2000 gm spark plug replacement
vtwindave
03-24-2011, 02:46 PM
any "tricks" or things to watch out for when changing spark plugs? looks like the fuel rail has to be moved, any issues with this? thanks.
Blue)(Fusion
03-25-2011, 06:05 PM
Fuel rail does not have to be removed. Once you unbolt the Coil-On-Plugs (COPs), they can be twisted a bit and pulled right out as they have rubber boots.
Some things to note:
Be sure the engine is cooled down completely to room temperature, especially before torquing the new plugs.
Do NOT use anti-seize, oil, or any type of lubrication on the spark plugs. This will cause over-torquing and stripped threads.
Tighten to 16 lb-ft and NO MORE or you can strip the already very weak threads in the head.
Do not over tighten the COP bolts very hard, either. They are just tightening down to a brass fitting in the composite intake manifold and the brass fitting can easily come loose.
You will probably break some, if not all, of the retention tabs on the fuel injectors if you disconnect them to make room. This is a non-issue as long as you ensure they are put back in place pretty good. Some people recommend zip-ties, but I have had no issues without anything holding the connectors in place.
Get a long extension as this will make the job much easier....especially the rear passenger side plug.
Before installing the COPs, inspect the boots for cracks and holes. Clean the old grease and debris off. Then apply dielectric grease to the ends of the boots to keep moisture out and an air tight seal between the plug and COP boot.
Gap to .054". Do not assume they are pre-gapped. Measure and adjust the gap as necessary.
Do NOT use Bosch spark plugs. Stock with Motorcraft or Autolite (manufacturer of Motorcraft spark plugs). I am running Autolite double platinum APP103's which are one heat range colder than stock (for good reason).
I see you are in the Cleveland area, too. If you need help, just ask.
Some things to note:
Be sure the engine is cooled down completely to room temperature, especially before torquing the new plugs.
Do NOT use anti-seize, oil, or any type of lubrication on the spark plugs. This will cause over-torquing and stripped threads.
Tighten to 16 lb-ft and NO MORE or you can strip the already very weak threads in the head.
Do not over tighten the COP bolts very hard, either. They are just tightening down to a brass fitting in the composite intake manifold and the brass fitting can easily come loose.
You will probably break some, if not all, of the retention tabs on the fuel injectors if you disconnect them to make room. This is a non-issue as long as you ensure they are put back in place pretty good. Some people recommend zip-ties, but I have had no issues without anything holding the connectors in place.
Get a long extension as this will make the job much easier....especially the rear passenger side plug.
Before installing the COPs, inspect the boots for cracks and holes. Clean the old grease and debris off. Then apply dielectric grease to the ends of the boots to keep moisture out and an air tight seal between the plug and COP boot.
Gap to .054". Do not assume they are pre-gapped. Measure and adjust the gap as necessary.
Do NOT use Bosch spark plugs. Stock with Motorcraft or Autolite (manufacturer of Motorcraft spark plugs). I am running Autolite double platinum APP103's which are one heat range colder than stock (for good reason).
I see you are in the Cleveland area, too. If you need help, just ask.
vtwindave
03-26-2011, 08:16 PM
thanks for all the info, it really helped out! i have to get a manual for this car but i like the info from someone that has "hands on" experiance. i changed all the plugs before work today, easier than i thought. installed the autolite platinums
(blue fusion, what part cle are you in? i'm in medina)
(blue fusion, what part cle are you in? i'm in medina)
Blue)(Fusion
03-27-2011, 08:38 AM
Glad to hear it went well. I'm in North Royalton near the Parma border.
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