tranny problem

I,m replacing my fluid in 95 gm, 199k+ miles, when I dropped the pan I found, what looks like a round hollow point dradle in the pan. What is it, and where does it go? Ican,t see where it might fit.

Obviously your pan has never been off. If it looks about the sise of a quarter with a landle on one side. like a lollypop, that is the factory plug in the dipstick tube to keep debris out during installation.

Obviously your pan has never been off.

One thing I learned from being a flight instructor...never say "obviously." If it were obvious, he'd know. Don't take it personally, just sayin' in general way2old.

But yes like way2old said, when I dropped my pan the first time, mine was in there, too. It means the transmission was flushed with a T-tec or similar device instead of the traditional pan drop and fill. No problems. Just clean the pan, magnet, replace the filter, and fill it with Mercon V. Do not use Universal type ATF. If it says Mercon/Dexron III, it is not Mercon V and is not acceptable. Get specifically branded Mercon V.

95 calls for Mercon IV. Mercon V started in 98

Thanks for the input gentlemen, I replaced the fluid because I'm having a problem with shuddering. Unfortunately, the problem remains. Before I condemn the tranny, probably along with the car. Is there something else that could be causing the shudder. I read in the Windstar forum that the EGR valve could cause the car to shudder. Any help will be appreciated. Also I used Mercon V, because the parts store computer specified it.

Does it feel like you are driving over rumble strips on the side of the highway or does it feel more like an occasional chugging/hesitation when in 3rd or 4th gear at speed?

The former would be torque converter shudder, the latter would indicate an EGR/DPFE problem. I've had it last summer. It went away on it's own and returned when I swapped my cams again late this past summer. I am still trying to track it down...

I have both, but the chugging is more recent and getting worse. I'll check out the EGR system. How difficult is it to remove the torque converter?
Also, is there any way to spell check posts, before sending them?

For a short term fix, you can use a bottle of Trans Medic Anti Shudder Guard to stop the torque converter shudder. As I said, it is a temporary fix.

The chugging may also be just a plug breaking down occasionally. I know someone will say it will throw a code, but believe me, it does not always show a misfire in the PCM.

For a short term fix, you can use a bottle of Trans Medic Anti Shudder Guard to stop the torque converter shudder. As I said, it is a temporary fix.

Dr. Tranny Shudder Fix also works well I've heard. These products are just concentrated friction modifier and makes the torque converter lock-up clutch work correctly in some cases. Since you already flushed and filled with fresh fluid, this is likely not the case. But curiously did you use Mercon/Dexron III or Mercon V fluid?

The chugging may also be just a plug breaking down occasionally. I know someone will say it will throw a code, but believe me, it does not always show a misfire in the PCM.

Absolutely it might be a plug or plug wire going bad. I've had a coil-on-plug completely fail and no code was ever set or CEL ever illuminate. I think that may be because the misfire check was disabled in my aftermarket tune, however.

I would say that usually a misfire caused by weak spark would happen mostly at heavy acceleration and may also be present at idle. If you are only experiencing your problems at 35+MPH at light load (flat road not accelerating), it is the TC shudder and/or EGR/DPFE system.

The DPFE sensor can accumulate alot of water in it from the exhaust. It is located on the rear of the passenger side head. Two bolts hold it down, has two rubber hoses connected to the bottom, and an electrical connector. You can try removing this sensor, smacking it in your hand a few times with the holes pointed into your palm to smack the water out and re-install. It is a tight space back there. The EGR can be checked for proper operation (although not very scientifically) by taking the vacuum connector from the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail and attaching it to the top of the EGR valve while the engine is running. The engine will start to hesitate and RPMS drop and then the computer will compensate and should come back to near normal. You will hear the exhaust gasses flowing through the EGR valve.

Oh one more thing, remove the electrical connector from the EGR vacuum solenoid. It is located near the passenger side fuel rail. It has a vacuum hoses running out of it and an electrical connector. Removing the electrical connector will prevent the EGR being commanded open. I know that my problem goes away when I disconnect this electrical connector. If nothing changes for you, it's 99.9% chance that it's not EGR related.

The torque converter is hard to access. You have to remove the Y- or H-pipe from the exhaust, remove the driveshaft, and drop the transmission. Then you can access the TC. If you go that far, you might as well get a remanufactured one to ensure the TC will last the life of your car. 12" is stock, but 11.25" converters can be had for about the same price from 2000+ police and HPP models and offer a noticeable improvement in throttle responsiveness. A flex plate with the 11.25" bolt pattern will be required.

You guys where right about the spark plug missing, replaced the plugs and wires and no more shudder. Thank you very much for the information and good advise. I hope I can be of help to somebody in the future.