just got a 1977 la sabre custom
italiano89
11-13-2010, 08:33 PM
Hey I'm new on the forum, just wanted to stop in and get some info on the new car I got. It's my first car, and I don't know a whole lot. My grandpa got me this car, he wouldent tell me how much it cost, but it's in perfect condition. I'm getting brand new tires on Wednesday, and hopefully a stereo soon too. I looked through threads and on the Internet but I wsent able to gather much information. Also any tips on maintaing it would be great too. Thanks y'all!
inafogg
11-13-2010, 08:39 PM
well treat it like it cost a lot!!!!keap the oil /filter change regular
italiano89
11-13-2010, 08:43 PM
well treat it like it cost a lot!!!!keap the oil /filter change regular
Yea that ones a given lol
Yea that ones a given lol
big white bufflo
11-14-2010, 04:24 PM
now thats a car .one big boat it has one of two engines a 350 or a 455 v8 4brl or 2 brl carb no fuel injection or electic fuel pumps to go bad they ride like a boat two very ez to work on no big time electronice to go wrong treat it with respect it will give you yr of use its all old school
Blue Bowtie
11-14-2010, 05:26 PM
Welcome Aboard!
And congratulations on finding a real car. With rear drive, a full frame, and solid sedan body on isolators the platform is very stable. There is plenty of room in the interior, in front of the dash, and in the trunk for all kinds of customization if you like. The factory audio head is simple, and installing almost ANY kind of audio system is much easier than in a vehicle with 12 electronic modules, air bag, and more black boxes than American Airlines' fleet. Then again, keeping it in original condition is not a bad plan either.
Does this car have the 231 V-6, 301, 350, or the 403 V-8?
Maintaining? In addition to the engine oil, the transmission oil and filter should be changed at 50,000 miles.
Aside from normal vehicle maintenance, there is nothing else unusual or anything requiring special attention. Remember that you have a 30+ year old vehicle and it might have more issues due to age as opposed to mileage.
The rear axle oil should be changed at 75K and is probably about 30 years overdue.
You should find a lot more grease fittings (a.k.a., "Zerks") on the front suspension and steering, including upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, drag link, idler arm, Pitman arm, and possibly the universals in the driveshaft. They will need periodic lubrication. I like Mobil 1 grease, but any good EP lube is sufficient. Monitor the retention bags and seals when greasing the ball joints to prevent over-stressing and damaging them.
The front wheel bearings are standard Timken-style tapered rollers and will need to be cleaned, repacked, and adjusted at 30,000 mile intervals.
Body hinges and latches should be cleaned and lubricated with 20W engine oil. Spray lubricants are not adequate, and finding replacement hinges and latches for a '77 won't be easy - Proper oil is a lot easier and cheaper.
Body and glass seals should be cleaned once a year and treated with silicone lubricant, either silicone oil or grease. Dielectric grease works well for this. I have a 1986 with all original rubber in original (undamaged and leak-free, including the vulnerable T-Tops) condition and have maintained them thus. Even if it's been neglected, it's never too late to start.
The car MIGHT still have the original catalytic converter if the mileage is low. If so, be aware that they are more susceptible to clogging since they used a pellet-type media catalyst instead of a coated metal matrix core. The best thing you can do to prolong the life of one of these is to make sure the A.I.R. pump, its plumbing, and the air injection diverter and check valves are in working order so that the cat gets the extra air it needs to "light off" and get to proper temperature. Since there is no ECM in the car there will be no warning lights if there is an emissions problem.
The engine likely uses either the M2MC or M4MC carburetor. Make sure the fuel filter is replaced regularly, and use caution with the fuel line fitting at the carburetor since that is an area that is easily damaged. A vehicle that old tends to have considerable accumulation of sediment in the fuel tank, so maintaining a clean fuel filter is very important.
Keep a clean air filter in the air cleaner, along with the PCV vent filter and PCV valve.
Inspect all vacuum hoses for deterioration and damage, and replace any which are not in good condition. Don't overlook the paper EFE heat tube in that process. While you're there, check the cooling system hoses for deterioration as well.
Since the car came with a multiple V-belt accessory drive system, inspecting and adjusting tension and alignment of the belts is another routine item.
The AC system was originally charged with R-12, and if it doesn't operate or requires work, replacing the refrigerant with a different type may be more economical. That vintage also used a one-time thermal limiter fuse on the AC compressor, and they would commonly fail in hot climates under thermal stress.
The front brakes are likely the old style Morraine discs and the rears are likely 11" drums. Both are very reliable, proven systems. It may be wise to changes the brake fluid when practical since lod brake fluid tends to attract water, and water can cause serious corrosion within the brake hydraulic system.
I'm sure some of our more senior members will recall even more details and can share them. Good luck with the new ride. Any photos?
