1997 no power at starter

I have a 1997 Olds Bravada. I recently pulled the engine and rebuilt it becxause it threw the number one rod. It started fine before I pulled the engine. After I got the engine back together I put it back in the truck and now it won't turn over at all. I have power and the battery is charged to 12V. I checked the power at the starter terminal and my test light didn't light up. Pulled the wires off the starter and retested them and still no power. I have power at the battery, and in all of the fuses. The only place I don't have power is at the end of the positive battery terminals that lead to the starter. Any thoughts on what I may have done wrong?
Thanks!!:banghead:

In moving the wires around while replacing the engine the wire could have broken. disconnect the battery then strip back about 2 inches of insulation at the starter terminal to see if its broken. Thats the most likely place. Sounds like you need a wire anyways but it's nice to know for sure.

You might check and clean the battery connections and bolts with baking soda and water too.

Now I am at a loss!!:banghead:

Finally got the power to the starter cables. Thanks guys. But the starter won't crank. I replaced the starter tonight to see if that was the issues and it wans't. I have a fully charged battery, power at the ends of the connections, but the starter will not engage:banghead:. Checked the relays and they came out fine. Have no idea why the starter will not engage. I have power at the starter terminals. Any ideas??

Check the ground cable to the engine.

Check the ground cable to the engine.

any idea where that is located? I hooked up all the grounds in the back of the engine.
Thanks!
John

Black wire at the starter must have battery voltage at all times. Purple wire should show battery voltage when the ignition is in the START position only.

When the ignition is turned to the START position, can you feel/hear the starter relay click?

The battery ground connects to the engine block just below and behind the lower radiator hose/passenger side.
Clean both surfaces to get a solid connection.

If the positive cable is damaged it will light a tast light but not have enough connection to run a starter.

If the positive cable is damaged it will light a tast light but not have enough connection to run a starter.

Check the ground cable to the engine.

Both Chris and snshddog are right, could be either cable. Get a set of jumper cables and use them to bypass each cable directly one at a time to see if they are the problem. You can do that without disconnecting the original cables, just jumper over them to create an alternative path for the current. And watch out for the fan.

Hey Chris, I tried your trick about pickling the cauliflower. I hated cauliflower before then and even more now. Thanks, pardner but no thanks.

How about battery corrosion working up into the battery cables!
This could be resistance ,that's not allowing the battery going to the starter.

You can check all of the cables very easily using the voltage drop method with a volt meter. http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm It will tell you EXACTLY which cable has a problem.

Hey Chris, I tried your trick about pickling the cauliflower. I hated cauliflower before then and even more now. Thanks, pardner but no thanks.

:rofl: Sorry Eric. I'm gonna try the same thing with these bread & butter pickles when they run out....I'll let you know.:smokin:

Hey all, thanks so much for the replys.

Well, finally found a few broken wires and repaired them and still no start. So I borrowed a scanner and found out that I had a bad crank and cam sensor. Made me mad since I replaced these with new ones when I had the engine out.:banghead: Put the old ones back in and it started right up.

Now I have a bad squeak coming from the front. If I spray WD-40 or belt dressing on it, the squeak stops but about 5 miles down the road and the belt starts squeaking again. And the belt is new :banghead:

Take the belt off and start the engine. If the squeak stops then check the idler pulley then the rest of the pulleys to try to locate the squealer.

Take the belt off and start the engine. If the squeak stops then check the idler pulley then the rest of the pulleys to try to locate the squealer.

Well, took your advise Chris and the squeak stoped couldn't find any pullies that squeaked. Took the belt and coated it real good in belt dressing and no squeak. Never had this happen before so I guess it is a first :icon16:

Thanks!!!

I've had this happen when I got the wrong belt once. The "V" shape of the belt did not fit into the "V" shape of the pulley. Belt dressing would fix it for a short time.