Help!!!!! 95 escort wiring diagram?????


dwbailey
10-24-2010, 02:44 PM
I made a MAJOR screw up and cut the wires to splice in a new connector to the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor and forgot to mark which wire went to which and of course the wires don't match on the new connector. :crying: Does anybody have a wiring diagram that tells? The wires in the harness are green with a black stripe and the other one is green with a yellow stripe. The wires coming out of the connector are black with a white stripe and green with a yellow stripe. Someone that has one of these cars may need to, if you are so kind, take a quick look at your connector and let me know which one goes into the right side of the connector and which one goes into the left. I CANNOT believe I made such a basic mistake! I hope someone is watching today and can help. Thanks guys!

AzTumbleweed
10-24-2010, 03:36 PM
Just curious-does the connector you cut off still have the wires sticking out?

AzTumbleweed
10-24-2010, 03:41 PM
Is this a 1.9L?

dwbailey
10-24-2010, 03:44 PM
Actually I had previously replaced it and of course that time I paid attention. One of the connectors wasn't crimped good and the guage was doing what it had previously done (jerked around like it had a short in it) so I decided to replace them with the paddle type and got in a hurry. I just reconnected them with the green and yellow stripes together and the green with the black stripe and the black with white stripe together. Started it up and let it begin to warm up and the guage started moving in the right direction. Not sure if it is as simple as if it were backward the guage would go in the opposite direction or not? Thanks for your as always most excellent recommendations. :iceslolan

dwbailey
10-24-2010, 03:48 PM
Yes, 1.9

dwbailey
10-24-2010, 04:47 PM
Well replacing those splice connectors seemed to fix the erratic needle jumping around. :iceslolan On another note though, what would you think would cause the engine at a red light to go from a smooth idle to a dead miss for a few beats, back to a smooth idle to a dead miss for a few beats, etc? I changed gas stations, ran fuel cleaner thru it and put some HEET in it and drove it awhile. Disconnected the battery to reset the computer and ran it and I thought I had it whipped. NOT! :crying: Doesn't seem to be doing it so quickly now but I haven't driven it enough to tell. Would a fuel pump going out cause that type of reaction? For almost a year now I've had to turn on the key let it click, turn it off and let it click and then start it. If I try to start it without doing that at least once, it'll crank for awhile and sometimes too long until I stop and let what I assume is the pressure to build up and then it'll start. Was thinking maybe the fuel pump has been slowly dying and with this most recent behavior that it is getting closer to dying. When you drive along it runs really smooth. Just has that dead miss behavior when you come to a stop at like at red light. Any ideas? Thanks.

Davescort97
10-24-2010, 09:51 PM
I think the erratic idle at a stop sign is due to faulty wires or plugs. However, you are right. A fuel pump not putting out enough pressure will do the same thing. Your fuel pump is on the way out. Actually the fuel pump should have about 5 lbs. more pressure at start up than while the engine is running. Take the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator by the fuel rail and see if it has any gas in it. If so, replace it. Check the pressure at the Schrader valve. It should have about 35-40 lbs. of pressure with the engine not running and 30 to 45 lbs. of pressure while the engine is running.

dwbailey
10-25-2010, 07:02 AM
Thanks Dave. Gonna have to take it into a garage and get it checked. I don't have a guage to check the pressure and of course there is the time. It's my 18 year old son's car and I am so covered up that I just can't seem to find time to keep up with the day-to-day juggle. :disappoin Hopefully this garage in town will be honest. Haven't used them in the past. My son drove it to school this morning and said it did fine. Hmmmm.......:confused:

dwbailey
10-25-2010, 09:45 AM
Thanks Dave. Gonna have to take it into a garage and get it checked. I don't have a guage to check the pressure and of course there is the time. It's my 18 year old son's car and I am so covered up that I just can't seem to find time to keep up with the day-to-day juggle. :disappoin Hopefully this garage in town will be honest. Haven't used them in the past. My son drove it to school this morning and said it did fine. Hmmmm.......:confused:

Well he actually came back and said he didn't have to stop on the way to school so I'm sure it is still doing it. Taking to garage this afternoon.

