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Clear oil leak?


GTP Version 2.0
07-16-2010, 08:47 PM
Ok so I am still trying to investigate the popping noise coming from the front passenger side when i accelerate when I noticed an oil leak dripping down onto the front air dam. I saw that it was clear in color and it got me thinking as to the color of AC compressor oil. I thought it was brake fluid but I dont see any brake lines in the vicinity, and my SC isn't leaking any oil.

Whats your guys' take on this?

BNaylor
07-17-2010, 11:41 AM
Is your A/C still working properly? It could be PAG150 oil. Check all A/C lines and fittings especially at the condenser and compressor. You can put in some leak detector dye if necessary to help pinpoint the source.

3100
07-17-2010, 01:31 PM
:iagree:with BNaylor since only clear oil on that place could be from condenser, unless it is a splash from some oily puddle.

- also popping noise on acceleration could be engine torque strut (dog bone)

rkvons
07-19-2010, 01:02 PM
Ok so I am still trying to investigate the popping noise coming from the front passenger side when i accelerate when I noticed an oil leak dripping down onto the front air dam. I saw that it was clear in color and it got me thinking as to the color of AC compressor oil. I thought it was brake fluid but I dont see any brake lines in the vicinity, and my SC isn't leaking any oil.

Whats your guys' take on this?
Super charger oil smells like rotting fish in the sun. If you have a leak from that, you will smell it as soon as you open your hood.

rkvons
07-19-2010, 01:08 PM
Ok so I am still trying to investigate the popping noise coming from the front passenger side when i accelerate when I noticed an oil leak dripping down onto the front air dam. I saw that it was clear in color and it got me thinking as to the color of AC compressor oil. I thought it was brake fluid but I dont see any brake lines in the vicinity, and my SC isn't leaking any oil.

Whats your guys' take on this?
I had a similar situation on another vehicle. As soon as the oil leaks out of your AC, the freon follows. I would check your serpentine belt, the pulley on your compressor as well as the compressor itself. If any is/are wet from the PAG oil, you need a new compressor. Don't bother with a re-maned one. It's just a waste of time and money. Get a genuine GM.

GTP Version 2.0
07-22-2010, 07:10 PM
I've never messed with the AC system before. How hard is it to swap out the AC compressor and all other work pertaining to the job?

GregGP
07-23-2010, 06:55 PM
I've never messed with the AC system before. How hard is it to swap out the AC compressor and all other work pertaining to the job?


It's really not that bad, just remember to replace every O ring you have to take off. Usually you can get a whole bag of them for a couple of bucks at the part store.

rkvons
07-25-2010, 12:49 AM
I've never messed with the AC system before. How hard is it to swap out the AC compressor and all other work pertaining to the job?

I've never done one on a GTP, but did one on a 98 Montana. I looked it over today on my GTP. You have to:
1). Remove the passenger side dog-bone (top motor mount).
2). Remove the passenger side radiator fan.
3). Remove the serpentine belt.
4). Remove the compressor electrical connector.
5). Remove the compressor coolant lines at the compressor. Find 0-rings and set aside.
6). Remove the compressor from the engine. Bring it up through the top where the fan and dog-bone have been removed.
7). Pour out all the PAG oil from the old compressor. Measure it.
A). If it is less than 2 ounces, put 2 ounces of fresh oil in the new compressor.
b). If it is more than 2 ounces, put the same amount in the new compressor.
8). Put everything back in reverse order. Use new o-rings at compressor and torque the line bolt properly.
9). Evacuate the system and then recharge with Freon.
Should take about 2 hours. You can get the compressor from GM Parts Direct online. It will come with the o-rings. PAG 150 oil can be obtained from auto parts store.

GTP Version 2.0
07-25-2010, 01:54 AM
Thanks for the write up. I'll start shopping for the AC compressor today. Are there some brands of PAG oil that are better than others?

rkvons
07-25-2010, 08:25 AM
Thanks for the write up. I'll start shopping for the AC compressor today. Are there some brands of PAG oil that are better than others?
I can't recommend a brand of PAG oil. Whatever is available seems good enough. One thing to keep in mind though, is the amount of PAG oil in your system when you are finished with the compressor swap. If it has been leaking out, it's hard to say how much should be put in. The proper way to do the job is to flush the whole system and start over. That's hard to do for the DIY'er. If it ends up having 2 ounces in the compressor, you're probably okay, but if it is almost empty, I would worry about the amount to put back in, even though the instructions will say to put 2 ounces back in. When you are finished, if your air gets extremely cold, you might not have enough oil in. If it does not get cold enough, you might have too much oil in. Did you check the pressures with a set of gauges?

BNaylor
07-25-2010, 09:31 AM
I've never done one on a GTP, but did one on a 98 Montana. I looked it over today on my GTP. You have to:
1). Remove the passenger side dog-bone (top motor mount).
2). Remove the passenger side radiator fan.
3). Remove the serpentine belt.
4). Remove the compressor electrical connector.
5). Remove the compressor coolant lines at the compressor. Find 0-rings and set aside.
6). Remove the compressor from the engine. Bring it up through the top where the fan and dog-bone have been removed.
7). Pour out all the PAG oil from the old compressor. Measure it.
A). If it is less than 2 ounces, put 2 ounces of fresh oil in the new compressor.
b). If it is more than 2 ounces, put the same amount in the new compressor.
8). Put everything back in reverse order. Use new o-rings at compressor and torque the line bolt properly.
9). Evacuate the system and then recharge with Freon.
Should take about 2 hours. You can get the compressor from GM Parts Direct online. It will come with the o-rings. PAG 150 oil can be obtained from auto parts store.

:confused:

I disagree with the first steps. You do not replace the compressor from the top but from the bottom and side meaning you jack it up, support with jackstands, remove the right wheel/tire and then the inner plastic splash panels, etc. Otherwise it will be difficult to get the compressor mounting bolts (front and rear), lines/hoses, or conveniently work on it overall. If in doubt double check the GM Grand Prix Factory Service Manual for the proper procedure.


On DIY system evacuation you will need to rent an electrical vacuum pump and pull vacuum to at least 29 in-hg running the pump for about 30-60 minutes, make sure it holds meaning no leaks and then recharge system with the proper amount of R134a.

On the PAG150 oil you can get it from places like Autozone. Johnsen's Double End Cap PAG150 with UV dye works fine. Note: All later generation Grand Prixs now come with UV dye in the system from the factory.

tblake
07-25-2010, 09:47 AM
...Note: All later generation Grand Prixs now come with UV dye in the system from the factory.

Why couldn't mine have come with dye already in the system? :crying:

rkvons
07-25-2010, 10:43 AM
:confused:

I disagree with the first steps.

Well, like I said, I never did it on this vehicle. The van is easy from the top. I appreciate your comments...

BNaylor
07-25-2010, 10:46 AM
Well, like I said, I never did it on this vehicle. The van is easy from the top. I appreciate your comments...

Your advice was very good otherwise and thanks for continually supporting the forum and being a contributing member. :wink:

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