Security Light/PassKey III Issues


Reynard
03-25-2011, 07:06 PM
Having an issue with my 2002 GP GT. I started it, but then it died after a couple of seconds while the "Security" light was flashing.

I actually had both original keys with and tried each to no avail (same thing: starts, but engine kills after a few seconds). I checked the PassKey III fuse and even replaced it - still no luck.

Called two different dealer service departments and they suggested turning the key to the "ON" position and leaving it for 15 minutes. I tried this 3 times and still the same issue.

I understand this can be a VERY expensive repair as I've read it requires replacing the ignition module and perhaps the Theft Deterrent Module. Guess I'm just looking for any advice anyone may have to at least temporarily by-pass or reset the system so I don't have to get it towed (of course it's no where near my place).

Anyone had this done recently? What were the costs and does anyone know if this has to be dealer fixed or if another shop could handle it?

I'm not very mechanically inclined in terms of anything electrical, so repairing it myself is out of the question, but anyone's experience with, help, or advice on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

brcidd
03-25-2011, 07:10 PM
Anyone who installs remote starters can bypass it permanently- because they do it temporarily while car is remote started, just ask them to it permanently.

BNaylor
03-26-2011, 07:39 AM
Try the following procedure which is specifically for GM Passkey 3.


1. Insert a master key (black head) into the ignition switch.

2. Turn to the “On” position without starting the engine. The security light should illuminate and stay on.

3. Wait approximately 10 minutes or until the security light turns off.

4. Turn off the ignition switch and wait 5 seconds.

5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 two more times with the same key.

6. Turn the ignition off. The vehicle will now learn the key transponder information on the next start cycle.

7. Start the vehicle. If vehicle starts and runs normally, and security light is off, the relearn is complete.

If additional keys are to be relearned:
8. Turn the vehicle off.

9. Insert the next key to be learned and turn the ignition switch to the “On” position within 10 seconds of removing the previously used key.

10. Wait for the security light to turn off. It should happen quickly.
You may not even notice the light come on, because it will learn the key transponder immediately.

11. Repeat steps 8 through 10 for any additional keys.

Reynard
03-26-2011, 11:33 AM
Try the following procedure which is specifically for GM Passkey 3.


1. Insert a master key (black head) into the ignition switch.

2. Turn to the “On” position without starting the engine. The security light should illuminate and stay on.

3. Wait approximately 10 minutes or until the security light turns off.

4. Turn off the ignition switch and wait 5 seconds.

5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 two more times with the same key.

6. Turn the ignition off. The vehicle will now learn the key transponder information on the next start cycle.

7. Start the vehicle. If vehicle starts and runs normally, and security light is off, the relearn is complete.

If additional keys are to be relearned:
8. Turn the vehicle off.

9. Insert the next key to be learned and turn the ignition switch to the “On” position within 10 seconds of removing the previously used key.

10. Wait for the security light to turn off. It should happen quickly.
You may not even notice the light come on, because it will learn the key transponder immediately.

11. Repeat steps 8 through 10 for any additional keys.

Thanks.

Will try but when I tried the similar procedure yesterday, the "Security" light was not illuminated steady, but flashing. Not sure if that makes a difference or is indicative or a more serious problem.

Also, I recently began having occasional trouble being able to turn off the ignition and removing the key (about once or twice a week) - could these issues possibily be related?

BNaylor
03-26-2011, 12:29 PM
I'd have to check the FSM to see what the SECURITY light flashing means. Whats interesting is with Passkey 3 enabled there should be no power to the starter in addition to cutting off the pulse width modulation to the fuel injection system. So the engine should not even start.

A bad ignition switch or key cylinder could be relevant to the issue 'cause the transponder signal from the PK3 key head is passed on within the key cylinder along with key present to the BCM module.

Just to double check you are referring to the SECURITY light at the dash instrument panel cluster and not the one on the top of the dash from the content alarm system, if installed.

Reynard
03-26-2011, 01:14 PM
I'd have to check the FSM to see what the SECURITY light flashing means. Whats interesting is with Passkey 3 enabled there should be no power to the starter in addition to cutting off the pulse width modulation to the fuel injection system. So the engine should not even start.

A bad ignition switch or key cylinder could be relevant to the issue 'cause the transponder signal from the PK3 key head is passed on within the key cylinder along with key present to the BCM module.

Just to double check you are referring to the SECURITY light at the dash instrument panel cluster and not the one on the top of the dash from the content alarm system, if installed.

Thanks again for the quick reply!

So I tried your procedure for "relearning" the master keys and it did work.

But to answer your questions, when I would attempt to start, the engine, it would fire, but then shut off 2-3 seconds later with the "Security" light flashing.

The "Security" light I am referring to is indeed the one on the upper right corner of the instrument panel. I do not have any after-market alarm/security/starter system on the car.

When I was going through your steps the "Security" light (on the instrument cluster) was still flashing and did not steady illuminate at all. But the important thing is that it worked as you suggested and was able to "reprogram" both keys and drive the car home and closer to repair options if necessary.

I just wonder if this issue will reappear or if it is related to key lock/ignition issue I mentioned. It happens very sporadically, but the key would always come out if I depressed the button on the gear shift lever and heard a subsequent "click" noise from the area of the steering column.

ronabruzzi
02-21-2016, 01:44 PM
what if security light doesnt go out while in on position?

Tech II
02-21-2016, 10:07 PM
You are jumping in on a 5 year old thread......