AzTumbleweed
10-25-2010, 01:28 PM
It just occurred to me. The sensor with two wires in not for the gage. The single-wire sensor works the gage.

dwbailey
10-25-2010, 02:58 PM
It just occurred to me. The sensor with two wires in not for the gage. The single-wire sensor works the gage.

That's weird because when I fixed the wire that was barely hanging in the splice connector, the guage started working again. :frown:

dwbailey
10-25-2010, 02:59 PM
Well he actually came back and said he didn't have to stop on the way to school so I'm sure it is still doing it. Taking to garage this afternoon.

Dropped it off at the shop. Son said that it was doing that jerking worse when he was coming to a stop. Just hope its not something like the valves or something major.

AzTumbleweed
10-26-2010, 08:19 AM
The two-wire sensor deefs coolant temp info to the computer. Right next to that is a sensor woth one wire. That one works the gage. Let us know what the shop finfs :smile:

dwbailey
10-26-2010, 10:08 AM
The two-wire sensor deefs coolant temp info to the computer. Right next to that is a sensor woth one wire. That one works the gage. Let us know what the shop finfs :smile:

Seems so weird that when I fixed that connector, the guage started working and stopped the erratic behavior of the needle due to the short in the splice. :confused:

dwbailey
10-27-2010, 08:14 AM
The two-wire sensor deefs coolant temp info to the computer. Right next to that is a sensor woth one wire. That one works the gage. Let us know what the shop finfs :smile:

The guy at the garage gave up. Said he didn't have a scope and couldn't pinpoint it. Said he took a plug wire off of the #2 cylinder I think it was because he said it was that one that was the one that is missing. He said he listened to the injectors and that they didn't sound good but couldn't say for sure that is what it is. Said it could be a valve too but couldn't confirm that. He didn't do a compression check (why I don't know) nor a leak down test so can't say what that would have shown. I don't have a guage to check the compression so I have to wait on a guy I know that does to come by tomorrow after work and do the compression check and a leak down test. Also has a stethescope and will listen to the injectors. The guy at the garage said when you rev the engine up the miss seems to go away but at idle, that is when it has that dead miss in it. Any ideas? :confused:

dwbailey
10-27-2010, 08:15 AM
P.S. He said when he pulled the plug wire off, nothing changed. :confused:

AzTumbleweed
10-27-2010, 08:44 AM
I would check the compression, vacuum and then replace the plug wires and plugs.:banghead:

dwbailey
10-27-2010, 08:53 AM
I would check the compression, vacuum and then replace the plug wires and plugs.:banghead:

Thanks. Plugs and wires have hardly 10,000 miles on them so am doubting it is that but you never know. Would these symptoms be bad plugs and wires ya think? I would have thought that plugs/wires would cause a miss all the time and not just at idle. Wish it were and hope it is. Will see what the compression check reports. Will let you know. :smile:

dwbailey
10-27-2010, 01:21 PM
I would check the compression, vacuum and then replace the plug wires and plugs.:banghead:

Just got back from picking it up from the garage and taking it home. It doesn't miss initially when it is cold but after it warms up a bit and then come to a stop it has that dead miss in it. It is SO weird that it idles smooth and then drops into that dead miss then comes back up to smooth idle and back to the dead miss. :banghead:

