PLEASE HELP!! Jeep stalling?


weibs75
05-08-2003, 08:28 PM
I need major help. I have a 93 grand cher with 194,000 miles on it. I have never had a problem until now. When driving the jeep sometimes it stalls and then starts back up again and you keep driving. Or othertimes it stalls when you are stopped and you need to start it back up. I had it at 2 dealerships but they can not find anything wrong because it is an intermittent problem and never happens when they have it. Did anyone else ever have this problem??IT IS DRIVING ME CRAZY!!!!!!!!

rjd
05-12-2003, 10:35 AM
From reading other web sites. On stalling issues, the crank sensor was mentioned quite often.

TedM
08-09-2003, 04:40 PM
Same problem, here. I have been through the wringer with this old gal (93 Cherokee 4.0 with 250,000 miles).

I've replaced the Crank Sensor, the Cam Sensor, Timing chain, coil, wires/plugs/rotor & cap and the ECM (computer)! Still a problem. I suspect a wiring problem as I have already had to fix the junction where the injectors tie together with the lead from the ECM. Took me two months of afternoon and weekend probing with a VOM to finally find it!

Anyway, if anyone has a quick fix or a sure fire diagnostic approach, I'm all ears!

knightrider4x4
09-02-2003, 03:52 AM
Your Jeep is Possesed!

John Tucker
09-03-2003, 01:50 PM
Have a 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - have had stalling problems for nearly four years - have been to the dealer numerous times, and to a private car repair shop. No solution by anyone. Called Jeep 800 number, was told it is electrical or fuel problem, they have no record of complaints . . hmmm! Have heard of too many people having the same stalling problem to believe that, but if anyone has any idaes for solutions we would certianly appreciate your posting.

ugly kid jon
09-03-2003, 03:18 PM
RJD is right, it could be a crank sensor, but check the main rellay and the fuel pump rellay, these are parts that last 5-10 years. also if any of you are mechanically inclined you could carry a fuel pressure gauge in the jeep, so when it stalls you could have a lead to go on, and also check for spark when it stalls, and we can go from there...good luck.

spooleffect
09-04-2003, 12:27 AM
I bet you $100 that the problem is related to a bad ground or some wiring prob in the car. People spend SOOOO much money on sensors that dont need to be replaced, all because something simple like the terminals on the battery or ground connections are dirty.

BTW- if you have had a bunch of things replaced and it didnt fix the prob the you have been ripped by a shitty mechanic. Simple tests would tell you if the sensor was faulty, not by paying to replace it.

Catkinson
09-27-2003, 05:41 PM
I also have a 95 jeep gr chk limited with about 120,000 on it. i have had it stall on me repeatedly two years ago. I took it to the dealership and got the crank sensor replaced. Worked great for two years. Well two weeks ago, the problem comes back. it stalls on me some more and i get it checked out. its the crank sensor again so in two years i had to replace this sensor. something is not right. well just yesterday problem comes back. i have some thoughts on the subject from my experience. The way my car has been acting is like this.......I can turn on the car in the driveway just fine. i can make it through the first stop sign just fine but once i get that engine running higher rpms say around 2500, the minute i let off the gas to brake or the minute i come to a stoplight, the car quits. I can turn it on again but it will just stall out again. The way i have remedied the situation for now is by turning on the car and revving the engine at a contstant for about a minute and slowly letting my foot off the gas. the second i let the foot off the rpm's dip down to about 200 or so just about to stall and it will jump up to about 600 or so where it is supposed to idle. once i get to that point, my car works fine until i leave it off for longer than about 6 hours. i agree with the last post. i do not believe that whole problem is the crank sensor. i believe that there could possibly be a small electrical connection problem of some kind. I plan to take it in to a trusted mechanic and family friend this week to see if he can give me some ideas without having to start throwing parts at it. Here is another hint for those of you who say they can't get the problem to work at the dealership. drive very cautious to the dealership and do not speed or rev the engine in any way. Once at the dealership throw it in park rev the engine to about 2500 and then take your foot off of the gas quickly. The car should stall out....at least thats the way mine works. If anyone else has this problem and has found a fix then email me. i appreciate it.

