1992 Camry No Spark, Replaced Loads Still Nothing


tehyeh
11-01-2010, 07:41 PM
My car is a 1992 Camry LE 2.2 4 cylinder. Replaced ignition module, replaced distributor cap, replaced rotor button, still no spark. The only 2 things I can think of now is Ignition Coil or Distributor. I don't want to lean towards the distributor yet because it's a lot more pricey than the coil.

Here's the story, everything's been running perfectly, no hiccups, no stalls, no problems starting the car. Pulled away from the apartment complex and started driving down the road without problems. All of a sudden, the car just stops, turns off and I coast into a parking lot close to me. Tried replacing the module, the distributor cap, and the rotor button, but none of these are working. Is there anything else that it could be besides the coil and the distributor itself? I thought maybe a crank or camshaft, but my model doesn't have it according to AutoZone. Already checked fuel and compression, both are fine, need help! Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks everyone.

Mike Gerber
11-01-2010, 09:53 PM
Did you check for a broken timing belt? You can do this easily by removing the distributor cap and cranking the engine. If the rotor spins, the timing belt is intact.

You can check the coil with a digital volt/ohmeter and the specs from any manual. You can download the generation 3 (1992-1996) manual at the top of this forum's home page. Just in case, here's the link:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=497839

My guess is the coil. They go often on the first 3 generations of Camry, as these cars rack up a lot of mileage. (You don't say how many miles are on your car.) Also inspect the coil for hairline cracks. When they crack, they short to ground on any metal inside the distributor.

Mike

Brian R.
11-02-2010, 10:21 AM
Even if it checks good for resistance, replace the coil. Resistance at 9 V and at 100,000 V are two different things. You can't test the coil at home in a way that mimics running conditions.

jdmccright
11-03-2010, 11:49 AM
Agreed...check the coil. It can even give a spark (barely) and test barely within the spec resistance ranges and still be bad.

I'd highly suggest replacing with another Toyota coil. Aftermarket coils just don't last and they don't have any warranty. Trust me, I've wasted plenty of money learning this.

Good luck!

aerozoche
03-26-2011, 06:43 PM
I have a '92 Camry 2.2L 5SFE (~138k mi) that had a bad coil. It was a Toyota/Denso (don't know for sure if original). It had been missing and losing power after warming up about 10-15 mins. After replacing the coil (which had a crack in the resin, but was testing ok) it no longer developed the missing like it had.
Then on the first longer drive (45mins) on the freeway (with a 10min stop about half way), it started missing a little and started to get worse again. I was able to get to my destination and parked it for the day. When it was cool it was fine again, and I was able to make it home without the symptoms developing again (no stop this time). I think the stop allowed heat to sink into something electrical and cause it to crop up again. I tested the coil again (not while hot unfortunately) and it tested in spec.
I'm wondering if the ignitor/ignition module could be failing when it gets hot in the engine compartment. I am hoping to reproduce the problem so I can test the coil while hot.
Anyone know if there is a way to test the ignitor/ignition module on this vehicle? And if it is only problematic when warm if it would likely be out of spec when cool also?

Thanks!

Brian R.
03-26-2011, 07:50 PM
There is no way for you to test the ignition module unless you replace it with a good one. It is possible that the symptoms are gone and you don't have to do anything. If they reoccur, I would replace the coil again. You didn't say what brand of coil with which you replaced the original DENSO coil. Use only DENSO (or NGK) ignition components.

aerozoche
03-26-2011, 09:07 PM
There is no way for you to test the ignition module unless you replace it with a good one. It is possible that the symptoms are gone and you don't have to do anything. If they reoccur, I would replace the coil again. You didn't say what brand of coil with which you replaced the original DENSO coil. Use only DENSO (or NGK) ignition components.

Thanks Brian. I'm hoping the symptoms don't recur, but like I said it has happened once since I replaced the coil - only MUCH more delayed in the warmup cycle.
Unfortunately, I have a BWD coil from Advance Auto - I know it may not last as long, but shouldn't it at least work for now if it's in specs? Common for new coils in spec to fail only at operating temp?
Do you have to get DENSO from the dealer? On a quick search, I don't find it online.
How likely you think an ignitor/ignition control module is to fail only when warm?

Thanks.

Brian R.
03-26-2011, 11:15 PM
I strongly recommend that you buy a new coil from a Dealer locally or on-line. Give the parts department your VIN and get the part number. You can search for this part number online at any number of Toyota dealers and get a better deal than not shopping around. Sometime, Amazon.com carries these parts, if you can search for the part number. Ask the parts department what brand coil they are using as OEM. DENSO may not be supplying this part any more. I have found that you need to cross-reference the Toyota part number to the manufacturer's (DENSO's?) part number many times to find the part at a store on-line.

If you search for the part online, any 5S-FE 92-96 coil should work. I think they all have the same part number.

Your problem is most likely the coil and not the ignitor.

I don't know what is common for that coil to do, but it is common knowledge that you are looking for trouble if you don't use an OEM coil.

gjr84020
03-27-2011, 09:37 PM
I had I similar problem, I have the same car and it just turned off on me all of sudden while driving, I replaced everything but the coil and distributor. I looked around and found that the wire inside the distributor cap were being cut and moved by the rotor and making contract with the metal inside the cap. I guess u can check the wires outside and the ones inside the cap. let me know if that helps.

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