what is the best way to color sand metallic paint?
Sixx
10-09-2010, 11:23 AM
Hello
I'm use to color sanding solid color paints, but I'm not very confident in color sanding metallic paints. I am wondering if there are any tips or tricks to doing it RIGHT. I've shot some MCW Silver Mocha and it seems to have gone on a little grainy, I'd appreciate any help in fixing the problem.
Thanks again
I'm use to color sanding solid color paints, but I'm not very confident in color sanding metallic paints. I am wondering if there are any tips or tricks to doing it RIGHT. I've shot some MCW Silver Mocha and it seems to have gone on a little grainy, I'd appreciate any help in fixing the problem.
Thanks again
ales
10-09-2010, 11:45 AM
That's easy - you don't sand/polish the final layer of metallic paint (base coat). If your paint is too rough you can sand it flat but then you have to apply one more coat of the metallic paint.
This all of course means that you have to clearcoat the metallic (or mica) paint and do all the sanding and polishing on the clear in order to achieve the shine.
Good luck!
This all of course means that you have to clearcoat the metallic (or mica) paint and do all the sanding and polishing on the clear in order to achieve the shine.
Good luck!
Sixx
10-09-2010, 11:49 AM
after I sand the metallic down to knock any grainyness off, then shoot it again with the same color?
dry, then clearcoat, dry and sand after clearcoat?
dry, then clearcoat, dry and sand after clearcoat?
ales
10-09-2010, 12:18 PM
after I sand the metallic down to knock any grainyness off, then shoot it again with the same color?
Pretty much, but also depends on how grainy the surface is. A good litmus test is to place the model under running water (low pressure) to simulate what it will look like after clear and subsequent polishing (if it goes perfectly, of course). If you can't see the flaws under water you will be OK with the clear as well.
If it is too rough then yes, I would flatten it and shoot a light coat or two of the same metallic colour. You have to make sure that it goes on reasonably smooth though so that you don't end up with the same grainy surface that you've started with.
dry, then clearcoat, dry and sand after clearcoat?
This largely depends on what kind of paints you are using (I am not familiar with MCW, sorry). For example, when using real automotive paint you can and should clearcoat the base colour within 5-10 minutes, basically as soon as the base paint goes flat (matte). If the base paint is water-based automotive paint then it's something like 10-15 minutes. For Tamiya lacquer sprays you have to apply clear either shortly after the base colour or after some significant curing time (search the forum for details, I don't use this paint). All other paints - depends, really. manufacturers' instructions are a good place to start, if available, other than that - ask specific questions (include the type of paint and clear, etc) and hope that someone can help you with those, and of course experiment.
Cheers,
Alex
Pretty much, but also depends on how grainy the surface is. A good litmus test is to place the model under running water (low pressure) to simulate what it will look like after clear and subsequent polishing (if it goes perfectly, of course). If you can't see the flaws under water you will be OK with the clear as well.
If it is too rough then yes, I would flatten it and shoot a light coat or two of the same metallic colour. You have to make sure that it goes on reasonably smooth though so that you don't end up with the same grainy surface that you've started with.
dry, then clearcoat, dry and sand after clearcoat?
This largely depends on what kind of paints you are using (I am not familiar with MCW, sorry). For example, when using real automotive paint you can and should clearcoat the base colour within 5-10 minutes, basically as soon as the base paint goes flat (matte). If the base paint is water-based automotive paint then it's something like 10-15 minutes. For Tamiya lacquer sprays you have to apply clear either shortly after the base colour or after some significant curing time (search the forum for details, I don't use this paint). All other paints - depends, really. manufacturers' instructions are a good place to start, if available, other than that - ask specific questions (include the type of paint and clear, etc) and hope that someone can help you with those, and of course experiment.
Cheers,
Alex
Sixx
10-09-2010, 05:50 PM
great advice Alex, it worked out very well according to your suggestions!
thank you very much for all your help!
thank you very much for all your help!
ales
10-09-2010, 08:20 PM
You're most welcome! Make sure you show us what you're working on ;)
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