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02 Accord Trans acting up
01-16-2011, 09:11 PM
2002 Accord, EX, Automatic, 4 cyl.
When you go to slow down, to around 10 mph and then take off it acts like you are putting the clutch in and dropping it, revs a little and then clunk...only when you slow down. If I put in "1" and pick up speed then slow down to about 10, then give it gas, it doesn't do it, acts normal. The car has about 144K miles on it. Any ideas?
01-17-2011, 06:00 PM
Sounds like the start of trans issues. The clunk could be the engine mounts. They are known to go bad.
01-17-2011, 06:54 PM
I will check them but it is more like pushing a clutch in and let it out fast type noise. What is strange it doesn't do it if I manually shift, just when in D3 or D4....
01-25-2011, 08:46 PM
I have the same year accord; purchased it new. For the last 5 yrs or so, I've been living with a similar condition. When slowing down to a stop sign or light; (not coming to a full stop) and begin to accelerate moderate or heavy, the automatic transmission doesn't downshift fast enough and when it finally engages, the car jerks (accelerates) forward a bit. If I'm light on the accelerator, its not to noticeable. If I move the gear selector into D3 while slowing down; the automatic transmission downshifting is less noticeable. I think my issue is possibly a "shift solenoid" not functioning properly....as this condition occurs during the slowing/downshifting phase. I have 174,000 miles on the car. All original. I replaced the transmission fluid around 90,000 miles with Honda fluid. It's my daily commute to work car.
When to the Honda Dealership years ago about this and was told by the young service advisor that this was probably due to the Transmission brain logic.
01-29-2011, 01:09 AM
It sounds like you need a transmission. I have replaced several of these when I worked at the Honda dealer. There is an extended transmission warranty on several Honda vehicles that may cover this at no charge. You should call an authorized Honda dealer, give them your V.I.N. Number and have them run a vin status inquiry. This will bring up any recalls or factory extended warranties. Many of these trans extention warranties covered them for over 100,000 miles. I can not guarentee your vehicle is included in this extension but it's worth checking! Let me know
02-16-2011, 06:34 PM
THanks I will check with a dealer on the warranty side. That would be nice but my luck it won't be covered.
I did pull the solenoids to check them. The lock down set that has the screen filter, the ohms was 32.4. The screen was pretty clogged. It was all fine material but I would assume that is a sign of things to come. On the solenoids with the linear solenoid, the linear solenoid ohm was 6.8 and the other solenoid was 6.6. Does anyone know what the ohm reading should be on the solenoids?
I cleaned the screen and put them back on. THere was no change in how it acts.
Also, I looked around on the trans to see which model of trans it was. I couldn't find anything. Where would I find it? Can I call the dealer with the VIN and they tell me which model of trans it has?
02-16-2011, 09:46 PM
Usually changing the solenoids doesn't work. We've tried it on a few customer's cars without luck. They seem to be fixed for a short time then the problem returns.
The only thing the dealer needs to know is year & engine size for the trans. There is only 2 options for automatic - 4 cylinder or V6. You can look it up on www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
02-20-2011, 11:36 PM
Pulled the trans and I am going to rebuild it. Trying to find out what the solenoids ohm reading should be. I will put 12 volts to them to see if they operate freely. But I am not sure where it would list the ohm readings when checking the solenoids in a service repair manual. I bought a service repair manual one online, downloaded it but can't find anything on the solenoids. Any ideas?
02-22-2011, 09:36 PM
You could go to the dealer and ask to see the manual for your car or purchase one at www.helminc.com
02-26-2011, 06:00 PM
That Gen of Accord with the auto transmission has had a history of early failure. Do NOT flush the tranny if it's an automatic, it will self destruct.
02-27-2011, 02:12 PM
I have the trans out and going through and cleaning parts now. The little filter screens in the valve body was pretty clogged. Didn't look like metal parts but maybe clutch material. Will be taking the clutch packs apart later this afternoon. But I am having trouble pulling the alum. end caps in the valve body. Pulled the clip that holds it in but the cap won't come out. Any ideas or secrets on getting those out. On the last two trans I have rebuilt they weren't like this. I have put the valve bodies in a parts cleaner to soak and I tried moving the valves in and out to maybe wash any grit out of the openings...but no luck. So stuck trying to get the end caps out.
02-27-2011, 04:40 PM
I can't help you. All we do replace the transmission with a rebuilt one. I've never had a newer one apart.
02-27-2011, 09:34 PM
Are they caps you can buy replacements for?
Drill and slide hammer.
Otherwise I've never seen anything so stuck PB Blaster wouldn't loosen, if it's supposed to move.
02-27-2011, 10:27 PM
Yes, at least they show up on the honda site, relatively cheap too. I did get them all out finally..one is pretty scarred up from trying to pull on it. But even if it is scarred up on the top, as long as the sides are good, it shouldn't matter should it on the top??
Now I have one valve that won't come out...it slides to where the cap goes and stops... I pushed the valve all the way in and tried some 600 grit sand paper to take the edges off but still won't come out. And I can't push it out any more...no place to pry it any. Thinking about going by a transmission shop tomorrow and see if they have a way to get the valve out.
I bought a master rebuild kit but it didn't come with the secondary filters, on the main valve body and the regulator body. Everything I read says to replace the filters but the kit didn't provide them.. Is this something most people just clean and put back in?
Also, it says to replace the main nuts on the main, secondary, and countershaft. I seem to remember when I rebuilt my 97 it said the same thing but someone said to just torq them and go on. Is that still the thought or do people replace them?
UPDATE: I took some the 600 grit paper and rolled it up, put it in just past the two sections where the caps sit, and then turned it opposite way it was rolled, to tighten it up in the hole, and kept spinning it around...it did the job...the valve came out. Now working on getting the caps to go in easy. But I think I will go ahead and replace the caps and then check the openings with the new caps.
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