Lucas Oil Trans Fix

Has anyone had any dealings with the Lucas Oil Transmission Fix additive?

Like I posted in your other thread, you should just be able to change the ATF and you'll be okay. If that fails, then add Dr. Tranny's Instant Shudder Fix. Every time I heard of someone using it, it fixed the issue.

http://www.amazon.com/Instant-Shudder-Fixx-Dr-Tranny/dp/B0007ZDRVC

I hate to admit this but the fluid has never been changed in this car for the trans. I have been told that changing the fluid now would cause more trouble than not. i am ignorant of these issues and am trying to figure out how to go about getting this car through a few more miles. Will the TCC just blow out and leave me stranded or is it a general and gradual degradation of the transmission? Thank you for your insights and experience.

Replace the fluid. The only way a problem would be caused now is if there's a buildup of sediment and a T-Tec or similar flush knocks it loose and it gets stock elsewhere causing fluid starvation. Chances are very slim to none. Regardless, you have everything to gain and nothing to lose. You NEED to change that ATF.

Do it yourself for best and cheapest results. Seriously, it's way way easier than it looks. You can even drain the fluid by disconnecting the trans cooler line and starting the engine and it will flow into pan or bucket. When you drop the pan, you won't have fluid gushing out at you. There will be some leftover, though. And when you drop the valve body, it will drop out for quite some time.

You only need a few sockets, a regular socket wrench and an inch-pound torque wrench that you can set to 90 in-lbs for re-installation of the valve body. A new valve body gaskets is recommended and cheap (around $4 at the dealer). If you want to clean out what you can as best you can, you can even take the valve body seperator plate off to clean most of the inside of the valve body. Brake cleaner works great for this. Just be sure to get the TWO gaskets required if removing the separator plate and to not lose the 8 check balls or little filter screen in the valve body.

After any fluid change, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS remove the negative battery cable for atleast 15 minutes to reset the computer. The computer remembers how "slippery" the ATF is and adjusts the shift pressure accordingly. After a fluid change the ATF is much less slippery and failure to do this step is where damage may occur after exchanging your severely worn fluid for fresh MERCON V.

Again, this is very easy to do. Hardest part is crawling under it knowing you're about to get dirty and cold. The rest is a piece of cake and shouldn't take you more than 4-5 hours taking your time.

If you want a walk through and some pictures I am more than happy to provide what I can get.

I used 1 bottle of Lucas Oil Trans Fix. It has been about 10,000 miles since I put it in. Yes, I do drive a lot! The "shudder" has decreased about 75%. Trans is shifting great. I highly recommend this product!

Last year about this time I finally changed fluid/filter on my 05' Subaru at the time 100,000 miles .I used NAPA DEX 3 fluid ,filter was bought at O'reily's.Transmission shifted very rough after change. I used the Lucas additive.The Trans just after a few miles performed great.The other day I changed again,but instead I used Castrol fluid and the Trans is smoother than ever.So the Lucas helped me.but I'm just wondering if I'd used Castrol last change would the extra expense of the Lucas been unnecessary.Or maybe putting off till' 100000 miles to change it.