About item numbering in Model Factory Hiro instruction

I searched a lot across the internet and AF, but really could not find the answer. Perhaps it is a newbie question:

How does Model Factory Hiro number their parts?

Since all the parts (resin/metal) are not on a sprue like injection, there is no place to mark the item number. Initially I think users simply identify a part by ... looking at them to figure what he needs.

But in the instruction of a Model Factory Hiro kit, there is a numbering system: such as 'M26', 'E8', which is not on the list of the parts on the first page (C for Clear parts for example).

So how does numbering system work for a Model Factory Hiro kit? Any comment is welcomed.


Cheers,

Leon

There should be a picture of all the parts laid out with the numbers printed on or near them with the instructions. You can then match up the part
visually comparing to the picture.

M = metal parts

E = etched parts

Regards, Dan

Thanks for the reply Dan. I think that's exactly what I expected. The problem is on the instruction I could not find such a picture with all parts laid out!

There is a 'Part List' on the first page with turned parts, clear parts, vacuum parts and others. Then color table and step 1 - 47, the last page is the decal instruction.

Is the layout picture on a separate paper? Or this kit just misses it? I am very confused...


Leon

It really depends from kit to kit, sometimes you have only turned, PE and resin parts numbered, without white metal parts and sometimes you have everything. Sometimes they leave "sprue" under some parts that you could confuse and put number on it, or L or R if it depends on side, but trust me, you can easily find what you are looking for once you start the kit without any numbers (as for resin and white metal, and PE is always numbered).

I see. Thanks for the information, very helpful! I just sent an email to MFH, but don't care about the reply anyway, since I believe I can re-arrange the numbering of white metal parts! hopefully.


Leon

MFH instructions are hit/miss. Sometimes they are great, have a list of all the parts ,a picture, etc, some have nothing. But, their drawings are clear enough so you could figure it out most of the time.

Some of those cast metal parts can be confusing, especially on the more complicated kits. In addition to finding fit issues, this is another good reason for doing a temporary build-up with "school glue". Comparing the relative visibility of the parts helps me prioritize my time for most impact.