Fuel Pressure regulator location?


Indy Monkey
08-05-2010, 11:30 PM
I have googled my butt off and cant find an answer, so I need some help.

I have a 2005 chevy 1500 with 5.3 v8.

Can anyone tell me where the fuel pressure regulator is located?

Thanks for your time

Airjer_
08-06-2010, 10:30 AM
If the injector rail is located on the outside of the plenum the regulator is on the drivers side about in the middle of the rail.

If it has a CPI unit (injectors inside the plenum) the regulator is on the CPI unit. The plenum will have to come off to get at it.

I don't remember what year the stopped the CPI and went to the regular injector setup. but those are your two options.

Indy Monkey
08-06-2010, 05:34 PM
Today I took the new fuel pump that I put in 6 weeks ago back to the parts store and got a new one.

Charged the battery and the truck started.

Heres the problem I have had the last few weeks too.

I have to prime the fuel system about 8 times then the truck starts.

It will idle and miss for a few miles then the motor dies. Then when I start it back up it runs great and I have no problems the rest of the day with starting it on the first try or missing.

So now I am back to the same old problem I have been having but atleast the truck starts now.

I went to AutoZone today and the only code in the computer is for a bad sensor. Bank 1 sensor 1.

Indy Monkey
08-06-2010, 05:36 PM
I would take it to a dealer, but money is tight and I cant really afford a large repair bill.

Any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated.

Airjer, I took some pics with my phone of the engine. I think my fuel rail is different than you described.

Indy Monkey
08-06-2010, 06:28 PM
Drivers side
http://ingunowners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1542&pictureid=9330

j cAT
08-06-2010, 09:07 PM
I have googled my butt off and cant find an answer, so I need some help.

I have a 2005 chevy 1500 with 5.3 v8.

Can anyone tell me where the fuel pressure regulator is located?

Thanks for your time

on the passenger side fuel rail is a test port . hook up a pressure guage you need 53psi to 62 psi fuel pressure . key on engine off..this is the step one with this ..next on the driver side is the fuel regulator. it has a vacuum line to it . so on the fuel supply pipe look for this round object with the small rubber vac line . remove this from the regulator and see if fuel is in it . if so replace it..

replace the fuel filter . when you replaced the fuel pump what pump did they sell you airtex ? if so its n/g..delphi pumps have a better result..

installing the fuel pump can be tricky . some do not install the pickup tube correctly ..with many miles on engine replace the fuel pump relay also.make sure the grounds and pump connections are good ..

Indy Monkey
08-06-2010, 09:24 PM
I replaced the pump thats in the tank with a Delphi unit.

I could not find a filter on the frame rail so I assume that the unit in the tank had a filter on it.

I can not find anything on the right side fuel rail that looks like a Fuel pressure regulator so I assume that is on the fuel pump in the tank too.

I appreciate any and all info. If Im wrong on any of my assumptions please point it out.

Thanks
IM

Indy Monkey
08-07-2010, 11:46 AM
Saturday morning update, truck will not start this morning.

Indy Monkey
08-07-2010, 03:42 PM
I put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.

When I turn the key on it goes to 58 lbs for 1 second, then goes down to 50lbs.

Help....I still cant find the fuel pressure regulator or get a definite answer that it is in the fuel tank with the pump.

j cAT
08-07-2010, 08:10 PM
I put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.

When I turn the key on it goes to 58 lbs for 1 second, then goes down to 50lbs.

Help....I still cant find the fuel pressure regulator or get a definite answer that it is in the fuel tank with the pump.

the vehicle does have the fuel filter in your pump assy.since this is replaced you appear to have the fuel pressure, readings are good


what about any security lights on. it is possible this is why no start.

must get the dtc failure codes pulled. looking like possible crank sensor. this is mounted under the starter motor.

Indy Monkey
08-07-2010, 09:29 PM
The only code that was in the system is a bank 1 sensor 1 failure.

No security lights in the dash are on.

Tonight when I turn the key over it still spikes to 58, then stays at 50 when I crank the motor over. After that it leaks down pretty quick.

Im thinking the fuel pump assembly is junk. RIght now my plans are to take it back to the parts store, get my money back and buy a AC delco fuel pump.

j cAT
08-08-2010, 09:09 AM
The only code that was in the system is a bank 1 sensor 1 failure.

No security lights in the dash are on.

Tonight when I turn the key over it still spikes to 58, then stays at 50 when I crank the motor over. After that it leaks down pretty quick.

Im thinking the fuel pump assembly is junk. RIght now my plans are to take it back to the parts store, get my money back and buy a AC delco fuel pump.


since the fuel pressure appears good. the dtc is for the driverside upsteam O2 sensor as bad. the non starting may very well be that crank sensor or the ECT.. with the ECT it is possible its reporting the wrong engine temperature which would cause the injectors to not open long enough on a cold start. with the cranksensor some have found if defective it to will not throw a dtc code also ,and cause the engine to run very erratic or just not start..

a simple test just to rule out the MAF is dissconnect it and see if it starts. this maf can send out bad data to the pcm throwing off the air/temp signal that the engine runs poorly or not start ..when disconnected it goes into a preset range that will get the engine to start ..

Indy Monkey
08-08-2010, 07:46 PM
since the fuel pressure appears good. the dtc is for the driverside upsteam O2 sensor as bad. the non starting may very well be that crank sensor or the ECT.. with the ECT it is possible its reporting the wrong engine temperature which would cause the injectors to not open long enough on a cold start. with the cranksensor some have found if defective it to will not throw a dtc code also ,and cause the engine to run very erratic or just not start..

a simple test just to rule out the MAF is dissconnect it and see if it starts. this maf can send out bad data to the pcm throwing off the air/temp signal that the engine runs poorly or not start ..when disconnected it goes into a preset range that will get the engine to start ..

I unhooked the maf (which I assume is the sensor in the air intake) and the truck started right up.

The weird thing is I took that one off my wifes suburban to see if there was anything wrong with mine. we have had no issues with her truck at all.

j cAT
08-08-2010, 07:58 PM
I unhooked the maf (which I assume is the sensor in the air intake) and the truck started right up.

The weird thing is I took that one off my wifes suburban to see if there was anything wrong with mine. we have had no issues with her truck at all.

so you got this under control ?

Indy Monkey
08-08-2010, 08:59 PM
so you got this under control ?

Not really, if I unhook the maf the pc goes back to preset and ignores other sensors.

So is it the ECT that is causing the problem or a bad maf?

I do appreciate your help.

j cAT
08-09-2010, 08:32 AM
Not really, if I unhook the maf the pc goes back to preset and ignores other sensors.

So is it the ECT that is causing the problem or a bad maf?

I do appreciate your help.

I would say the MAF is defective. the MAF costs much more than the ECT . so replace the ECT 15.oo . if it still is not running replace MAF.

Indy Monkey
08-10-2010, 09:29 PM
I replaced the ECT and it fixed the hard start issue.

Thanks for your help and suggestion on the ECT.

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