97' gtp no dash or marker lights
biounlimited
08-12-2010, 02:37 PM
Hey all, I have a 1997 Grand Prix GTP. I have no marker lights, dash lights, or taillights coming on. The headlights, Brake, and signal lights all work properly. Checked fuse for taillights and it is good. Also the dinger inside dings fast after key is out, as if the headlights are still on ( when they are not). Any ideas???????
P.S. Just checked and my fog lights won't turn on either, regardless of headlight switch position.
P.S. Just checked and my fog lights won't turn on either, regardless of headlight switch position.
biounlimited
08-13-2010, 01:11 AM
Update......... Fog lights come on with high beam only....... disassembled headlight switch, and plugged it back in. If I jump constant power to the marker light wire, dash and markers do come on. I am thinking that the H/L switch is my culprit. Will try to pick-up another one and try it.
biounlimited
08-14-2010, 10:35 AM
UPDATE # 2 ........ tried different headlight switch, same problem. Does the BCM (body control module) control the switch some how? The "Lights On" dinger is part of that BCM. Wondering now if it sends a feed back to the H/L switch to activate lights? There is a cicuit board in the H/L switch.
olopezm
08-14-2010, 12:02 PM
I'm sorry I can't help much, I don't know much about the BCM and the headlights, but it comes to my mind the DRL module, have you tried disconnecting it? It is under the dash pretty close to the emergency brake pedal, it's a silver box. Here are some instructions
"Remove access panel from driver's side dashboard. Unplug 2-wire harness from DRL diode module (shrouded by an aluminum heatsink). Tape up unused connector to prevent shorts and replace access cover. DONE."
I wish I could be more helpful, hopefully this info might work.
"Remove access panel from driver's side dashboard. Unplug 2-wire harness from DRL diode module (shrouded by an aluminum heatsink). Tape up unused connector to prevent shorts and replace access cover. DONE."
I wish I could be more helpful, hopefully this info might work.
biounlimited
08-14-2010, 09:24 PM
Thanks oloplezm, your idea kinda helped me to my fix. Here we go, got this info from "Just Answer".
"It is possible that your headlamp switch is bad. You should remove the headlamp switch by unsnapping it from the instrument panel and check for +12v power on the following wires with a test light (http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Tool-Design-ATD-5513-Circuit/dp/B000M5ZWBA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1272471041&sr=1-4) connected to ground:
1) Orange wire ( terminal O) should be hot(+12v) at all times
2) Brown wire ( terminal R) should be hot+12v when you turn either park or head lights ON( connector should be connected to switch!!!)
If you get power on the Orange wire but there is no power on the Brown wire with switch ON, then your headlight switch is faulty and has to be replaced. Also see if there is any signs of burnout or melting at the switch connector terminals."
So looking back at the wiring diagram I got off these forums. I came to the conclusion, I had no power from the under hood fuse box (fuse tested good) to the switch (terminal "O"). So broken wire from fuse box to switch. Not about to pull the engine out to trace a wire ( if you have worked on these cars, you know how tight it is). I give terminal "O", constant power from Headlight constant power, terminal "N". Now comes the fun part, with the ignition "ON" the markers stay on with the H/L switch off:runaround:. So remembering off these forums and what oloplezm said, I pulled the "DRL" fuse instead. Now the "DRL" are off with ignition "ON", park lights are "OFF" with ignition on, and all the lights work as they should from the H/L switch. Also now the fog lights turn on with low beam only, as they should!!!!!
So with all fixed, there is some way over engineered issues between the "DRL" module, H/L switch, and park light system, besides one broken wire. I will never figure this out, but my lights work the way they should have from factory!!!! From the H/L switch only, not THREE separate circuits!!!!!!!
P.S. The H/L switch was never bad.......................
"It is possible that your headlamp switch is bad. You should remove the headlamp switch by unsnapping it from the instrument panel and check for +12v power on the following wires with a test light (http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Tool-Design-ATD-5513-Circuit/dp/B000M5ZWBA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1272471041&sr=1-4) connected to ground:
1) Orange wire ( terminal O) should be hot(+12v) at all times
2) Brown wire ( terminal R) should be hot+12v when you turn either park or head lights ON( connector should be connected to switch!!!)
If you get power on the Orange wire but there is no power on the Brown wire with switch ON, then your headlight switch is faulty and has to be replaced. Also see if there is any signs of burnout or melting at the switch connector terminals."
So looking back at the wiring diagram I got off these forums. I came to the conclusion, I had no power from the under hood fuse box (fuse tested good) to the switch (terminal "O"). So broken wire from fuse box to switch. Not about to pull the engine out to trace a wire ( if you have worked on these cars, you know how tight it is). I give terminal "O", constant power from Headlight constant power, terminal "N". Now comes the fun part, with the ignition "ON" the markers stay on with the H/L switch off:runaround:. So remembering off these forums and what oloplezm said, I pulled the "DRL" fuse instead. Now the "DRL" are off with ignition "ON", park lights are "OFF" with ignition on, and all the lights work as they should from the H/L switch. Also now the fog lights turn on with low beam only, as they should!!!!!
So with all fixed, there is some way over engineered issues between the "DRL" module, H/L switch, and park light system, besides one broken wire. I will never figure this out, but my lights work the way they should have from factory!!!! From the H/L switch only, not THREE separate circuits!!!!!!!
P.S. The H/L switch was never bad.......................
olopezm
08-15-2010, 02:35 PM
Well that was weird, the good thing is you got it solved one way or the other. I'm glad the info I posted helped you at least with the newer problem, I was thinking that maybe the N terminal has negative voltage, it should make things work the opposite way, but to be honest I'm not sure if cars have a source with negative voltage.
Maybe someone with more experience (BNaylor, Richtazz, TBlake or GTP_Dad) can shed a ray of light on why this happened.
Best regards...
Maybe someone with more experience (BNaylor, Richtazz, TBlake or GTP_Dad) can shed a ray of light on why this happened.
Best regards...
FragReaper
05-04-2011, 06:36 AM
1997 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP owner with same issue, just curious if you could post the web address in the forumn for the wiring diagram for the headlight switch so I can better understand how you fixed it. You refer to terminal "N" witch I am unsure of, terminal "O" (orange) I have and have power to currently. Even with a new switch I don't have power to the brown wire. Thank you in advanced.
biounlimited
05-04-2011, 03:49 PM
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