearly every kind of races.It is one of the few fast ones surviving around. 6 kmts track and 1200 meters of main straight.
Superbike race seems a distruction derby, and I dont like to see so many pilots injuried as always happens with bike there.

Sometimes it happens I also can tape some terrific crash as Ortelli did 2 yrs ago at 1000 kmts of Monza (last edition,then stopped....).
Sorry for my trampling hands, but I was nearly sure he die in the crash, cause incredibly fast done and too similar to gilles villeneuve one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96h2w-TsgOY

Amazing video and well done. Also amazing he survived.

-So do you think the changes to the Cobra's windshield and scoop can be achieved with the photos and data provided? The next big areas for improvement are the pipes and engine. They never get the engine's components shapes right...

ahaha..Yes Merlin, thank u a LOT for the pics.
I will fix asap also the exhaust pipes. I holed theme , but seems way smaller than the ones I like (yours ones) and surely will rebuild theme bigger.

Paolo,
Here are two additional details that may help you.
The first is a photo taken while waiting in line at the drag strip to race. I had removed the sidepipes and bolted on just a short length of collector pipe which adds horsepower because there is no muffler. This may be a simpler thing for you to scratchbuild and it is definitely a real part. My pipes have a 3 bolt flange which is how I can switch them and is easy for you to build, if you want to build an open header version.
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/14Largec.jpg
The second photo shows more engine detail as I was reassembling it after changing cylinder heads. The hood is removed and the distributor is not in place yet. You can see the aluminum water pump and pulleys more easily here. The brass tank is the coolant overflow tank and there is no fan-that's against the radiator on Cobras. Fan belt not on yet. Hope this is helpful.
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/P3160477Medium.jpg

I go on cleaning the old bodyshell.
Had to place some pasticard strip under the engine deck, cause it was too low,and not at the correct provile with the rest of the frontal.Time is up for paint..

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Looking at real pics, I also note the roll cage provided by Revell is wrong in shape, so have to rebulild also this.

and now painting time.
I also add the holes for the canvas in the rear part of the cockpit.
This is the actual status of my model for now.

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Wow! It is very clean masking and painting job! I like that colour scheme too.

for me blue/ white stripes is the REAL american scheme for such racers ;)

Wow, fantastic paintjob. This will be a real beauty when you're done. The stripes are very crisp too, great job.


Had to place some pasticard strip under the engine deck, cause it was too low,and not at the correct provile with the rest of the frontal.


Can you explain this part of your build, I'm not sure I see where you made this modification. Keep up the great work.

Paolo,
LOOK:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Ktayh4vpC_U

Paolo,
What happened to you? Did you quit?

nono Merlin, just going on little slowly.
Finishing the wheels (copying your ones..) , soon will post pics but need more material for a serious update.
Note all the cars I make are done mostly for my fun cause I am mainly a professional builder for airplanes and military vehicles (they pay me..the works payd come first, u know..)

Btw here is summer and I am a sailor...so modelling is little late in these days ;)

OK-good.:)

little update.
I've finished the wheels.Added also the little metal wire used to fix the bolt to the rims.I love such details in gt40's wheels and in Cobra.
Another detail to be updated is the exhaust area.In almost all pics I've seen they are quite bigger than revell ones, so I just took a curved part of sprue and holed with a conical drill.The result is nice and very aggressive.Think I will paint the exhausts in flat black.

The pins for the canvas are done in metal,and the metal brust covering on the rear wheel arch is done with bare metal foil.

Happy easter for now guys. :smokin:

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some gauges in position:

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Paolo.
Excellent progress. The pipes and the windshield frame look much better and scale size and thickness.
The wheels and tires look beautiful also. Since you went to the trouble to make the safety wires, to be absolutely accurate, position the wheels with the wires pointing to the front on the right side and to the rear on the left. Also, you can easily add the stencil lines to the sprayed-on letters. The O's, D, A, and R have the black spaces from the spray-on stencil. Here's mine:
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/SS.jpg

Always thank u for the infos Merlin ;)
Btw do the pipes have some support on the side of the car? I mean..looking from upside at door point there are some pins fixing the exhaust to the body?

The wheels in pics are little out of focus.I was lucky the decal letters are already divided in A, O and D ;) they come from formula 1 tyre decals.

Btw do the pipes have some support on the side of the car? I mean..looking from upside at door point there are some pins fixing the exhaust to the body?

