Replaced ignition switch

Here's yet another ignition switch post.
Back in 2007, I followed LittleHoov's fine writeup and removed my ignition switch, took it apart, cleaned the contacts, and eliminated the random stumbles and engine dying that had been occurring. All was well until a few weeks ago, when the stumbling and engine dying started again.
This time, I decided to spend the money, ordered an AC Delco switch from Rockauto, and just installed it.
Thanks to Krivasauto's outstanding pictures on Shutterfly at http://99intrigue.shutterfly.com/ignitionswitch
I had an even easier time of it. Removing the center vent certainly provides more room.
The only casualty seems to be the "Low Trac" lamp in the instrument panel, but that should be easy to replace.
The only refinement I can offer is that on reassembly, reinstall the ignition key cylinder "surround" (the plastic ring) while the two ignition switch bracket screws are still a bit loose (see Krivasauto's photo #29 of the slideshow for these two screws). It allows the necessary centering to occur for the surround to fit over the key cylinder. Standard practice, I know, but I forgot it, and had to loosen the screws to fit the surround.
Thanks to Krivasauto and Littlehoov for making this a pretty easy job.

Im just glad to see an ignition switch problem actually fixed around here! Seems like lately its been going the other way.

Always nice to chock one up in the win column haha. Glad you got 'er done.

Was looking through the pics in the above link for getting to the ign. switch.

For those that are bendable, it is possible to get the switch out from under the steering column without removing the radio or instrument cluster and removal of the electrical plugs, interlock cable and the "two bolts" are simplified. The catch is it's from under the dash and getting your knees on the ground and elbows on the floor. Ya lose the comfort on being in a chair, but the switch comes out in 15 minutes.

Behind the knee bolster is a black metal bracket with two self aligning pins, It's held in with four 10 mm 3/4 inch long bolts toward the center (need a 6 " extension) , 4 screws on the corners like the ones holding in the radio and 2 more holding the hood release handle in place. One corner of it can be seen in photos #22 and #30

Removal of this bracket allows for the whole switch assembly to be pulled out about 5 inches into clear free open space just to the left of it's home position.

In conjunction with the pics from above:
1. Completely remove the knee bolster and then the metal bracket/plate
2. The interlock and electrical release tabs are right there looking at you. Disconnect these before loosen /removing the three switch screws as it gives leverage and eliminates the need for a third hand.
3. You still have to remove the radio bezel to get to the lower left screw only on the radio which doubles as one of the three switch screw.
4. You still remove the cluster bezel to get at the other two switch screws but it just needs to be pulled back to get at them.
5. Now one just has to wiggle and rotate the switch and it comes right out and down hanging on the light and passlock wires.
6. Remove the two nuts holding the switch bracket.
7. key to on, press the metal tab and pull the lock barrel assembly and remove the passlock switch.
8. Do what needs to be down and reverse.

Cheers.