tdenkler
09-29-2003, 01:15 AM
To all. Does prob get progressively worse? If so, change ign coil. I have to change @ every 1-2 years. I've been told spark output on these engines is so hot, it's hard on replacement coils(i'm too cheap to buy perfoemance coil)

Reeves5878
09-29-2003, 02:08 PM
My grilfriends 97 grand cherokee had the same problem. It turned out to be an electrical short. The problem was where the wires come out of the computer on the passenger side. These wires rubbed on the A/C lines and wore away the coating. We took it to four shops and noone could find this. Once we found the problem I put some caulk (sp) around the broke part. This kept the mosture out and made the computer stop flipping out.

Catkinson
10-13-2003, 06:31 PM
My idle air control mtr was replaced along with my pcv valve and my jeep has been working perfectly. No close calls, also there is no more jumping of my RPM needle. it doesn't idle as rough and i am happy......so far. If i do not respond to this post again then you will know what was done to fix my problem. good luck to everyone.

DIY Mechanic
10-24-2003, 09:06 AM
The engine needs Air, Spark and Fuel to run.

There are a number of things to look at.
With that many miles;

Pull the dipstick out and check the oil to make sure it is not brown or has water in it.
This is to make sure your head gasket is not leaking coolant into the cylinders.

Check the Air Filter to make sure it is clean.

Next are the spark plugs. Make sure they are not over 65,000 miles old. Despite the great improvements in electronic ignition, spark plugs between 60,000 and 100,000 are pushing the limit.

And finally what I really think the problem is look at the distributor cap and rotor.
I changed mine at 100,000 miles when the gas mileage started to drop. I was very surprised to see the extremely poor condition. I thought that the electronic ignition would not be as harsh as a points system but there was burning on the rotor tip and heavy gray carbon buildup on the distributor cap posts.

Another thing may be water in the fuel. I would not suspect the fuel filter since I have been disassembling fuel filters for 8 years now and I have yet to find anything in them. Not one speck of dirt. I now rarely change fuel filters unless there is a fuel pump replacement or the gas tank is suspected or is known to have water in it.

hammmy
11-05-2003, 06:42 PM
See my post for info and solution with a similar problem--http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=150308.

Looks like Catkinson has it right, too.

belkt
11-06-2003, 03:06 AM
we have had the same problem, jeep starts ok and runs for about 20 to 30 minutes then cuts out, it takes about 2 minutes to restart then cuts out every five minutes after that (very frustrating and dangerous). It went to an Auto Electrician who replaced the coils, all the censors, and it still had the problem. They sent it to a Jeep specialists who said it might be the computer, they used another computer but different year to ours and it still had the same problem, they said there were no computers in New Zealand and that we needed to get one from Japan (just great, we really didn't need this). We finally went to a third person who apparently specialised in vehicle computers...we had been without our Jeep for about 5-6 weeks and it only took this third and last crowd 2 days to fix the fault. Hope this helps, it surely would of helped us in the first place if we had known about this crowd. Their website is www.ecu.co.nz.

suaige
11-14-2003, 02:50 PM
I need major help. I have a 93 grand cher with 194,000 miles on it. I have never had a problem until now. When driving the jeep sometimes it stalls and then starts back up again and you keep driving. Or othertimes it stalls when you are stopped and you need to start it back up. I had it at 2 dealerships but they can not find anything wrong because it is an intermittent problem and never happens when they have it. Did anyone else ever have this problem??IT IS DRIVING ME CRAZY!!!!!!!!

There is a fuse box under the hood of the 93 Cherokee - The problem will be a yellow small 20 amp fuse (you will know this by removing with engine run and it stalls and fails to restart) - this disables the vehicles ignition control module preventing the vehicle from starting or continuing to run - over the years this fuse can become corroded because it is outside the vehicle and loose, thus the sparactic stalling in motion - the dealer will replace sensors cause they appear to be old and cost you money, but they fail to mention as a safety they will disalble the battery and sometimes remove the fuse and in most cases replace it with a fresh one without thinking that this was probably the problem - clean all your fuse connections outside the vehicle. Try this before spending a lot of cash.