Not pins Paolo, they are attached with a flat steel tab welded on one end to the pipe about where the sprue was clipped on yours. The inner end of the tab or bracket has a through bolt holding it to a dense rubber strap hanging down from the chassis outrigger and allows small pipe movement from engine vibration. See below and also seen here is the 3 bolt flange with joins the headers to the sidepipe-an easy detail to do:
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/PA300035.jpg

exhaust nearly done now,the size is convincing me much more than before.Will keep theme flat black as in Merlin car.
Also I noted Revell made a strange roll bar that I dont like. Also this looks to me thin and in wrong shape, maybe they copyed something used over original cobras. Doh, dunno really, so I rebuild it using a contrail plastic tube with a metal wire inside to curve it.

In the Dashboard I also add the small glovebox,missing in revell kit too.

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this is ugly revell rollbar:
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letters in stencils divided, as sayd before

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Paolo,
The glovebox was only used in street cars-not competition cars. Decide which you're building.
Look again at my sidepipe picture-there is a 10" long collector behind the 4 pipes before they enter the muffler.

LOL, u right, suspect I am building my very personal replica (glovebox is cool..will be lovely to palce also carrol shelby signature over that,but dont have the decal).

On the side pipe...I dunno how to make the junction between collector and muffler....have to think something...humm:shakehead

On the side pipe...I dunno how to make the junction between collector and muffler....have to think something...humm:shakehead
First shorten the muffler section by 10 scale inches. Then add filler to the end of the 4 pipes merging into a tube the same diameter as your outlet pieces.
Look at my pipe picture and see that the 4 are welded to the collector section-that's how and where you add filler and smooth.
That's why I'm posting all these pics of my car-to make your life easier!:)

How cant I listen to my nut friend (now I already consider u my friend, Merlin..LOL :icon16:) giving me so FETISH pictures of the lower part of such beauty? Can u see how much fetish is that picture? is really jerking material for carnuts specially looking that the rear tyre..:jerking:
So,I rebuild also the exhaust,makin the same triangle connection point between collector and muffler.

Next point to fix is the 47 degrees windshield.
Looking at the too nice model done by andybmw (that honestly gave me the ispiration to start this refurbish thinking it was EASY and QUICK job, lol...:grinno:) I note he kept such part little higher that the 47th deg, so I am trying now to place mine little lower,even if it is not so easy at all cause too fragile plasticard frame

http://www.scuolaelettrica.it/media/classe1/matematica/geometria/goniometro.jpg

Next point to fix is the 47 degrees windshield.
I note he kept such part little higher that the 47th deg, so I am trying now to place mine little lower,even if it is not so easy at all cause too fragile plasticard frame

Well, I know how to do it but you won't like it...
Like everyone else who builds these, you rushed to put a glammy paint job on, not realizing if accuracy is desired that some cut and fit work is required first. The hood scoop is another example.
In short, it must be built like a real one is. The real one has two vertical frames into which the glass and it's thin frame is screwed. The verticals extend down through slots cut into the body and bolted to the chassis below the dash.
I would: First make a few triangular braces for support which have a 45 or 47 degree angle. These would be attached behind the glass onto the cowl with temporary glue. Then using your current w'shield, mark locations at the outer edges where the slot on the body should be made.
Using a warm knife tip make the slots, thinning the plastic underneath a bit.
Next get some .005" aluminum and cut and shape the vertical brackets so they curl over the top of the glass a bit like my pictures. For a detail you can polish them to a chrome finish and dimple them for the 3 side screws. Attach to your complete w'shield.
Next make 2 small aluminum plates (also with slots so the frames can go through them) which cover the slot holes in the body. Also note there is a flat rubber gasket along the front edge of the w'shield to keep water out and prevent the glass from lifting.
It's a lot of writing but the 2 enlarged photos should explain everything. Sorry, I don't have any better.
I know you wanted a quick build for fun but it seems your standards for accuracy in your other models are as picky as mine-but you do them more skillfully.
I doubt if you'll do this on your 'finished' painted body and I KNOW you won't strip it and correct this serious flaw in all Cobra models. :banghead:
I hope maybe you'll do another one after this and try to use this reference to build for accuracy.:screwy:
Buona Pasqua my friend...:)

.http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/B.jpg
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv151/Aframe/A-1.jpg

eheh,...nep nep,did it my way, so I took 2 card reference trinagles cutted at 47 degrees and fixed little by little the windshield frame with a polyhurethane dime in the correct position.To keep it near to real, I also add another piece of strip styrene in the external side of frame, so all this will be elevated of nearly half millimeter (as creating the flat rubber gasket at its base I've seen in many pics).
the glue is getting dry right now,cant work at all with cyanoacrilate over this point, so just white glue and a lot of water.

Soon pics..now have to finish my chocolate easter egg :D

So,I rebuild also the exhaust,makin the same triangle connection point between collector and muffler....

