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98 GP GT 3.8, AC leaking


Wide_Track
08-20-2010, 06:21 AM
Hello,

Our 98 GP GT 3.8 is blowing hot air from AC system. So had it checked, tech indicated system was empty due to a leak found around front (belt pulley section) of the compressor. Due to low on funds and the high price quote, plan on doing myself (first time). Any guidance, questions and/or comments are appreciated.

Note: I am currently doing research to get up to speed on this.

Thanks in advance,

Wide Track

tblake
08-20-2010, 03:38 PM
The compressor shaft seal will require a special tool in order to press the clutch on and off to get at the seal.

Otherwise if you plan to swap out the compressor as a whole, its faily straightforward. Have the system evacuated of all freon, remove the belt(s), remove the bolt securing the lines to the compressor, remove the mounting bolts (2 or 3), Unplug the electrical connectors. When you take your old compressor out, dump the PAG oil out of it into a container to measure. Add this exact amount back to the new compressor.

When putting it back in, be sure to have a vacuum pulled on the system in order to boil out all the moisture or your AC system will literally rust from the inside out. It is also common practice to replace the accumulator any time a compressor is replaced. And while the system is open, probably not a bad idea to replace the orifice tube.

Good luck.

Wide_Track
08-23-2010, 06:03 PM
Hello tblake,

I appreciate the reply and helpful information. I ordered the OEM Front Seal (Shaft Seal) Kit, new GM number: 89079304 (old numbers: GM 2724954 (AC Delco 15-30948)). Also, I am able to get special tools (will update once I have tools).

Question, I still need to remove compressor to replace shaft seal correct?

Whether I remove the compressor or not…I am considering replacing the following:
- The Orifice tube
- The Accumulator
Both replaced back in 2004.

Any comments are welcome. I have several days before kit arrives to consider the options.

Again thanks in advance,

Wide Track

tblake
08-24-2010, 12:40 AM
You may be able to access the front of the compressor through the passenger side wheel well. Yet I think it is going to be way easier to remove the compressor and replace the seal with it on the bench. That way you have less of a chance of damaging the new seal and botching the job (BTDT).

If the accumulator was replaced back in 04, it should be ok still. The orifice tube is a cheap part. You could remove your old orifice and if its got excessive metal flakes, you could change out the accumulator. Otherwise I'd just leave it alone.

Good luck and report back.

rkvons
08-24-2010, 12:41 PM
Hello tblake,

I appreciate the reply and helpful information. I ordered the OEM Front Seal (Shaft Seal) Kit, new GM number: 89079304 (old numbers: GM 2724954 (AC Delco 15-30948)). Also, I am able to get special tools (will update once I have tools).

Question, I still need to remove compressor to replace shaft seal correct?

Whether I remove the compressor or not…I am considering replacing the following:
- The Orifice tube
- The Accumulator
Both replaced back in 2004.

Any comments are welcome. I have several days before kit arrives to consider the options.

Again thanks in advance,

Wide Track
If you remove the lines to the compressor, you will need a new set of o-rings for that connection.

Wide_Track
08-29-2010, 02:33 PM
Hello,

Received the Seal Kit yesterday…a lot earlier than expected. I am considering doing repair with compressor still on car. Removing passenger side wheel should provide enough space to work.

Again I appreciate the helpful information. Currently planning on doing repair tomorrow or following day. If you can think of anything I need to know or consider please do not hesitate.

Thanks,

Wide Track

tblake
08-29-2010, 09:03 PM
Just make sure the system is evacuated before you begin your work. Even if the AC doesn't blow cold and the compressor doesn't cycle, doesn't mean there isn't freon left in the lines. Remember letting freon go into the atmosphere is illegal. And no smoking. If you burn freon it turns into fosgene gas (mustard gas).

Wide_Track
08-31-2010, 06:34 PM
Hello,

Well ran into a problem. The hub and drive plate remover must be unique to GM. Tried using two different ones with no luck (too large to insert and attach). Going to talk with a someone concerning this (see if he has one I can use).

Also, was told that I did not need a shaft seal remover and protector (can improvise).

Wide Track

Wide_Track
09-12-2010, 04:54 PM
Hello,

I replaced the shaft seal with the compressor still on the car. Removed front undercover and side cover to gain access. Place a piece of cardboard underneath compressor and lower it by loosening its support bracket. This allowed for more clearance to work.

Also, I acquired a GM hub and drive plate remover/installer from Napa.

Currently, trying to evacuate the system. When opening the low side, gauge goes to 20 Hg. Goes to 15 when opening the high side. No change during the evacuation. Upon closing high side followed by low side, gauge goes to 2 HG and holds. Still have a leak, will try to find it. I will try to eliminate the compressor first, I do not believe it the shaft seal. Everything went pretty smooth after acquiring the remove/installer.

Again, any suggestions are appreciated.

Wide Track

Wide_Track
09-20-2010, 07:06 PM
Hi,

Isolated two leaks: connection prior to the condenser and compressor casing leak. After doing some researching and price comparison…acquired compressor, accumulator and orifice tube.

Has anyone replaced the orifice tube? It is underneath the brake booster module…extremely hard to get to. Removing all support nuts to the module do not allow enough room to work.

Must I remove this to remove orifice tube? If so, what is appropriate method to remove and reinstall the brake booster module?

Wide Track

doctorhrdware
09-22-2010, 08:38 AM
It is a requirement for the replacement compressor warranty. If the the replacement compressor did not come with a warranty you might get away with it. Since the system had a leak and compressor did not fail due to a mechanical issue.

But if contaminants do get enter the system that is what protects the compressor. I know that it is a real pain in the ass. I replace it in my GP but for the life me I can't remember how I did it. But I am sure someone else here, can give the info to us. The compressor on the GP failed again. The seal failed again.

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