I need to replace my front pads and rotors on my ’02 Blazer 4x4 w/ ABS. I’ve done it on my ’92 Lumina several times with no problems (no ABS). If I’m careful when compressing the pistons I could even get away without bleeding the brakes. Is there anything I should know about doing the fronts on my Blazer because of FWD or ABS or is it pretty straightforward?

If I use the same care, will I be able to avoid having to bleed the brakes?

I know about the rears from this thread: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=770322&highlight=blazer+brakes

On the rears, I assume I must bleed the brakes, no way around that right? If I replace the rears like the thread above states, do I have to bleed them all the way around (4x)?

as long as the brake hydrolics were not opened you dont need to bleed brakes
front or rear.now its good to flush system or to open bleeders when pushing
calipers in when replacing pads.but as long as you did'nt open the system
you should'nt need to bleed.

So fronts are pretty straightforward then as far as rotors and pads?

on cars and trucks with ABS you should place a "C" clamp or another compression tool on the caliper,open the bleeder, compress the piston then retorque the bleeder screw. You can damage the ABS system by forcing the brake fluid back through it.

Always best to replace the calipers, but if it's not in the budget... cross your fingers and hope for the best. Two bolts hold the caliper to the bracket. The bracket must be removed to replace the rotor. Two bolts hold the bracket to the knuckle. While the bracket is off, clean the rust from the area that the pads contact, with a wire brush. Replace the front caliper bolts, you'll need 2 of these:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/2002-Chevrolet-Blazer-4WD/Brake-Caliper-Bolt-Pin/_/N-jh7d5Z8knjf
Also replace the stainless steel pad hardware and boots, you'll need 1 of these:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Brake-Disc-Hardware-Kit-Front/2002-Chevrolet-Blazer-4WD/_/N-jh7d5Z8kole?counter=0&itemIdentifier=267653_0_0_ Use caliper grease on the caliper bolts, inside the boots, and on the pad hardware when reassembling. After the caliper is installed, and before applying the brakes, the caliper should move in and out about 1/4" very freely using one hand. As mentioned above, line lock the flex line and open the bleeder before compressing the piston. Bleed just the fronts when done. Never let the master cylinder run dry. If it does run dry, it requires an ABS capable scan tool to bleed the ABS modulator, and those cheapie $300 or $400 code readers that the auto parts stores have won't do it.

So fronts are pretty straightforward then as far as rotors and pads?
yes pretty straight forward

Well, the fronts are done. Thanks for the help. One question, I couldn't figure out how to get the boots off of the original pad holders. I bought the hardware kit and wanted to replace them. Do you have to buy aftermarket pad holders?