I note he kept such part little higher that the 47th deg, so I am trying now to place mine little lower,even if it is not so easy at all cause too fragile plasticard frame...
I would recommend using solder wire for the header tubes and aluminum tubing for the pipe. Find all the solder sizes you can (I have 8 different sizes I use) to find one closest to the correct size, round the ends of 4 pieces around 4" long, super-glue 4 together at the rounded ends, use a rat-tailed file to make 4 filets in a 1/2" long aluminum tube making sure the solder fits snug in the tube end, then super-glue the solder bundle to the tubing. Take the next size tubing, cut to the length of the "muffler" chamber, sand the ends to round them, then slide it over the collector. For the end of the pipe take another aluminum tube, bend it 90 degrees, cut to the proper length to go into the "muffler" and have the bend where the outlet will be, cut the outlet bend for proper angle, thin the open end with a #11 hobby knife and super-glue the whole assembly... This will look fantastic!

You need to make the windshield components out of brass, it is much easier to use than plastic for such parts. I use small diameter tubes, sand them laterally until I have a "C" shaped piece (I use a mill but it can be done by hand), then flatten the top and sides to square it off. Shape it appropriately and plate it, use acetate for the windshield shaped with warm water, use 2 cups of future floor polish in a tall cup with the tiniest amount of green food coloring dropped in (add more future to your cup to thin if too much color is added) and dip the windshield in it before final trimming. Let the Future coated windshield dry overnight (put something over it to protect from dust) then use watch crystal glue to install it. Nothing will have the strength and scale realism as a windshield made this way!

does anybody have the link on how to make the carpets effect inside? Think I had bookmarked Alex website, but I cant find it. Would like to prepare the carpets meanwhile other parts come hard.

LOL...but here I still didnt see your Cobras guys... (the models, not the real one :lol:)
Ok, no useful link for carpet effect, but I use to forget I am mostly a military modeller, so that was a basic effect in making rough metal parts over tanks, so the effect is the same (quarz powder over liquid glue),easyer cause in 24th we are in a bigger scale than 35th..

I dont think is a goo idea to make all windshield in brass, first of all cause body paint is already done and the risk to damage such area in points full visible is too high, even more cause I shall work with cyanoacrilate glue, and I hate it.
So will keep my frame,THEN place the clear windshield (dunno why I shall paint it in green clear when it seems light azure to my eyes) and THEN add all the small metal details to simulate the external part of the frame (will use alu from beer car :cheers:).
As I said before, the main problem is to mantain the correct 47th degrees angle, wrong in nearly all models (including my 1/12 kyosho payed as a real car :banghead:).

Another point I dislike in cobra is usually they use black interior over darker exterior, that is the typical mistake in color combos (IMHO and seems for all germany and italy the nicest is dark color outside, light color inside..and vice versa) and so I am thinking to nice combo colors as this

http://www.omniauto.it/awpImages/photogallery/2009/9138/photos650/ac-cobra-mkvi_1.jpg

but I still have to decide, cause almost all ref pics I have are american cars.
and cause :useless: lets add some then..
new bigger roll bar:
http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/82/SDC15934.JPG?et=HN8YaAdqT8mY58xeKjFkZg&nmid=431598078
new exhaust (even if many british cobra have not separated ones):
http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/84/SDC15947.JPG?et=%2CamhE2vYhTSSSRHyQynSFQ&nmid=431598078

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/86/SDC15951.JPG?et=zJ33wiMQqVhU4sl5UiegUg&nmid=431598078

alclad2 over frame:
http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/87/SDC15952.JPG?et=uOHXc2nidXM8%2CrhfvgRqYw&nmid=431598078

roll bar in position:
http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/89/SDC15957.JPG?et=LBNWF9lKSNESJ9un%2BPHoEw&nmid=431598078

legendary 47th degrees dime:
http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/90/SDC15958.JPG?et=t7Fw9oPHg84SKoZ4F%2CBXxQ&nmid=431598078

and in place.. :icon16:
http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/91/SDC15959.JPG?et=%2BRZ0L6kF0jqxyT%2CIokELfA&nmid=431598078

getting dry:
http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/92/SDC15960.JPG?et=jROD3vjIOUNhbRPE7eGSEw&nmid=431598078

test fit for new exhaust:
http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/94/SDC15963.JPG?et=yPqtvic2O09hRxwDL%2BIfXQ&nmid=431598078

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/96/SDC15967.JPG?et=Xergg6USFGChubH%2C%2BLsxGw&nmid=431598078

Paolo,
The collector diameter is too small. It should be the same diameter as the end piece with the opening. Look again at my picture.

is of the same diameter of the 4 in 1 tubes arriving from engine. If I made it bigger, also all other part have to big bigger.

does anybody have the link on how to make the carpets effect inside? Think I had bookmarked Alex website, but I cant find it. Would like to prepare the carpets meanwhile other parts come hard.