TAnthony
02-14-2004, 05:46 PM
I would like to thank all who posted Jeep stalling remedies on this site. My daughter's 94 Jeep began stalling in the same manner as many of you have experienced. At fist it was stalling once every five days or so ,(and start right back up)then every day then every time it warmed up 15-20 minutes. It was the crank shaft positioning sensor. Sixty bucks and 20 minutes work and Buta-BING Buta-BOOM

kplusten
02-17-2004, 02:37 PM
One of my Jeeps had a bad crankshaft position sensor causing the stalling, but the other two had water in the gas. Something so hard to detect but easy to fix. On my 95 and 99, they were stalling occasionally at lights. Two bottles of dry gas each remedied the problem and I changed where I bought gas. In the winter, I put in a bottle of 95 cent dry gas each tankful, never had another stalling problem. Might wanna give this a try!

Dale Aeppli
02-17-2004, 08:21 PM
There is a fuse box under the hood of the 93 Cherokee - The problem will be a yellow small 20 amp fuse (you will know this by removing with engine run and it stalls and fails to restart) - this disables the vehicles ignition control module preventing the vehicle from starting or continuing to run - over the years this fuse can become corroded because it is outside the vehicle and loose, thus the sparactic stalling in motion - the dealer will replace sensors cause they appear to be old and cost you money, but they fail to mention as a safety they will disalble the battery and sometimes remove the fuse and in most cases replace it with a fresh one without thinking that this was probably the problem - clean all your fuse connections outside the vehicle. Try this before spending a lot of cash.

THE FUSE THAT SUAIGE IS REFFERING TO IS FOR THE AUTO SHUTDOWN ENGINE CONTROLER IT CONTROLS THE ASD CONTROL IN CASE OF A ROLLOVER OR ACCIDENTAL FIRE jeepman600@aol.com

Marsman
10-07-2004, 11:36 PM
HELP, my 97 Grand Cherokee is drivng me crazy too!!!!

Same stall problem: started out every once in a while; now it's often.
Isolated it to an electrical ignition problem...not a fuel issue.

Read my repair manual. Checked wires and coil resistence: all within specification. Cleaned all electrical connections and grounds. No go. Replaced distributor (cam shaft was loose) which came with a new camshaft sensor. No go. After reading lots of posts on the CPS issues, replaced crankshaft position sensor (you have to be an contortionist)... unfortunately, the problem still there. Now, I'm getting depressed.

It's actually out there running now, but that means nothing as it continues to stall at idle or cut out and in on the highway in a very random fashion. But, tonight I noticed that it wants to run after it's been on and off for a while. Not that this means anything as it's gone for days, weeks, months before doing it again, even though it's gotten to the point of daily now. However, I am noticing that maybe the problem SEEMS to be more of an issue when it first runs, but gets better after the ignition system has run a bit...not sure on that one though, but now after an hour it won't stall. It'll be interesting to see how it responds tomorrow morning.

Can a coil, be so intermittent....I usually think of them as breaking down in heat or just failing altogther, but usually not like this? The electrical resistance is right on the money.

Other symtoms: The ABS light comes on and stays on occasionally then goes out if I stop and restart motor. Once the fuel gauge dove to empty and gave it's low fuel warning but went back up. Since then I discovered a bad ground to battery from chassis but that has been fixed and ABS still lights.

When engine is running, if I nudge the ignition switch forward slightly, the ABS comes on but goes out when I release switch. Thought maybe the ignition switch is failing. Or this could be normal. ABS light comes on a lot.

Cleaned, even swapped all relays in power distribution box (they're all the same part number), still a no go. Cleaned all connectors, still a no go.

I'll check some of the leads mentioned, especially shorts, but I'm running out of ideas and have a lot on my plate now, so spending time trying to fix this guy is straining my patience. So, now I'm driving my big Chevy one ton dually truck with it's 454 and it's gas appetite is going to kill my budget at todays prices.