Year, make, model, mileage, engine, symptoms, codes?

ronabruzzi
02-22-2016, 11:18 AM
2001 Buick Lesabre passkey 3 ..security light stays solid even after half hour of ignition sitting in on position. Starter is good..fuses are good..fuse panels are hot..crank turns manually..battery is not corroded..lights on dash and radio come on but when turning key to run position with ignition everything goes out.

Tech II
02-22-2016, 08:04 PM
2001 Buick Lesabre passkey 3 ..security light stays solid even after half hour of ignition sitting in on position.

Have you tried another key?



Starter is good..

How do you know?



fuses are good..fuse panels are hot..

They shouldn't be hot...



crank turns manually

Do you mean by turning the crank bolt with a wrench, or jumping the starter?



..battery is not corroded..lights on dash and radio come on but when turning key to run position with ignition everything goes out.

That is a normal function when the key is in the crank position....



With that light on constantly, it's telling you you have a problem.....If there is nothing wrong with your key, then even though you leave the ignition on for more than 10 minutes, and the light stays on, means you have a problem with the system.......does this vehicle have an aftermarket remote start in it? If it does, that is where I would be looking first.....seen a few wiring problems caused by add on systems.....

For the most part, these systems have been pretty foolproof.......outside of a visual inspection, not much you can do, without a Tech II scan tool and diagnostic charts.....

ronabruzzi
02-23-2016, 12:02 PM
Yes ive tried the 2 other keys i have 3 total..i know the starter is good because we wired it with a push button .. fuse panel being hot means that the fuse panel is getting eletrical current .. yes i put a socket onto the crank and turned it .. the only time the security light goes out is when i initially put the key into on position itll go out for about 30 secs and come back on solid..and no the car is stock everything no aftermarket nothing ... and with all the complaints on the internet and youtube i dont think this system is to fullproof*

Tech II
02-23-2016, 10:47 PM
Normal operation is, is turn key to on, SECURITY LIGHT comes on for 3 seconds and goes out.....turn key to crank and it should start......

If Security light does not go out or flashes, you have a problem.....

PassKey III, is not like PassKey I or II, which has a wiring problem.....III does not have this wiring problem......and don't confuse this system with PassLock, which a lot of people and sites do.....for the most part, there have been few problems with PK III.....have seen starter enable relay problems(which would not affect light operation), have seen wiring problems where installed remote starters have caused problems, and the only TSB I remember, is if the exciter ring moves over the lock cylinder and can cause intermittent starting problems....

A code should be set.....but most code readers/scanners only read "P" codes....you need to read "P" and "B" codes....

ronabruzzi
02-24-2016, 02:28 PM
Do you think changing out the instrument panel could have had an affect on the ECU? Do you think that flashing the ECU will fix the problem with knowing everything that is going on?

Tech II
02-25-2016, 10:34 PM
No.....I/P has nothing to do with PKIII....

You are kind of jumping the gun on reflashing the ECM....that is a guess....proper diagnosis is the correct method....

ronabruzzi
02-26-2016, 12:39 AM
being the transmission is locked up in the car the buick dealership will not look at the car.. i have a buddy that has a code reader but i dont know if its the one that reads "P" and "B" codes.I was also looking at these universal remote start interfaces (the box you install before you add a remote start) that actually bypass the manufacturer antenna ring by inserting a spare key into the interface , i wonder if thatll get me going.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_607556UW/Bypass-Essentials-556UW-Universal-Bypass.html?tp=155&awkw=75646650385&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=47717856145&awdv=c

Tech II
02-26-2016, 08:59 AM
being the transmission is locked up in the car the buick dealership will not look at the car.


What does that mean? The transmission is locked up?

I don't understand why a dealership wouldn't look at the vehicle.....

ronabruzzi
02-26-2016, 12:27 PM
The transmission doesn't function,its locked up..the reason I bought the car..I was gonna put a transmission in it..then this security thing put a Hault to that..I told the service department at my local Buick dealership that the car would have to be towed and that the car won't roll due to the tranny being locked up and they said they won't touch the car until I put another tranny in it.

Tech II
02-26-2016, 09:54 PM
This gets more and more interesting.......you buy a vehicle that doesn't start, with a transmission that needs to be replaced? And the vehicle is 14 years old? And you don't know if it has more problems because it was never driven?

Holy schmeckle! Yours repair costs, plus whatever you paid for the vehicle, makes this a losing battle.....

ronabruzzi
02-27-2016, 03:07 AM
No , the car did run until the security engaged..I bought the car for $400 to replace the transmission.its a nice car other then the transmission needing to be replaced I removed the alternator and battery to get checked at a local auto parts store which both checked out fine I replaced the instrument cluster panel also.when I hooked the battery back up the security came on and been trying to get the car to crank ever since. And the car was drivable until the transmission went out in it.

brcidd
02-27-2016, 09:04 AM
I'd put the old instrument cluster back in-- there are links to that through the computer that probably are causing the security problem-- that would need to be re-programmed in your ecm when changing cluster.

It's worth a test try anyway....

BTW how did you handle the mileage change on odometer?

ronabruzzi
02-27-2016, 01:31 PM
When I bought the newer/used cluster panel I was hoping that the ECU would have saved the cars mileage which I found out it didn't because the newer cluster panel is showing the mileage of the other car it came out of but it does give me several other options on the same LED screen like battery power,oil pressure,tire pressure etc which is good..So I'll have to Flash the ECU you're saying hence reprogram?

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