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bought a new battery, and click click


lorakew
08-28-2010, 07:47 PM
well i have been having starting problems. The problem with my car is that when i try to start it in the morning, and turn the key... it clicks. (just 1 click) I read the FAQ, and there is a thread about starter contacts. But i have a theory...


two months ago, when i would start the car first thing in the morning, i would turn the key and i would hear a click. Then i would try again and it would start up. Well i took my car to autozone and got the battery tested. they said it was going bad. So i bought a new one, (duralast gold for good winter cranking) After i put the new battery in, the clicking went away for 2 months with the new battery. Now the clicking is back, and it has progressively gotten worse. Now i have to try 5 times to start the car before it starts up. it will click once each time, then i will take the key out, and put it back in and try starting it up and it will try to crank, but no start. then finally it will start up.

Since it only happens in the morning, i am thinking that it is the alternator. After all, my theory is that if it was bad starter contacts or solenoid, the problem wouldn't have gone away after the new battery.

Today i went to autozone again and got all 3...starter, alternator, and battery tested while they were in the car. (these are not definitive tests) They said the battery needed to be changed and the alternator was low. So i swapped the battery out for a new one since it was still under warranty. Then i did the tests again and it said everything was fine. However, this is exactly what happened the first time. And yes i did the whole test where i turned on my radio, a/c and reved it to 3000 for 15 sec while it tested the volts/amps on the battery. i am thinking its the alternator since it only happens in the morning. After it's been started in the morning, if i have to start it up later, it starts up just fine.

any suggestions? these tests are driving me nuts. The alternator is 100+ bucks, and i changed mine 3 years ago (too bad the warranty is good for 1-2 yrs). The starter contacts are soooo much cheaper.

danielsatur
08-28-2010, 07:57 PM
Make sure the battery cables are on tight.

Bad cables, connections, or battery can create a demand on your alternator and go bad, it can't charge your battery.

Always charge + have a load test done on your battery 1st if dead, this will protect your alternator.

Brian R.
08-28-2010, 09:37 PM
If your cable connections are tight, the problem is still most likely the starter solenoid contacts. Replace the contacts or the starter with a good quality one. It is hard to understand how a bad cable connection would give a reproducible problem, as you describe. A one-click symptom is usually the solenoid. Poor current to the starter, as from bad cable connections or bad battery usually won't start the car or give a bunch or rapid clicks to indicate partial solenoid activation.

JOET/CAMRY
08-28-2010, 10:58 PM
well i have been having starting problems. The problem with my car is that when i try to start it in the morning, and turn the key... it clicks. (just 1 click) I read the FAQ, and there is a thread about starter contacts. But i have a theory...


two months ago, when i would start the car first thing in the morning, i would turn the key and i would hear a click. Then i would try again and it would start up. Well i took my car to autozone and got the battery tested. they said it was going bad. So i bought a new one, (duralast gold for good winter cranking) After i put the new battery in, the clicking went away for 2 months with the new battery. Now the clicking is back, and it has progressively gotten worse. Now i have to try 5 times to start the car before it starts up. it will click the first 4 times, the i will take the key out, and put it back in and try starting it up and it will try to crank, but no start. then finally it will start up.

Since it only happens in the morning, i am thinking that it is the alternator. After all, my theory is that if it was bad starter contacts or solenoid, the problem wouldn't have gone away after the new battery.

Today i went to autozone again and got all 3...starter, alternator, and battery tested while they were in the car. (these are not definitive tests) They said the battery needed to be changed and the alternator was low. So i swapped the battery out for a new one since it was still under warranty. Then i did the tests again and it said everything was fine. However, this is exactly what happened the first time. And yes i did the whole test where i turned on my radio, a/c and reved it to 3000 for 15 sec while it tested the volts/amps on the battery. i am thinking its the alternator since it only happens in the morning. After it's been started in the morning, if i have to start it up later, it starts up just fine.

any suggestions? these tests are driving me nuts. The alternator is 100+ bucks, and i changed mine 3 years ago (too bad the warranty is good for 1-2 yrs). The starter contacts are soooo much cheaper.