Is there another location for an auto shut-down control and/or relay then what's available in the power distribution box?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

smith_motorworks
10-11-2004, 02:45 PM
Am having same problem. Replaced Crank Sensor, Distributor, O2 sensors. IT backfired the other day and knocked something loose in the catalytic converter. Ever since then it still does it but not near as much. It still gives "Intermittent Loss of Cam/Crank sensor" code.

lukep
10-12-2004, 05:52 PM
I had a problem that was similar to this, it ended up being a small o-ring in some sort of idle valve. The o-ring was chopped up and causing problems. It cost $1.48 to fix it. Pulled out the idle valve, cleaned it and replaced the o-ring. What happened before I fixed it is the vehicle would just drop idle, almost like it quit, and then magically start and keep running, all within a half second. This happened randomly.

This might not have anything to do with your problem, but it's similar, so I figured I'd throw it out there.

elzbeth
03-19-2008, 06:49 PM
SOLUTION !! It was a solution for my 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee stalling problem.This should help. I read the solution on another car forum some time ago when my 98 Jeep Cherokee had the same stalling problems. I was frantically searching the web for an answer! The screws are too long and are shorting out the board inside the ECM. What you do is back out the screws, located under the plugs, on the front of the ECM (husband says they're a booger to get to and they are torx head screws). Back out the screws 2 full turns and you're problems should be solved (just like mine were). Give it a try. The guy who posted this on the other forum is one smart guy!! My Jeep is back to normal after backing out the screws. I know it sounds too good to be true, but it worked!!! Now I want to share what I learned from the Forum Guy with everyone who owns a Jeep. Good Luck!

Triksr4kds
03-19-2008, 10:51 PM
I did this too, and it worked great... for a couple months... then the problems came back worse... Just speaking of my experience, but this was only a temporary fix. I ended up getting a new PCM/ECM and now it's finally fixed. The aftermarket one I got is 'slimmer' than the original and at first I thought they sent me the wrong one. Anyway. Glad it's working for you, but don't hold your breath ;-).

butterj
03-20-2008, 10:48 AM
my gf's pinto wagon stalls when you stop too.

Eugene2000
03-31-2010, 01:21 AM
Had the same stalling problem with our jeep (2000 Wrangler 4.0L). It was stalling intermittently, and seemed to not follow any regular pattern, except that it never died unless it was at idle. It was idling up to about 800rpm, and down to around 3-500rpm while sitting stopped in drive.

Removing and cleaning the plunger and bore of the Idle Air Controller fixed the idling up and down problem, and replacing the PCV valve stopped the stalling problem.

Best way to check and see if this is your issue, I've found, is to unplug the PCV valve hose from where it connects to the air intake manifold, at which point, the engine should increase it's rpms to about 1500 or so. Then put your thumb over the hose barb from where you took the PCV line loose from. It should die immedietly. If not, then you have a vacuume leak somewhere.

If cleaning the bore and plunger of your IAC doesn't fix your idling troubles, then replace it. Together, a PCV valve and an IAC motor will run you about $60-70.

crazydriverz
04-10-2010, 11:17 PM
i have a 03' grand cherokee that does the same thing. stalls when you pull your foot off the gas when coming to a stop or slowing down. however it starts right back up with no prob.

dornier34
04-11-2010, 10:46 PM
Same problem, here. I have been through the wringer with this old gal (93 Cherokee 4.0 with 250,000 miles).

I've replaced the Crank Sensor, the Cam Sensor, Timing chain, coil, wires/plugs/rotor & cap and the ECM (computer)! Still a problem. I suspect a wiring problem as I have already had to fix the junction where the injectors tie together with the lead from the ECM. Took me two months of afternoon and weekend probing with a VOM to finally find it!