You're probably looking for this page:

http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Floormats/fmats.htm


I used that technique to make carpets in my Lamborghini Miura model. It's easy, and the result is superb. You can check it out here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=905515&highlight=miura


Keep up with great work mate!

.......... giving me so FETISH pictures of the lower part of such beauty?

Haha, very appropiate word you used there. I will have to remember it. This project is turning into a real beauty. I like all the attention you are putting into the details. Very nice job on the windshield frame also. Keep up the good work.

I dont think is a goo idea to make all windshield in brass, first of all cause body paint is already done and the risk to damage such area in points full visible is too high, even more cause I shall work with cyanoacrilate glue, and I hate it.
http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/94/SDC15963.JPG?et=yPqtvic2O09hRxwDL%2BIfXQ&nmid=431598078
From this angle it looks like you may have a hard time getting the windshield in as the bottom of your frame is straight and the top is curved. Looks great though, you really made that frame look great!

@matic:..yes, thank u,was exactly Alex masterpieces page I was looking for, always too interesting.

@quad: :D yes..Merlin car is too cool (think he wellknows it btw) ,he is too helpful in this build.That shot of the under part of the car is a real fury!

@murco : yes, was a challenge and once again too useful info for the right degrees. Withous the info I would be wrong at 100%

@Merlin:.. Man, exhaust rebuild again ;) think this time they are ok.I deleted the connection triangle.
Pictures coming soon as usual.

made a little progress finishing the cockpit.As said i prefer dark external color and lighter cockpit. Made also a wood effect on dashboard, copying a british gardner douglas cobra cockpit I saw for sale online.

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/100/SDC15991.JPG?et=l2k2Vz77g5uI4mziDiwhcw&nmid=431598078

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/99/SDC15989.JPG?et=%2CP8AmC%2BfRjV%2Cns88XcW0ww&nmid=431598078

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/101/SDC15992.JPG?et=yrb%2CUw4jLezzSGjTLyQmVA&nmid=431598078

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/104/SDC15998.JPG?et=ZK7BIGhYiLLECViywVg0Tw&nmid=431598078

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/106/SDC16002.JPG?et=gojJI81HOjy1Fze05D9UfA&nmid=431598078

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/109/SDC16006.JPG?et=99V%2C2DZ1sjpM5l71yOXTzw&nmid=431598078

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/111/SDC16008.JPG?et=0xl%2C%2B5eWsVgIR%2CKlLqiB%2CQ&nmid=431598078

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/112/SDC16009.JPG?et=hc9uieMlwoht1G1ALmJPVg&nmid=431598078

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/118/SDC16018.JPG?et=jJn3KhPU78bW%2C456LSeb5w&nmid=431598078

and of course the rebuild exhausts
http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/98/SDC15979.JPG?et=d%2Cuuw6jSdAHUT5bfe%2Bchhg&nmid=431598078

Excellent interior work, the dash actually looks like you used real wood.

yes, just in pics is different than real (also carpets, they are much less crispy than in pics).
I made it with 2 lifecolor brown, one light and one darker for the wood lines, then added a little trasparent orange glossy varnish from Gunze. prefer such way than decals. ;)

test fitting for the wheels. Had to remove an internal palstic ring present in the rims, to make wheels with fujimi tyre fits well in the body.
the setup is convincing me. No more dune buggy style for my cobra.

engine hood sanded and made slimmer. painted in natural alluminium.

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/119/SDC16019.JPG?et=m4kgTgOm65peYgCoil%2CAbQ&nmid=431598078

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/121/SDC16025.JPG?et=a%2Cd%2CqhGNAXFBXmeFI5RSgA&nmid=431598078

real "rolling chassis". would like the 1.1 of this delivered to home door.

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/122/SDC16028.JPG?et=yBRq6Lxpi2H4sOS%2Cx8lWgA&nmid=431598078


http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/123/SDC16029.JPG?et=4ShjU%2Bk6aof64vavT%2CjiFg&nmid=431598078

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/125/SDC16032.JPG?et=IGK7v8%2CEjaPCKsuGovP3DQ&nmid=431598078

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/126/SDC16033.JPG?et=Ad5tT%2C4u0sD7%2CtLgdHwp1Q&nmid=431598078

http://multiply.com/mu/alsoldatino/image/1:soldatino/photos/165/600x600/127/SDC16034.JPG?et=83B9yMTTcBcOqm1ez0dEMw&nmid=431598078