dwbailey
11-01-2010, 09:14 AM
Well semi-good news and some bad news. My buddy came by and after doing a compression check, #2 had like 40 lbs. Not good obviously. Now comes a sweet trick that you can try BEFORE you result in thinking you have a burnt valve due to low compression. Take the spark plug out and spray some rust inhibitor like PB Blaster into the hole. Put plug back in and crank her up. That stuff will break loose any carbon build up that may be causing the valve to not seat completely. That must have been the case with mine because after that we checked the compression again and it was up to like 140 lbs. Went out and drove it and it was still missing alot when we stopped. Next step that I think helped the PB Blaster do its thing was I poured a can of Seafoam into the oil and drove it around for awhile to let it clean the insides. That stuff is fairly concentrated so I'd suggest half a can not a whole one. Really thinned out the oil. Can said it treats up to 10 qts. When I stopped at a red light it started to overheat a bit so I think that was because of the oil being thinned out. Pretty sure that cleaned everything out though. When I drained it, it was really dirty and I had just changed the oil 800 miles ago. Appears the problem may be in a lifter. The car doesn't have that dead miss in it anywhere near as much as it did. Only once or twice instead of all the time. Gonna watch it for now. From the looks of the service manual, lifters are really easy to replace in a 1.9. The bad news is that when I loosened the valve cover bolts, the middle one broke off in the head. :crying: We tried to get it out and made the situation worse and now have to drill it out bigtime in order to insert a bushing and then tap that. A metal bolt in an aluminum head make for possible disaster!

denisond3
11-02-2010, 06:16 AM
I once had a misfire at an idle that was cured when I cleaned a piece of crud that was almost completely blocking the gap between the spark plug electrodes - making it seem like a plug gap being too small.
As for doing a compression check - wouldnt having a look at the color of the spark plugs be a good idea. If there is low compression, wont that plug look darker than the others? It could also look dark if it was defective. In my 50 years of fiddling with cars I have also had a defective spark plug twice. Both times they tested okay with a VOM, but one of them caused an intermittent misfire right out of the box, the other one just didnt fire at all.

I dont have a scope either, but I do have diagnostic techniques I use. When unable to guess at the exact cause (which may be more than one problem), I start replacing parts until the problem is gone; plugs, plug wires, coil pack - maybe even a fuel injector. I dont consider it a waste of money - since I keep the old parts if they werent at fault, and I at least get my Escort running nice again. For example I recently got a set of four 'remanufactured' 1.9L fuel injectors on ebay for $16 total, just to have some spares. I also have an extra coil pack I got from a junkyard a couple of years ago. It worked fine when installed in the car for a 'check-out'.

AzTumbleweed
11-02-2010, 08:47 AM
Good luck with it :)

Swepstks88
01-13-2011, 04:25 PM
This post may be a little late for you dwbailey, but I own a used 2002 Escort SE. It came with an intermittent miss in cylinder #2 according to the OBD II code. The miss doesn't happen all the time. It happens sometimes at any stops and also on the freeways jerking the entire car and loss of power. The problem: the dummy mechanic who serviced the car before I owned it didn't put those sparkplug wire guides back to separate the individual wires and keep them wires OFF the hot valve cover. #2 wire was touching the cover. Try using sparkplug wire guides.

dwbailey
01-13-2011, 04:32 PM
This post may be a little late for you dwbailey, but I own a used 2002 Escort SE. It came with an intermittent miss in cylinder #2 according to the OBD II code. The miss doesn't happen all the time. It happens sometimes at any stops and also on the freeways jerking the entire car and loss of power. The problem: the dummy mechanic who serviced the car before I owned it didn't put those sparkplug wire guides back to separate the individual wires and keep them wires OFF the hot valve cover. #2 wire was touching the cover. Try using sparkplug wire guides.

Thanks for suggestion. Actually what wound up happening was that the lifters were bad. The miss was still there intermittently after the PB Blaster trick. After I replaced the lifters it hasn't missed a beat since. Changing the lifters is about as easy as changing the oil. Was really surprised. :biggrin:

Intuit
01-16-2011, 12:24 PM
Valve cover bolts IIRC call for 7 INCH pounds torque. Very easy to snap by hand even. Snapped my middle one with 7 FOOT pounds. (not paying attention) Ran without that middle bolt for years without any valve cover leaks. One day I decided to try to back the stud out with a screw-extractor bit from Sears. Worked very well. Came in handy when backing out and engine mount stud on a '96 Saturn SC2 as well. Definitely worth adding to your tool set.

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