Anyway, if anyone has a quick fix or a sure fire diagnostic approach, I'm all ears!
Hi there ok try to replace temperature sensor , cheap 15 dollars part replace and you will se the results good luck dornier34

crazydriverz
04-14-2010, 09:45 PM
i have had the same problem changed the tps.

jjjeepy
06-24-2010, 05:07 PM
I was driving on saturday the check engine light came on. Had the codes read and the result said system to lean. On Sunday drove for about 30 min and parked the jeep. No problems. Was leaving, the 97 Cherokee drove fine and then stalled. Waited for a few minutes. Drove fine and stalled. repeated the process several times. Got it on the highway to blow anything stuck in the system out but instead stalled again. Towed to the dealers and they diagnosedand said that the Crankcase senser was shot. So will see what happens. For those with the ABS issue. Mine was intermitten. Till it stayed on all the time. Found out it was the abs unit. That hurt. expensive.

hundahunta
06-25-2010, 02:25 AM
a crank sensor will cause the vehicle to stall but is more than likely wouldn't cause a fuel system lean dtc....possible your pump is also failing...

anthony510
07-07-2010, 04:52 AM
ive read alot of the messages and they sound so familiar. I have a 95 grn cher. I will driving and it will die and will start sometimes, most times it will not. I was told it could be the camshaft position sensor. can i get some imput, by the way can you tell me where the camshaft sensor is located

juno
07-17-2010, 12:20 PM
I am having the same problem as the original poster. I replaced the Cam shaft sensor, fuel filter, alternator, and did fuel injection cleaning. The Jeep Grand Cherokee 95 runs a bit better but the problem is still their.

Still stalls intermittently every 2-3 days.

juno
07-17-2010, 12:30 PM
ive read alot of the messages and they sound so familiar. I have a 95 grn cher. I will driving and it will die and will start sometimes, most times it will not. I was told it could be the camshaft position sensor. can i get some imput, by the way can you tell me where the camshaft sensor is located

a pic of the sensor:
https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/serviceInfo/en_US/80add427.gif

the sensor is located under your jeep, on the top side of the transmition, angled towards the driver-side. it's hard to see it, even from underneath.

this is how the sensor looks like:

http://i.pgcdn.com/pi/7/37/55/73755871_125.jpg

This is another pic, looking from the back towards the front

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y59/greasefingers/DSC00059.jpg

hope this helps. . . .

ray101
07-28-2010, 02:06 PM
Car accelerates slowly , after reaching hwy speed i cannot accelerate either. I have installed rebuilt engine , crankshaft sensor, pcm, dist, cap and rotor, plugs and wires New exhaust system, rebuilt transmission and new torque converter. The car starts hard. Fuel press is between 30 and 40 lbs. This is a 1994 jeep grand cherokee limited.
Engine is 4.0. I also put new o-ring seals in the injectors. Engine runs smooth at idle. Gets a little rough when engine speed is increased. No codes displayed other than normal. Any suggestion.

skralogy
08-18-2010, 04:59 AM
A lot of these issues seem similar to mine. But there are some differences. The stalling is very random and there is no way to tell when it is going to happen. The first time it happened I drove about 20 miles then it stalled. It started back up immediately then shut down and wouldn't start again. I waited around for a friend for about a half hour then was able to restart it. Theeen it shut down again. My friend arrived jiggled some wires and some how it started and was able drive it 20 miles back home with no incident , it ran great. Another time I drove 5 miles it stalled on the highway, then started right back up and drove fine. Last night I drove 10 miles to work thenalmost made it back home but had to get groceries, when I tried to start it it started fine the quicky stalled, it ried again and it stalled even quicker and so on until it wouldn't start.
When it is running it runs great no sputtering, back fires or anything.
When it shuts down it seems that the tach drops immediatly to 0 before the engine is completly stalled
When it happens it ussually will start then die. And the run time diminishes until it won't start anymore but can randomly start like normal then runs fine
Any ideas?

vegasridercc
09-09-2010, 10:31 PM
Well after having my jeep stall so much and the tow truck companies loving me. I found a Jeep Tech that was so puzzled as to why I was blowing the coil so much that he dug into the archives of Jeep and found that there was a part made for this problem that they do not make anymore. It was a ballast/resistor that ran from the PCM to the coil to reduce the spike that came from other components. Now since he called me and said do we do this, I most definatly said yes!

