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Windows gone bad


googabee
10-03-2010, 04:57 PM
106K/1999/3.5GX here.

Maybe 3 months ago my rear driver side window dropped a few inches by itself as I was driving. Found I can push it all the way down with no resistance. Control does nothing. I never really use this window, so I just jammed some crap in the weatherstripping to hold it up.

Last night my driver's window dropped about 1/2 an inch. Control will lower it, but won't return to the up position. Had to pull it up myself, but it won't close completely and there's about a 2 inch gap. Of course, I need this window in working order. Rain is expected tomorrow evening and the next 2 days after that... not being a handy person, that means a trip to the garage.

I know the window motors can fail, so maybe that's what happened to mine. Money is tight right now though, so I'm hoping to just get the driver's window fixed and have the rear window jammed into the up position somehow.

Not sure if I'd get a better deal going to a regular garage or an auto glass place. Any suggestions or guesses on what this'll run me?

Thanks... I know this board has slowed down but any replies are appreciated!

Smitty's Buick
10-03-2010, 07:09 PM
The windows are controlled by a power window motor and regulator assembly that is sold as all one unit. The cables are probably frayed, kinked, and/or broken. Not uncommon. It is not a really difficult DIY project, but you need to take your time to do it right and not break the glass. Get a Haynes Manual for about $15 (very helpful). The part will cost you about $110 - $120. Not all auto parts stores carry this part, so you may need to call around.
Smitty's Buick

googabee
10-04-2010, 01:48 PM
Just back from the shop. Indeed they say both windows need new regulators. I had the guy just put a hose clamp on the rear one to hold it up, but the front is duct taped temporarily. Charged $25 plus tax for that, which I thought was fair enough.

On the estimate they gave me the $225 list price on the part (#10334397), $80 for labor, though gmpartsdirect has them for $115.

Rockauto has several parts listed under that part number, some well under $100, though I'm not sure if they'd fit the olds properly, if the parts are junk, etc. Not sure if I should just order from gmpartsdirect or take a chance on one of the RA parts. Any thoughts on that?

Smitty's Buick
10-04-2010, 02:27 PM
googabee -
Here is what I just put on mine from Advance Auto Parts:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Window-Regulator-Dorman---OE-Solutions_19160234-P_1262_R%7CGRP60022_1219255573___
It comes with a lifetime warranty and they had it in stock locally. The design is kind of cheap but it works. With the lifetime warranty, you're pretty well covered.
Smitty's Buick

Smitty's Buick
10-04-2010, 09:55 PM
Looking at the RockAuto site, here is what they have to offer. These parts look just like what I got from Advance, just cheaper, naturally. Just make sure you order the right one for the window you need (LH Front, Rear Right, etc.). If you can wait a week or so, RockAuto is a great source.
Smitty's Buick

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=315&partnum=1571835&a=FR315-1571835-460817

LittleHoov
10-04-2010, 11:00 PM
Ive had good luck with the regulators on Ebay also, Ive used 2 of them now (in separate windows)

The job isnt too hard if you want to try and tackle it yourself. Here is how the door panel comes off:
http://members.localnet.com/~jester87/IntrigueFrontDoorPanel/stereoremovalOldsmobileIntrigue98_01FSpk.php.htm

Other than that you simply remove the plastic sheet shown in the last couple pictures. Then lower the window down low enough to get to the bolts that attach the window to the regulator, raise the window back up and tape it.

Then remove the regulator (4 bolts, and some wiring connectors if memory serves) and install the new one.

Occasionally on Ebay you will find new regulators for sale without motors and you can swap your old motor onto the new regulator...very seldom do the motors fail. You can save a little money that way if you can find one.

Tobey
10-05-2010, 01:08 AM
Another fan of the Ebay regulators here. $40 and you have yourself a new regulator with motor. And they look just as well built as the OEM ones to me.

It really isn't a hard job to replace one yourself. 1 hour, tops. I've done so many I can swap one out in 15 minutes.

Also, don't let Smitty scare you. There's really no risk of glass breakage unless your tool of choice is a sledgehammer...

Smitty's Buick
10-05-2010, 07:10 AM
Good call Tobey! Just wanted to stress caution and patience. You are right, this is a pretty easy job. I just tend to use a little more caution than other guys when it comes to glass or electric. :naughty:
Smitty's Buick

1999 Intrigue 3800 167K

googabee
10-05-2010, 10:35 AM
Thanks a lot guys! I think I will look for one on ebay and try the job myself/with a friend's help. I gotta save every dime I can these days... part of the reason I'm still driving the Olds! It still runs great and all (only at 106K), but after driving it for 6.5 years, newer vehicles start to look tempting!

Having said that, if/when I do trade up, I'll try to hang on to the Olds. Mine may only be worth 2,500 or so, but to me it's still a lot more car than that.

busboy4
10-06-2010, 07:56 AM
'99 GL 3.5

Just a little more encouragement to give it a go!!! I have changed several GM regulators and as has been said it is not a tough job. With that said, a couple of things: I understand the cost consideration and would not steer you away from an Ebay product - I have purchased many myself. However, my Intrigue driver's window is on at least the fourth regulator since OEM. I have put in two Ebay models and most recently one I purchased from O'reilly auto parts with a limited lifetime warranty. I spent about $120 on this one. I would kindly disagree as to the quality of the inexpensive Ebay models - they are not as well made as what I purchased recently. HOWEVER, I would certainly plan on the Ebay model keeping you going for at least a year of normal use.

2nd) don't break the window switch bezel/trim like I did. The panel has a plastic tab/protrusion on the top/front edge that tucks under the edge of the opening in the door panel, then there is an attached spring clip that snaps the rear/bottom edge of the bezel snug into the door panel. To remove it, work the back/bottom edge free and then slide the top free. Most used bezels you see on Ebay have that front tab broken off as it is a weak design.

As to the door panel, pretty easy. One screw visible under the "grab bar". Another screw hidden behind the pop off plastic panel behind the door latch handle. The larger screw under the door pull is a Torx on my car. Then you gently move around the outside lower edge of the door popping the "christmas trees" to loosen the panel, and the lift up to clear the trim from the window opening ledge.

Hope it goes well

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