2003 Sienna Gummed Engine, Power Loss, Clicking

Here's the story: About a month ago, I got a 2003 Sienna with 73,000 miles. It was running ok, but it blew out white-ish smoke occasionally (usually when first starting it, didn't seem to make a difference if it was hot or cold). It also had occasional power loss when accelerating from a stop. I took it to a dealer, and they said they just took of the top cover of the engine and it looked like it was gummed up with oil, probably due to the previous owners not changing the oil enough. The mechanic also said the smoke was blue/white and was probably due to burning coolant. They said they would need to take apart the engine and clean every part, costing around $5000 (I only paid $8k for the van, and so declined).

Since then (over the past couple weeks) I have changed the oil twice, and run Sea Foam through the gas and oil a couple times. It continued to have the same symptoms, nothing terrible, and still drivable (thought maybe it would take a little while for Sea Foam to clean everything out). Then my wife drove it to her moms (about an hour away), did okay on the way up, but on the way back it was making a clicking sound and would not accelerate hardly at all. I met her half way and drove it the rest of the way home. Turned off O/D and AC and it did slightly better, but especially going up hills, I could only hit about 25mph without the clicking sound (hitting the gas just caused the clicking sound and didn't accelerate much more anyway). So I got it the rest of the way home driving with the flashers on. It wasn't blowing out smoke during this drive, just had no power. I did check the oil, which was low, and so added more. And this was only a couple days after getting the oil changed (I don't have a great place to work it on it myself, as I live in an apartment, just take it to Mr. Tire). Left for vacation a day later, so haven't driven it since.

So, it still blows out smoke randomly when starting (and a little occasionally when accelerating from a stop), as of this last time I drove it, and it doesn't accelerate well at all from a stop or uphill. I have not changed plugs/wires, could this be a problem? Is there another additive I should try? I don't know a heck of a lot about cars (can change oil, brakes, belts, etc, and as I said about not having space to work, I can't do anything major myself). Would love to hear some advice from some seasoned car guys (or gals :) Thanks, Ben

If you plan to mess with it yourself.....or have someone work with it.
I would remove the valve covers and physically clean what you can.....taking care to not let anything drop down into the passeges.
I have pictures posted here that may help you with that part of the process.
http://rides.webshots.com/album/576572371kcnZsT?navtype=search

Search around....and I have the front valve cover removal.....then later in the pictures, the rear valve cover removal.
I am NOT a mechanic.....so take my input with a grain of salt (so to speak).
I used Simple Green to clean the inside of the valve covers.
I bought the new valve cover gaskets (which come with or without spark plug tube seals) through RockAuto.....get Felpro's best ones.
While you are in there (particularly the rear) you might as well install new spark plugs.
Use the ones that I list in the pictures.
I would NOT get the 4mm performance version.....as they are only rated for about 36K miles by DENSO......and I am sure that you don't want to be replacing those rear plugs that often.......for a performance gain that you will not be able to feel ( over the 7mm OEM ones).

The next thing that I would recommend......BEFORE the motor is run any length of time.....is to remove the oil pan.......and clean the oil pump pick-up screen.
It sounds like it is 'possible' that it has some junk in it......which could starve the motor for oil.
They use a RTV sealant on the pan.
I did buy a oil pan gasket.......is cork.....I have not found the rubber type.
When you use RTV....make SURE that it is labeled as SENSOR SAFE, if it is not.....it can let off chemical gas that can ruin the oxygen sensors, which are $$$

Replace the PCV valve.......the 2003 uses the metal screw in type as you see in my pictures.......this is improved over the earlier years.

You will also notice that I use a oversized oil filter.
If you use FRAM......I would use ONLY the XG line.....which the over size will be XG3600.
That filter is built like a tank inside.....
I have used WIX and Purolator Pure 1, both in the oversized version (Same specifications, just longer)

If you are not having to add coolant, then you are not burning it or leaking coolant.

The BEST place that I have found for Genuine Toyota parts is www.toyotapartszone.com
Not because they are the cheapest (they are not on the part that I have priced....but close), but because they have the BEST parts breakdown that I have found.
Nothing else I have found comes close......the diagrams and parts breakdown is awesome.
If you order using your VIN.....you will get the parts that are certain to be correct for YOUR vehicle.

Ok, just went out and opened up the motor. Attached some pics so you can ohh and ahh over how awful it looks. So what should I do to clean this mess up? Use something (shop towels?) to physically grab the chunks out and throw them in a bucket or something? And then? Do I need to keep taking apart stuff and clean? Can I dump some cleaner directly in the engine as it is now (Simple Green? Haven't heard of using that before. Did you clean it and then dump in some oil before closing it back up?)? Again, I don't know much about cars, so the easier the better.

Also, yes the coolant level has not dropped. So what is the white smoke? Oil? Thought I would be seeing black smoke then.

Guess I'll get to cleaning.

No, I did not put the Simple Green into the motor.....I used that on the inside of the valve covers......which were OFF the motor....and in my wash tub in my basement.

For ON the motor.....if you can use a shop towel to remove the junk......that is what I would do.
Once you get down to the metal.....a shop towel soaked in Berryman's B-12 Chemtool might work.....particularly on the valve cover gasket seating surfaces on the heads and valve covers.
I would NOT dump a solvent down into the motor.....as this can cause large amounts of that sludge to come free all at once.....blocking the passages that the oil flows back down to the pan through.......starving your motor of lubrication......
The excess sludge can also clog up the oil pump pick up screen in the oil pan....again....starving your motor of lubrication.

I would recommend the over sized oil filter.....and if you want to add a cleaner to new oil......I would recommend Auto-RX......available online.
Other cleaners......I think would cause the problems that I list above.

You might end up needing new valve covers......the baffels in the top of the valve covers are spot welded in place......air needs to pass through the space between the baffel and the top of the valve cover in order for the motor to "breath"....through the PCV system.
If it were my motor.....I would spring for the new valve covers.........because.....I am guessing that the area between the baffel and the top of the valve cover is also clogged........and that is likely blocking the air flow.
The air flow that I am talking about is the PCV flow.......OUT the rear valve cover through the PCV valve........into the intake.......drawing air to replace what is drawn out.....INTO the front valve cover through the breather hose.
This flow draws a LOT of moisture and chemicals (combustion by products....etc) out through the PCV valve......and fresh air comes in through the front valve cover.
For this reason.....the rear bank most likely looks worse than the front.
If the moisture and chemicals are not removed.....they end up in the oil....causing it to break down.....

If you do not have any......or enough PCV airflow through the motor.....then the sludge that you see will develop.
It is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL to make sure to maintain the PCV flow in order to remove the "badies" from the oil.

So.....clogged passages above the baffels in the valve covers......if it cannot be cleaned out.......will cause the problem you are having to continue to get worse.