He has went to Radio Shack to try and fabricate this part that jeep has no schematic for or at least its hidden somewhere in cyber space, and will install this item this week. Once done I will test drive this as it seems to blow a coil when I am on a long constant trip where the rpms are stable and a good load is on the coil. and if it works I will report back and this could be the fix everyone is looking for.

vegasridercc
09-09-2010, 10:50 PM
I also should have added that this is the 3rd coil, otherwise I had already replaced the the crank sensor, wires, distributor and cap, plugs, and had it diagnosed with the shop (1st one) telling me that only the coil was blown and the electrical was good.
93 Jeep Cherokee Loredo 211,000

juno
09-11-2010, 08:50 AM
This is very exiting news vegasrider. I hope your mechanic is able to make the fix work. Hopefully he will be willing to share the info with others. I am located all the way in the south :( otherwise I would have stopped by his shop.

I have tried just about everything I could think of or read online. Couple months ago I just gave up on the whole idea. I have spent over $800 on a clunker, so at this point I just keep the Jeep just for short drives. It is sad because their is so much life left in the car, I could probably get another two years out of it if not for the stalling issue.

Please vegasrider keep us all posted. . . .

Thank you,

-Jay


Well after having my jeep stall so much and the tow truck companies loving me. I found a Jeep Tech that was so puzzled as to why I was blowing the coil so much that he dug into the archives of Jeep and found that there was a part made for this problem that they do not make anymore. It was a ballast/resistor that ran from the PCM to the coil to reduce the spike that came from other components. Now since he called me and said do we do this, I most definatly said yes!

He has went to Radio Shack to try and fabricate this part that jeep has no schematic for or at least its hidden somewhere in cyber space, and will install this item this week. Once done I will test drive this as it seems to blow a coil when I am on a long constant trip where the rpms are stable and a good load is on the coil. and if it works I will report back and this could be the fix everyone is looking for.

vegasridercc
09-22-2010, 11:49 PM
I have driven this jeep after the resistor was placed and had no problems. it is a nine volt so we are just guessing. I mentioned before that the mount was from the computer to the coil but actually it is mounted on the harnes from the battery side to the coil.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n168/breezinby48/jeep/resistortocoil3.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n168/breezinby48/jeep/resistortocoil2.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n168/breezinby48/jeep/resistortocoil4.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n168/breezinby48/jeep/resistortocoil.jpg

fawalley
10-04-2010, 08:49 PM
Had a 96 Same thing. Was the crank shaft sensor.

sassygrl1169
12-27-2011, 12:58 PM
I have been looking over all of these threads and trying to search for advice on my own 97' Jeep Grand Cherokee limited v-8. Every random once in a while when I go out to start it, it will not start and I notice that the battery is dead. When I get a jump or what not, it will start but I need to keep the gas accelerated in order for it to idle. When I let off on the gas the engine dies. As this happened yesterday, after many times of restarting, it sounded as if the battery was dead again but it finally got going with a major sound in lack of power... This has happened 3 or 4 times in the last 3 years of owning my Jeep. I would love any advice possible please! Thank you!!

fawalley
01-09-2012, 09:10 PM
I have been looking over all of these threads and trying to search for advice on my own 97' Jeep Grand Cherokee limited v-8. Every random once in a while when I go out to start it, it will not start and I notice that the battery is dead. When I get a jump or what not, it will start but I need to keep the gas accelerated in order for it to idle. When I let off on the gas the engine dies. As this happened yesterday, after many times of restarting, it sounded as if the battery was dead again but it finally got going with a major sound in lack of power... This has happened 3 or 4 times in the last 3 years of owning my Jeep. I would love any advice possible please! Thank you!!