You might want to take a digital volt meter and check the voltage at the small wire that connects to the starter. Disconect this wire from the starter. Have a friend or helper turn the key and hold it in the start position. Their should be a reading of at least 12 volts. If not this could be a problem. FWIW

JOET/CAMRY

lorakew
08-29-2010, 09:39 AM
Make sure the battery cables are on tight.

Bad cables, connections, or battery can create a demand on your alternator and go bad, it can't charge your battery.

Always charge + have a load test done on your battery 1st if dead, this will protect your alternator.


yes, i made sure the battery cables were on tight last night.

lorakew
08-29-2010, 10:24 AM
1) is it worth buying the contact KIT (what makes it a kit??) or just the 2 contacts?

2) I have the 5S-FE, i'm not sure which part it is...

Starter contact kits (8mm ID hole):

Ace Electric # S-5263 (only two contacts)
Ace Electric # S-5264 (only two contacts)
Metro # 66-82104 (only two contacts) (www.metroautoinc.com (http://www.metroautoinc.com/) ,Pomona,California)
Toyota # 28226-72010/80 (battery side)(also1KZTE-2LT-1KZT)
Toyota # 28226-72080 (8808-9108)
Toyota # 28226-16130 (9108-9308)
Toyota # 28226-55050 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-70040 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-72040 (motor side if needed)
Toyota # 28226-72010 (8808-9511)
Toyota # 28226-74070 (9108-9511)

3) what are the brushes they are talking about? i have looked at the majority of the write-ups listed + my haynes, and none refer to a brush.

Mike Gerber
08-29-2010, 11:21 AM
I have to agree with Brian R. 1 click and no activation of the starter usually indicates worn starter solenoid contacts. Multiple rapid clicks usually indicates a weak battery or corroded connections at the battery or the starter.

As far as your question about the brushes; While I don't know exactly what you read my guess is they were talking about the brushes for the main starter motor itself, not the solenoid.

I would change out the starter contacts yourself or have the whole starter professionally rebuilt by an auto electrical rebuilder. If you are going to be keeping the car (You don't say what year or mileage.) the later is my preference.

Mike

Brian R.
08-29-2010, 09:26 PM
1) is it worth buying the contact KIT (what makes it a kit??) or just the 2 contacts?

2) I have the 5S-FE, i'm not sure which part it is...

Starter contact kits (8mm ID hole):

Ace Electric # S-5263 (only two contacts)
Ace Electric # S-5264 (only two contacts)
Metro # 66-82104 (only two contacts) (www.metroautoinc.com (http://www.metroautoinc.com/) ,Pomona,California)
Toyota # 28226-72010/80 (battery side)(also1KZTE-2LT-1KZT)
Toyota # 28226-72080 (8808-9108)
Toyota # 28226-16130 (9108-9308)
Toyota # 28226-55050 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-70040 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-72040 (motor side if needed)
Toyota # 28226-72010 (8808-9511)
Toyota # 28226-74070 (9108-9511)

3) what are the brushes they are talking about? i have looked at the majority of the write-ups listed + my haynes, and none refer to a brush.

You don't need brushes, you need contact kits. Two of them, left and right. Call a Toyota parts department and get part numbers from them. Their prices for the kits are not bad. The kits give you the whole assemblies that attach to the contacts, o-rings, nuts, bolts, etc. Get the kits.

lorakew
08-30-2010, 11:10 AM
You don't need brushes, you need contact kits. Two of them, left and right. Call a Toyota parts department and get part numbers from them. Their prices for the kits are not bad. The kits give you the whole assemblies that attach to the contacts, o-rings, nuts, bolts, etc. Get the kits.

thanks, i will pick up the kits today. fyi the car is 114,000 miles for the earlier post.

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