Change or just drain and fill on Rodeo

I want to drop the pan on my 2001 Rodeo and change the trans fluid. Anyone have any posted pics of this process for terminally lame to follow.
I need really detailed how-to with pics if possible. This was done about 25k ago by local shop, so MAYBE, I can just drain and refill myself, but not
even sure how to do that.:screwy:

I want to drop the pan on my 2001 Rodeo and change the trans fluid. Anyone have any posted pics of this process for terminally lame to follow.
I need really detailed how-to with pics if possible. This was done about 25k ago by local shop, so MAYBE, I can just drain and refill myself, but not
even sure how to do that.:screwy:

I think I can help you out a bit if you're sure you want to tackle it.

Be prepared to take a Dexron III bath! I've done mine twice, most recently this summer & while it isn't a difficult job & does not require many tools or skills, it sure is messy! I usually drop/clean both the smaller adapter pan in front, and the main valve body pan in back and replace the filter & gasket. You can't really get all the ATF out without a power flush since much will remain in the torque converter, so I usually drain (not remove) the main pan two more times 1-2 weeks after the full service. Just to renew as much of the old ATF as possible. Due to mixing, you never get it all.

You first have to unbolt/drop the cross-brace that supports the tranny. Otherwise, cannot get to all the main pan bolts. And you need to support the tranny at the transfer case while the brace is dropped/removed. So you really need a good, low floor jack for that.

As far as parts needed, not much:

* New tranny filter;
* Main pan/adapter pan gasket;
* 6-7 qts Dexron III;
* Some sort of pump to pump in the ATF from below;
* A whole lot of clean-up rags!!!!!!
(I also use a barbed fitting to screw into the tranny pan to pump in the new ATF, but that isn't essential).

That's it. Pretty straightforward really. It's maybe a 2-3 hr job for non-pro.

I'm busy right now (here comes the boss!) but I took a bunch of photos of the "first time" that I'll be glad to post up later if you'd like to view them.

Best O luck!

Thanks, and definitely need pics so I know where to find drain and refill plugs and exactly what a barbed fitting looks like if you took pics.

OK, seems like not many of us Rodeo/Passport drivers left, so we got to stick together!

Better work in a spot where the veh is level, and where you can deal with spilled ATF. Gotta first drop the crossmember that supports the tranny. Before you do that, put a jack under the transfer case to support the tranny/transfer after removal of crossmember. Crossmember drops with three big bolts (as I recall) at frame rails on each side, and two nuts beneath the tranny. Careful, it's heavy (maybe 40-50 lbs?). I used a second jack to support/drop the crossmember. That's not essential, but is easier if you working alone. Before you drop the crossmember, youll have to remove a number of small nuts that secure the fuel lines to the crossmember.

http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv242/M_P340/Passport%20Tranny%20Service/2X-MemberRemoval.jpg

When you remove the crossmember, the fuel lines will simply hand down right in your way! No way around this, just gotta work around them.


http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv242/M_P340/Passport%20Tranny%20Service/10FuelLines.jpg

Once crossmember is completely removed, drain main pan from lower pan drain bolt (#2 in this pic). You'll probably get no more than 4-5 qts (of the total 9 qts) old ATF out this drain:

http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv242/M_P340/PassportTransPan.jpg

Once drained, remove the 16 main pan bolts (10mm) & drop main pan, and remove 12 adapter pan bolts (10mm) & drop adapter pan. Careful; adapter pan will be full of ATF. Clean off gaskets from cases. If pans have not previously been removed, this might be a bXtch, as the factory glued them on.

Once the main pan is down, remove the 3 filter retain bolts (13mm) & remove tranny filter (big plastic thing in this pic):

http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv242/M_P340/Passport%20Tranny%20Service/9OldFilter.jpg

Once filter is gone, here's what you'll see (be careful of wires! if damaged, tranny will not work right):

http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv242/M_P340/Passport%20Tranny%20Service/16AdapterMainValveBodys.jpg

Clean out the main pan and it's internal magnet:

http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv242/M_P340/Passport%20Tranny%20Service/7InsideTrannyPan.jpg

And the adapter pan:

http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv242/M_P340/Passport%20Tranny%20Service/5AdapterCasePanInside.jpg

Replace the old filter with a new one at main valve body & tighten filter bolts to 15 ft-lb.

Replace cleaned pans with new gasket. It is difficult to get the pans on with gasket in place but resist the temptation to glue it to the case or pan. You'll be sorry next time if you do. Be careful that you've got all bolts through all gasket holes & into the body before tightening. It's easy for the gaskets to get out of position & miss a gasket bolt hole. If you do, it'll leak like crazy when you start it! Also, be careful not to over-torque the pan bolts. Spec is 96 in-lbs! Just work slow & be careful!

Oncet both pans are on & secure, it's time to replace the crossmember removed initially and reload new Dexron III/Mercon V ATF. The big bolts securing crossmember to frame on both sides should be torqued to 56 ft-lbs, and two nuts beneath tranny to 37 ft-lbs.

Since there is no dipstick or topside fill port, the fresh ATF must be pumped in through the overflow bolt (#1 on the first pic). This is just a messy PIA, and there's no way around it.

There's probably better ways to accomplish it, but the way I refilled fresh ATF was to purchase a 1/4" X 3/8" MIP barbed adapter to screw into the overflow bolt hole, then I used a cheap fluid pump I got from Wally-World to simply pump in ATF from beneath the car.

http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv242/M_P340/Passport%20Tranny%20Service/18SideBarbFillAdapter.jpg

http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv242/M_P340/Passport%20Tranny%20Service/22FillinHerUp.jpg

http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv242/M_P340/Passport%20Tranny%20Service/21BarbAdapterinService.jpg

To begin, just pump in ATF until it begins to run back out the overflow bolt hole. You'll only get 4 qts or so into the pan. Then replace the drain bolt & fire up the engine.

Run the engine for at least 3 min to get the ATF up to at least 90 F or above (feel the main pan for guess). Run it through the gears to activate all the solenoids & fully circulate the ATF but do not move the veh.
After you've warmed up the ATF, remove the overflow bolt with the engine running and youll get no overflow. So pump additional ATF into the pan with engine running until it runs out like before. Close overflow bolt & restart to warm up again. Remove overflow bolt one more time to ensure you have sufficient ATF in pan, but not excess, as it will expand when it gets hot.

That's pretty much it. You probably only removed/replaced 6-7 qts of the 9 in the unit. The rest was trapped in the torque converter. I usually simply drain the main pan & top off with new ATF twice more a week or two later just to maximize replacement of old ATF.

If questions, just ask.

Thanks a million for taking the time to do what you've done. Seems you've covered everything and I perceive no problem. Thanks again. Hopefully I'll get the chance to help someone else the way you've helped me.

How many miles did you have on your tranny filter?

How many miles did you have on your tranny filter?

93,400.

It was the OEM filter installed at factory build. The tranny was power-flushed by Honda dealership at 25K, and again at 75K, but the pans were not removed, & filter not replaced of course.