Hi Sassy. As far as the engine dying after you get jumped, the IAC ( Idle Air Control ) has to relearn where the idle is. The computer sets the idle to around 650 rpm. When I have the same problem as you I hold the rpm's at 1000 for a little bit letting the battery get a charge. Then, I'll very slowly reduce the rpm's trying not to let it fall below 500 till the IAC takes over. It may take a minute. As far as why the battery dies the possibilities could be endless. I will say, most auto part stores will test your battery for free. If it's nearing 4 or 5 years old I'd get it replaced and have the charging system checked out. Good Luck

Ronaldobhoy7
03-09-2012, 11:32 AM
I have an issue if anyone can help? I have a 2002 Grand Cherokee which starts from cold without a problem and runs smoothly. However, if I turn the engine off and wait 10-20 mins then turn it back on, the engine runs roughly and after a couple of minutes it stalls. Once this happens, I switch the engine back on and it runs smoothly again without a problem.

cinemafx
11-09-2012, 02:39 PM
I have a 95 4.0 Laredo. It has very similar symptoms.The problem started while climbing a logging road. Fueled Jeep first. Slowing to go through washout ditches it stalled a couple of times. We had to climb over a snow covered section. Took 5 good runs at the hill and the Jeep was trying to buck and stall but would keep going. I thought it was a fuel filter problem. On the way down the hill stalling problem continued
through the ditches. Highway return was without any problems. Next day problem was back and it there all the time.

Symptoms- Traveling at say 30 mph and apply the brakes hard the motor will stall at say 10 mph before coming to a complete stop. The motor cuts out rather than stumbling to a halt.
- Slowing to say 3-5 mph and making a right angle turn and motor will stall basically at the apex of the turn.
- Engine Vacuum 15lbs at idle and cruising speed. Seems low to me.

I have since replaced fuel filter, TPS (needed one for a while) and checked and cleaned all sensor connections and applied dialectic grease to them all. Put in injector cleaner but I have only driven it say 30 miles since putting it in.
Any input would be appreciated.

lancerooney
01-29-2014, 12:09 AM
I had the exact same poor idle quality and stalling during warm up and random stalling at stops with my 93 Grand Cher. I have meticulously maitained the vehicle for many years so already have gone through the ECM/PCM screw prep,IAC,CPS,etc... I found that the evap. canister located behind the driver's side headlight assembly had come apart. There are 3 vacuum lines (2 large and 1 small diameter) attached to this. The top (small port) had seperated from the main body (2 larger ports) exposing the rubber diphram,retainer cap,and allowed a major vacuum leak. A'la high idle, surging engine rpm, and stalling under load at idle in gear. The computer compensates very well after going into closed loop. The engine would stumble and act as if it were going to stall at stops after warm up, but catch itself and overcome. I live in a small beach community so we do not have heavy traffic this time of year or it would probably have had a stall fest. I used 3M weather strip adhesive to reattach and secure the top and diaphram to the main body. let it set up overnight and reinstalled the grill bracing and headlights as one long assembly this morning and no issues at all.....thus far.

cinemafx
01-29-2014, 01:05 AM
I had the exact same poor idle quality and stalling during warm up and random stalling at stops with my 93 Grand Cher. I have meticulously maitained the vehicle for many years so already have gone through the ECM/PCM screw prep,IAC,CPS,etc... I found that the evap. canister located behind the driver's side headlight assembly had come apart. There are 3 vacuum lines (2 large and 1 small diameter) attached to this. The top (small port) had seperated from the main body (2 larger ports) exposing the rubber diphram,retainer cap,and allowed a major vacuum leak. A'la high idle, surging engine rpm, and stalling under load at idle in gear. The computer compensates very well after going into closed loop. The engine would stumble and act as if it were going to stall at stops after warm up, but catch itself and overcome. I live in a small beach community so we do not have heavy traffic this time of year or it would probably have had a stall fest. I used 3M weather strip adhesive to reattach and secure the top and diaphram to the main body. let it set up overnight and reinstalled the grill bracing and headlights as one long assembly this morning and no issues at all.....thus far.

I changed the cps and it has stopped stalling. Still rough idle though. I will have a look at your suggestion. Thanks for responding.

bhunter866
06-22-2014, 05:03 PM
I have a 96 jeep grand cherokee loredo that started sputtering n backfiring n would not respond to throttle half the time. It got so bad that it was either pedal to the floor or nnothing. Went on for a week n then checked the connnection to the fuel pump. It was worn out n had a lil ccorrosion on it so i closed the female holes and connected it back together. Havent had a problem since.

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