And congratulations on finding a real car. With rear drive, a full frame, and solid sedan body on isolators the platform is very stable. There is plenty of room in the interior, in front of the dash, and in the trunk for all kinds of customization if you like. The factory audio head is simple, and installing almost ANY kind of audio system is much easier than in a vehicle with 12 electronic modules, air bag, and more black boxes than American Airlines' fleet. Then again, keeping it in original condition is not a bad plan either.
Does this car have the 231 V-6, 301, 350, or the 403 V-8?
Maintaining? In addition to the engine oil, the transmission oil and filter should be changed at 50,000 miles.
Aside from normal vehicle maintenance, there is nothing else unusual or anything requiring special attention. Remember that you have a 30+ year old vehicle and it might have more issues due to age as opposed to mileage.
The rear axle oil should be changed at 75K and is probably about 30 years overdue.
You should find a lot more grease fittings (a.k.a., "Zerks") on the front suspension and steering, including upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, drag link, idler arm, Pitman arm, and possibly the universals in the driveshaft. They will need periodic lubrication. I like Mobil 1 grease, but any good EP lube is sufficient. Monitor the retention bags and seals when greasing the ball joints to prevent over-stressing and damaging them.
The front wheel bearings are standard Timken-style tapered rollers and will need to be cleaned, repacked, and adjusted at 30,000 mile intervals.
Body hinges and latches should be cleaned and lubricated with 20W engine oil. Spray lubricants are not adequate, and finding replacement hinges and latches for a '77 won't be easy - Proper oil is a lot easier and cheaper.
Body and glass seals should be cleaned once a year and treated with silicone lubricant, either silicone oil or grease. Dielectric grease works well for this. I have a 1986 with all original rubber in original (undamaged and leak-free, including the vulnerable T-Tops) condition and have maintained them thus. Even if it's been neglected, it's never too late to start.
The car MIGHT still have the original catalytic converter if the mileage is low. If so, be aware that they are more susceptible to clogging since they used a pellet-type media catalyst instead of a coated metal matrix core. The best thing you can do to prolong the life of one of these is to make sure the A.I.R. pump, its plumbing, and the air injection diverter and check valves are in working order so that the cat gets the extra air it needs to "light off" and get to proper temperature. Since there is no ECM in the car there will be no warning lights if there is an emissions problem.
The engine likely uses either the M2MC or M4MC carburetor. Make sure the fuel filter is replaced regularly, and use caution with the fuel line fitting at the carburetor since that is an area that is easily damaged. A vehicle that old tends to have considerable accumulation of sediment in the fuel tank, so maintaining a clean fuel filter is very important.
Keep a clean air filter in the air cleaner, along with the PCV vent filter and PCV valve.
Inspect all vacuum hoses for deterioration and damage, and replace any which are not in good condition. Don't overlook the paper EFE heat tube in that process. While you're there, check the cooling system hoses for deterioration as well.
Since the car came with a multiple V-belt accessory drive system, inspecting and adjusting tension and alignment of the belts is another routine item.
The AC system was originally charged with R-12, and if it doesn't operate or requires work, replacing the refrigerant with a different type may be more economical. That vintage also used a one-time thermal limiter fuse on the AC compressor, and they would commonly fail in hot climates under thermal stress.
The front brakes are likely the old style Morraine discs and the rears are likely 11" drums. Both are very reliable, proven systems. It may be wise to changes the brake fluid when practical since lod brake fluid tends to attract water, and water can cause serious corrosion within the brake hydraulic system.
I'm sure some of our more senior members will recall even more details and can share them. Good luck with the new ride. Any photos?
italiano89
11-14-2010, 05:30 PM
sounds good man, I'll have to figure out what engine it has. I'm having one little problem with it tho. When I turn the ignition to start it up I have to press the gas or it just dies. It runs great after that, idles smooth as cream. This seems just like a minor problem, but I don't want it to be something big.
Blue Bowtie
11-14-2010, 05:37 PM
Welcome to the 1970s. Remember, there is no fuel injection. The carburetor has an automatic choke, but the choke has to be SET by depressing the accelerator once before starting a cold engine. IF you floor the accelerator once and release it, then turn the key, it should fire right up and idle at a higher RPM until the engine is warmed. The normal idle speed is returned the next time the accelerator is pressed. We old farts called that "kicking down" the idle because of the rapid blip of the throttle we would perform in order to drop the idle to normal.
Once you get accustomed to the mannerisms of the beast you'll be an old pro and will do those things without even giving it a second thought.
Once you get accustomed to the mannerisms of the beast you'll be an old pro and will do those things without even giving it a second thought.
italiano89
11-14-2010, 05:44 PM
@blue bowtie
a lot of valuable information, thanks a lot. I will try to get pictures up tomorrow, I'm on my cell phone so I have to find a computer. It's all white, with whitewall tires, but I'm getting new ones
a lot of valuable information, thanks a lot. I will try to get pictures up tomorrow, I'm on my cell phone so I have to find a computer. It's all white, with whitewall tires, but I'm getting new ones
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