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94 Honda Accord No Start
04-03-2011, 05:31 PM
I have a 1994 Honda Accord EX that will not start. Ran find yesterday, but stopped running while on the road, like you shut off the ignition.
The distributer is turning, I have spark at the plugs, and the fuel pump is running and I have fuel at the rail. I'm stumped! The car has 238K on it.
What am I missing?
04-03-2011, 08:22 PM
Does it have any codes?
04-03-2011, 08:54 PM
Think it has codes 13 and 18, but not sure. Codes did not appear like I thought they would. The check engine light did not flash, but the 4D light flashed the codes. It seems like the injectors are not spraying any fuel. I can crank and crank, then pull a plug and its dry. Found out on a forum that the distributor has an injector timing piece to it. Ready to throw a distributor at it and see if that fixes it, but don't want to spend $200 if its not needed.
04-04-2011, 08:55 PM
I thought you said there was fuel in the original post. Put your hand on the mail relay then turn the key on. See it it clicks twice.
04-05-2011, 09:35 PM
This Honda is driving me nuts! Checked the main relay and it did click twice when turn key on. I replaced the main relay anyway and still no start. I installed new distributor cap and rotor and plugs. I have really good spark and can smell fuel. There is a port on the fuel rail to check pressure. The port is to small for my fuel pressure tester. I left port open and hit key and it poured fuel out on a rag. Took valve cover off and cam is turning and belt looks good. Never had a car I couldn't get running. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
04-05-2011, 09:40 PM
If you have spark, the ignitor and coil are good. Without knowing the exact fuel pressure it's a guess. We had one in that was 7lbs below spec and wouldn't start. Try a junk yark distributor.
04-06-2011, 09:51 PM
Could it be the computer? I've replaced just about every thing else on the car. Any way to test if the computer is bad?
04-06-2011, 10:41 PM
It's possible. Usually the test for a bad computer is replace with a known good one.
04-07-2011, 09:08 PM
Believe I've found it. I checked timing marks. Placed engine on TDC on no 1 and the top camshaft pulley did not show "UP" like the book calls for. The belt is kind of loose. Believe the belt jumped timing.
Does the engine rotate counter clockwise?
Can't get the crank bolt out. Does it have right hand threads or left hand threads. Have a braker bar on it with a 4 ft extension and it won't budge.
Is there a post on here that has pics of how to set the timing?
It's a F22 VTech engine.
04-07-2011, 10:25 PM
That will do it! How long has it been since it's had a timing belt? Might be a good time to the t/belt, balancer, belt, water pump and seals if they are leaking(crank, balance shaft, cam) check tensioner pulleys for noise. Yes the engine does rotate counter. The crank bolt is NOT reversed thread, it's just a pain to break loose. We have a 3/4" impact gun at the shop and it doesn't break some loose. We use a special tool to hold the balancer from rotating and a 2' breaker bar with a jack handle. There might be a post some where with the timing marks, if not check google images.
04-10-2011, 12:56 AM
Still working on Honda. Working on timing belts. Noticed the timing belt tensioner did not have a bolt in it! Should there be a bolt? Is it a shoulder bolt that allows it to pivot with spring tension? Or do you adjust the belt tension and lock down the belt tensioner? The manual says you can adjust both timing belts with the external locking nut. That will not be true if the main timing belt is locked down with a bolt?
04-10-2011, 08:27 PM
If I'm understanding which bolt you are talking about yes it is a special shouldered bolt. Did you find the bolt in the timing covers? If not, I find it very interesting that it ran as long as it did. Some one must have really cranked down on the nut. The bolt I'm thinking you are talkign about is #13. This may help you - from www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
04-10-2011, 09:11 PM
Thank you for the pic! Just what I was looking for. The tensioner I'm talking about is #17. It has a slot on the side that looks like a bolt should go in it into the block. From my research, it looks like the slot is only for temporally installing the belt. When the belt has been tensioned you tighten the main nut and then remove the #17 tensioner bolt. Is this correct? If it is, then I did not have a bolt missing. Still wonder how it skipped timing.
04-10-2011, 09:54 PM
That's correct, that slot is used during installation of the new belt. I thought you were talking about the other one. Was the belt very loose when you took it a part? Is the tensioner broke where the spring goes or is a spring missing? I have seen a few tensioners break where the spring sits.
04-11-2011, 10:37 AM
The old belt was loose and had oil on it. Maybe thats what made it slip. I didn't have any missing springs. I have the timing belt on and checked compression to be sure it didn't bend a valve. Compresson is good. Just need to install the balance shaft belt and fire it up! Will be a couple days until I get back to it.
04-11-2011, 04:40 PM
Are any of the seals leaking? Crank, cam, or balance shaft? We always install new seals when doing a timing belt. There is also an update for the balance shaft that includes a little fork looking thing to hold it in since the seals were popping out and GUSHING oil. No bent valves is great news!
04-11-2011, 04:48 PM
Bought a crank case set. Installed new crank shaft seal, cam shaft seal, rear balance shaft seal. The front balancer seal looks good yet.
Hopefully get it running tonight!
04-11-2011, 04:51 PM
No water pump?
04-12-2011, 08:07 AM
The Honda is ALIVE! Yahoo!
Thank you for all your help.
Good lesson for me. If no start, check timing first!
04-12-2011, 09:49 PM
Timing is usually the last thing we check, it's rare for that to happen.
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