Valve ticking after adjustment
Tampa 735il
10-13-2010, 08:02 AM
Bmw 735il 1988:
Car has been sitting for 4-years I have done all the maintenance including the Valve adjustment .012 cold. I hear a louder then normal ticking in the valve train seems like its coming from the intake side towards the rear. I double checked all the gaps several times and they are correct. Could this be a carbon build up, plugs were black due to a bad coolent sensor everything tune up related has been replaced. Before the adjustment I started the car for a few minuites and did not hear the ticking, does it need to go for a long drive or am I missing something? Is there a way to narrow with valve is causing this, could it be the oil tube blocked on the rear section? Can I remove the valve cover and observe with out taking an oil bath?
Thanks
Car has been sitting for 4-years I have done all the maintenance including the Valve adjustment .012 cold. I hear a louder then normal ticking in the valve train seems like its coming from the intake side towards the rear. I double checked all the gaps several times and they are correct. Could this be a carbon build up, plugs were black due to a bad coolent sensor everything tune up related has been replaced. Before the adjustment I started the car for a few minuites and did not hear the ticking, does it need to go for a long drive or am I missing something? Is there a way to narrow with valve is causing this, could it be the oil tube blocked on the rear section? Can I remove the valve cover and observe with out taking an oil bath?
Thanks
lincolnmaster80
10-14-2010, 12:52 PM
Well, I'm sure you have done this probably several times considering you just did a valve adjustment, but I'm going to state the obvious anyway, just in case: check the oil level.
If that's fine, the oil spray bar have been known to cause a little bit of trouble, especially with the "oil spray bar bolts" coming loose and may cause a lack of oil to be getting to the required components.
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/banjo.htm
Scroll all the way down. The first bit is just him pitching his idea, but it's the last picture you'll want to take note of.
Failing that, my next guess would be oil pressure, as you mentioned a blocked oil passage (which is fairly uncommon but still possible) or oil pump...
If that's fine, the oil spray bar have been known to cause a little bit of trouble, especially with the "oil spray bar bolts" coming loose and may cause a lack of oil to be getting to the required components.
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/banjo.htm
Scroll all the way down. The first bit is just him pitching his idea, but it's the last picture you'll want to take note of.
Failing that, my next guess would be oil pressure, as you mentioned a blocked oil passage (which is fairly uncommon but still possible) or oil pump...
Tampa 735il
10-14-2010, 01:50 PM
The bolts were secure and lash adjusted correctly, I did find a post about over torquing the bolts and crushing the oil feed. I need to remove the feed tube and look at the opening any suggestions on this one?
lincolnmaster80
10-14-2010, 03:11 PM
Pretty self explanatory I think. Have a look at the oil spray bar and if one end looks crimpt or flat or anything abnormal compared to the rest of the bar then I guess you have your problem. However, it seems as though you've taken all the proper steps and have followed everything to the letter...it's probably not the oil spray bar, but best to have a look and rule out that possibility.
It may just need a few miles to run itself in. I imagine the timing is self adjusting on the M30 engine; it is on the V12 (M70).
It may just need a few miles to run itself in. I imagine the timing is self adjusting on the M30 engine; it is on the V12 (M70).
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