Heater hoses

If anyone can help me here, I want to put a flush and fill kit on my 2000 venture extended with rear air and heat.. The haynes book doesn't have anything in there about this , no diagram of the hoses or pics( I realize haynes wouldn't show how to hook this up).. But I am looking for a diagram or pic on the heater hoses so I can install this kit, or if you think this is too much of a 'pita' on this 2000 venture, any ideas or help ?
Thanks in advance for your time and knowledge...

ok, there is a heater hose that leads to a pump(looks like a pump) by the overflow tank, can I install the flush kit into this hose? Anyone have any experience with this?

Here are the hoses that I was referring to. I believe they are to the rear heat, but I am not sure. I want to disconnect them and put a TEE in there and reconnect, will this work? Any, ANY thoughts at all?
And what is it that they are connected to?

39422

I believe those hoses ARE to the rear heater core and the thing they are connected to is the shut-off valve to stop the flow of hot coolant to the heater core when you are running the A/C. Those are probably the most convenient hoses to connect the "T" into so I would go for it. Unless you are trying to reverse flush the system it won't really matter where the "T" goes, the coolant will flow where it needs to. If you are running the engine while flushing the system it really won't matter since you won't be able to reverse the flow of the water pump. I say splice the "T" in and try it. You will need to run the engine so the heater control valves stay open and allow coolant to flow to the heater cores.

Thank you dewaynep, I am going to try that with a twist.. I am going to disconnect both hoses fromm the valve and connect them together with the T before I go slicing any hoses.. I'll let you know what happens..

Sorry for taking so long to post this update
I bypassed the shut-off valve to the rear heater with the T. Flushed the cooling system with water.
Burped the 2 bleeders on the tstat housing and the other one by the water pump, then I poured water in the T until both bleeders had liquid coming out, closed the bleeders, topped off the T with water and capped it..
Ran it for about 20 minutes, reflushed, added 'Peak Super flush and cleaner' to the system,(3 to 6 hrs of normal driving time required)..Burped it again..
First half hour of driving, the temp went up past the 3/4 mark.Burped the system..
Next day. Drove for another 1.5 hours and the gauge only went a tick above half and stayed there..
Next day.Burped the system again, brought reservoir to the line.. Uninstalled the T..Drove for 30 minutes. As soon as it went past half, it went back down, back up, back down, etc...
Seems to be working correctly at this time, but I am going to keep following the directions on the Peak bottle(3 to 6 hrs).. 2.5 hrs total driving time so far..
Next day, One more hour of driving time, still running great.. 3.5 hrs total.. Burped it again..
Running great now, So I flushed the system again and drained, added the right amount of coolant and kept burping until all air was gone.. The van is running just fine, but I have to keep burping the system.. I now suspect a head gasket..That is probably why the dexcool was so bad(with all the air getting in the cooling system).
I am ready to give up on this van and drive it to the nearest salvage yard...

I'm not familiar with rear heat since my Venture doesn't have it. But it definitely sounds like something is letting air into the system and you need to find it. Has the coolant level dropped in the overflow tank that you can see? Do you see or hear any coolant leaks? If not, try this: remove the front spark plugs and see if one is coated crusty white. This would indicate coolant being burned in that cylinder, hence a head gasket leak. If the front three look good then you could try getting to the rear plugs (arghh). I had the same symptoms you described and confirmed a head gasket failure when I found the #1 plug to be covered in coolant by-product. I also found a cooling system pressure tester to be INVALUABLE, rented free from Advance Auto Parts (available at others too). Just hook up to radiator filler neck (engine cold), pump up to max system pressure and watch the guage. If it drops, even very slowly, it's telling you there is a leak. Any external leak will be obvious, as you will hear it spraying out fluid and air. You can touch around the engine and get down close to look without getting burned - nice! If you don't see or hear anything leaking and the guage drops, then the leak is internal, either head gasket or intake manifold gasket. An intake manifold gasket leaking internally will seep coolant into the oil and cause engine damage if allowed to go on.

Hopefully you just had an unusual volume of air to bleed out but it looks as if you may need to pursue a few other avenues to fix this. Don't hesitate to ask more questions if you need further help.

Peace.

Mike

Thanks Mike

I do know about the coolant in the oil problem, I found out the hard way with the first engine at 48k. $4000 later with no help from GM I had a new motor installed..

I do have the code popping up for the #2 cylinder misfire, so I suspect the head gasket problem is right there..

It's a shame about this van, because it rides and drives great even after 144k on it..

I dont really want to tackle this job(big job with no time or garage).. I am going to try Bars head-gasket stop leak and see what happens, I know it may make it worse(blocking the radiator or heater core or other ports), but I am just tired of working on this thing.

Sorry to sound like I've given up, but I'm just blowing off steam(no pun intended)...

Pull the #2 plug (front passenger side plug) and compare it to #4 its neighbor.