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no spark to spark plugs


bkody928
10-03-2010, 12:30 PM
I have a 1988 Grand Pix 2.8L so why am I not getting any spark to the spark plugs.
was told it is the ignition coil. Help please:frown:

danielsatur
10-03-2010, 12:34 PM
Sounds like a good start!

tblake
10-04-2010, 08:25 PM
Remove the Ignition module and bring it to oreilleys or advance and have them test it at least twice to make sure its good.

If it checks out my next best educated guess would be a bad crank position sensor.

danielsatur
10-04-2010, 08:34 PM
What about fuse's!

3100
10-05-2010, 04:43 PM
test your crankshaft sensor!

valente
10-05-2010, 10:14 PM
Remove the Ignition module and bring it to oreilleys or advance and have them test it at least twice to make sure its good.

If it checks out my next best educated guess would be a bad crank position sensor.
dont mean to highjack this thread but,how do you test a crank position sensor

tblake
10-06-2010, 09:39 AM
I don't really know of any good ways short of replacing them. Maybe 3100 will ellaborate. I was wondering the same thing myself.

If you have a scan tool you can monitor the CPS signal as you crank the starter. If it goes up, the CPS is probably good, if it shows no signal, thenthe sensor is probably shot.

You might also be able to unplug it, or maybe even back brobe the connnector with a multimenter. Set on ac voltage and crank the motor over. If the AC foltage goes up as the motor cranks, the sensor may be ok. This will only work with hall-effect type sensors which produce their own voltage. The ones on the 3800 I dont think are the hall effect type, rather a permenant magnet type which is more like and on or off switch.

Both ways to test it I mentioned could not be very accurate because unless you have a spec to compare it to, your pretty much shooting in the dark.

BNaylor
10-06-2010, 11:47 AM
dont mean to highjack this thread but,how do you test a crank position sensor


What year and model Grand Prix? The 60 degree GM V6 engines like the OPs has have a different CKPS setup versus Series II/III 3800 engines.

'97-'08 use a crank position sensor (hall effects) that is actually two sensors in one. For example a 24/18X and 3X, etc. depending on year so testing and/or troubleshooting will be different. Best way to test a crank sensor is with an oscilloscope but that is above the average person's head or capabilities.

What issue are you having?

valente
10-06-2010, 03:16 PM
no issues here,i was actually just wondering what the symptoms are of a going bad sensor or bad sensor.i dont think i could be able to test a crank sensor.not qualified:disappoin

BNaylor
10-06-2010, 06:19 PM
just wondering what the symptoms are of a going bad sensor or bad sensor.i dont think i could be able to test a crank sensor.not qualified:disappoin

Symptoms vary. You can have a no start condition where the engine doesn't fire up. No spark. Hopefully a crank sensor DTC(s) shows up on a scan tool.

On the Series II or III 3800 NA or supercharged engines you could get a random stall condition in most cases very intermittent. Most of the time no DTC(s) will show. Other symptoms is the tach dips or drops to zero right before the stall and the TRAC OFF light comes on.

3100
10-06-2010, 06:47 PM
I don't really know of any good ways short of replacing them. Maybe 3100 will ellaborate. I was wondering the same thing myself.

If you have a scan tool you can monitor the CPS signal as you crank the starter. If it goes up, the CPS is probably good, if it shows no signal, thenthe sensor is probably shot.

You might also be able to unplug it, or maybe even back brobe the connnector with a multimenter. Set on ac voltage and crank the motor over. If the AC foltage goes up as the motor cranks, the sensor may be ok. This will only work with hall-effect type sensors which produce their own voltage. The ones on the 3800 I dont think are the hall effect type, rather a permenant magnet type which is more like and on or off switch.

Both ways to test it I mentioned could not be very accurate because unless you have a spec to compare it to, your pretty much shooting in the dark.


Gentlemen it is very easy: Crankshaft sensor will have two wires (pink and yellow) that are connected to your ICM (ignition coil module - part that holds your coils) this two wires will be twisted to eliminate electromagnetic interferences EMI.

CKP SENSOR TEST: Disconnect the connector for the crankshaft sensor at the ICM, use your digital multimeter and set it to read lowest V for AC scale, then connect your testing probes to female terminals of the connector and while someone is cranking engine for your test you should be able to see voltage between 0.2 - 2V AC.

IGNITION COIL MODULE (ICM) TEST: Remove all your coils, you will need 5.5mm socket to remove coils only, ICM must be in place and connected. Use test light to connect to connect across the male terminals of the ICM for each of the coils and while someone is cranking test light should flash. Repeat this test for each of the male terminals.

Tblake, I had to explain into little details so that other guys who are not so familiar will know what I am talking about.

valente
10-07-2010, 06:54 AM
Gentlemen it is very easy: Crankshaft sensor will have two wires (pink and yellow) that are connected to your ICM (ignition coil module - part that holds your coils) this two wires will be twisted to eliminate electromagnetic interferences EMI.

CKP SENSOR TEST: Disconnect the connector for the crankshaft sensor at the ICM, use your digital multimeter and set it to read lowest V for AC scale, then connect your testing probes to female terminals of the connector and while someone is cranking engine for your test you should be able to see voltage between 0.2 - 2V AC.

IGNITION COIL MODULE (ICM) TEST: Remove all your coils, you will need 5.5mm socket to remove coils only, ICM must be in place and connected. Use test light to connect to connect across the male terminals of the ICM for each of the coils and while someone is cranking test light should flash. Repeat this test for each of the male terminals.

Tblake, I had to explain into little details so that other guys who are not so familiar will know what I am talking about.
thank you for the info 3100.i hope bkody928 gets his car running.i was just asking in case one day it happens to me i will know what to look for.
and like i said sorry didnt mean to highjack bkody928 thread:p

bkody928
11-04-2010, 11:54 AM
ok so where is the DIS module and crank sensor at and are 3,6 the ignition coil

doctorhrdware
11-04-2010, 07:24 PM
The numbers 3/6 is the coil and there will be two more for a total of 3 coils. The ignition module is the box that the coils are attached to. One thing to check is the wire harness that is attached to the ignition module, make sure that the pins on the connector have no corrosion. That can cause the problem that you are experiencing.

tblake
11-04-2010, 07:25 PM
What motor? 3100 or 3800?

bkody928
11-05-2010, 11:28 AM
What motor? 3100 or 3800?i am petty sure its the 3100

bkody928
11-05-2010, 05:21 PM
test your crankshaft sensor!where is that at on the car?

bkody928
11-05-2010, 05:24 PM
i am petty sure its the 3100also where is the fuel pump on this car?

bkody928
11-05-2010, 05:26 PM
1988 Grand Prix 2.8L where is the fuel pump?

richtazz
11-06-2010, 07:58 AM
bkody928 The fuel pump on your car is in the fuel tank. It should have 40-44psi key on/engine off. The crank position sensor is in the side of the engine block toward the firewall, just above the oil pan rail, a bit closer to the serpentine belt end but pretty much in the center.

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