Brake Job

I am working on a 97 GP SE with I think like 157k odd miles.

1)I have never run it to this ever before. I was replacing the rear rotors along with the caliper bracket. The rotor thickness(where the pads touch the rotor) will not let me tighten the bracket to the proper spec. If I do the replacement rotor will not spin, even with the wheel on. I am not able to turn it with the wheel on. Has any one ever had a problem like this.

On to problem 2.
2) what is the easiest way to remove the track bar from where it connects to, I guess it is the u-channel. There is not much room between the tire pan and the bolt head.:runaround: I already was able to get the screw and bolt from the mount on the where the caliper bracket attach's to(do not know what the part is called). That bolt came off real easy. Did not have to use PB Blaster on that one.

what brand rear brake parts (including the bracket if you purchased new ones) did you by and what were the part numbers (to be sure you got the right stuff)?

I actually went to Autozone and that is I used last time. The numbers from the old rotors are the same. The caliper bracket was the orginal GM part and those numbers are the same. That was the first thing that I thought too. But since the numbers match so I think that the rotor is the problem. There suggestion was to cut the rotor down so it will fit. I told the parts monkey that is unacceptable since it is a new rotor. New rotors should not have to be cut down to fit. I am going to maybe to Nappa or even Advanced which has Wagner and Wearever. So hopefully going to Nappa or Advance will cure my problem. If not then I will have to either cut down the new rotors, or maybe order the rotors online. Any suggestion of where to order the rotors from? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

I have raybestos brand on my car on all 4 corners and they fit just fine. Last set I had was the premium ones that advance carries. They also fit fine. You are right that there is no reason you should have to turn new rotors to shave them down to fit. That would be pointless.

There is not enough material on the rear rotors on these cars to cut them down to fit...what an ultra-moron! Maybe the ones you bought were just cut wrong or mis-boxed?

Well I exchanged the rotors and it appears that the Cardone caliper bracket is the issue. The bracket when tightened the front part of the bracket where the pads ride on the bracket hit the rotor so you can't turn the rotor. I don't know how I missed that one. But I did. The width of the bracket is not correct. I am looking for my micrometer to measure the brackets and see where the problem lyes. I am thinking it might be the mounting area for the bracket that has been trimmed down to much. I am going to try a washer and see if that helps. If that does I am going to return them, and try Nappa and if theirs have that same problem I guess I will have to hit the

just a thought......check E brake cable might be hanging up causing it to apply
e-brake. disconnect cable to see if that helps.
Good Luck

For reference, the Cardone caliper bracket number for the rear of your car is 14-1135, just in case the parts monkey looked up the wrong part number.

For reference, the Cardone caliper bracket number for the rear of your car is 14-1135, just in case the parts monkey looked up the wrong part number.

Yes Rich that is the same number as what I got. The numbers that were stamped into the brackets are the same on the old one and the new one. I ended up getting grade 8 washers and had to use 3 washers to center the caliper bracket. So at least the rotor spins easily with no pads install. With the new pads install it has resistance, which is to be expected. So I am going back out to do the drivers side now. I am hoping that I do not run into any more problems. Cars are just like computers a real pain :banghead:.

I am not sure its a good idea to run the washers in there.....

I would return the brackets if they do not fit right.

Well guess what, the other bracket is screwed up too, I will never ever buy any CARDONE CRAP again. The bracket that I installed on the drivers side rear, is causing the wheel not to turn. The bracket mounting holes have been drilled off center, and when you tighten the bracket screws it hits the top of the rotor. I will be calling the dealership and get the caliper bracket from then. That way I know they will fit right. The price that the parts department was Like $65.50 each.

I have never had a brake job ever take this long. I started at 10:00AM and stopped at like 6:45PM. This has been a real pain in my ass. Time to send a nasty email off to Cardone.

that is crazy

I was replacing the rear rotors along with the caliper bracket.

Why are you changing the caliper bracket?

Because the caliper slide pin rusted off inside the caliper bracket, I was not able to remove what was left in the caliper bracket.

I got a response from Cardone, they are trying to tell me that I got the wrong part from Autozone. Even after I told them that all the numbers even the ones that are stamped in the bracket were the same. So I am now going to take pictures and send a respond back and include the pictures that I am going to take.

Well I sent a reply back to cardone along with pictures. I also order the caliper bracket from the dealership. They will be here tomorrow. So I will finally get the rear brakes. Then I will try to remove the track bars on both sides, and install them. Then replace the broken trailing arm on the drivers side. I got pbbuster.

But when I was at the Harley Davidson shop the have freeze spray that is for getting rusted bolts off of screws. Does anyone know how well it works. Also is it worth the price?

I was going to do the brakes on the gp but the wifes Explorer front brakes started to act up. What a unpleasant adventure with the retarded parts monkeys at Autozone. I ended up having to go to 4 stores to in order to find the right caliper bracket. The Dorman bracket that they have in stock is the wrong one. I also replaced the front rotors too. So it has been a very frustrating day to say the least. Just a big pain in the ass and my lower back also.

Here is the reply that I recrived from Cardone.

Stanley Choynacky <SChoynacky@cardone.com> wrote: I come up with a part number 14-1104.

Thats all they had to say? sheesh.

Yes that was it. Did not seem to get, that the caliper brackets were absolute crap. The one caliper had gouge marks where it bolts the car. I take a Dorman or Wagner and BWD over cardone any time.

Well I got the passenger rear caliper bracket back on and guess what the one from the dealer fit with no problems.

Well I have the acetylene torch and I am going to heat the track bar bolt and nut. Hopefully I will get the bolts and the nuts off.

Check my alignment thread.

But when I was at the Harley Davidson shop the have freeze spray that is for getting rusted bolts off of screws. Does anyone know how well it works. Also is it worth the price?

Being a Harley owner, I can say this. Why would a Harley dealership have something for seized bolts? With as often as you have to retighten everything from vibrating loose, how can they get seized?

Being a Harley owner, I can say this. Why would a Harley dealership have something for seized bolts? With as often as you have to retighten everything from vibrating loose, how can they get seized?

We are Harley owners also. I have a Harley trike and the wife has a sportster and I could not tell you why that is. But you're right I have to retorque all the bolts and nuts once every other month.

Thank God I am finally done with all the suspension and the brakes. I did not know where the track bar mounts to the car that it can be removed from the under the car. It made it so much easier to remove the track bars. I had to also replace the trailing arm on the passenger side also. It was bent at the mounting plate that attaches to the car.

Good to hear you got the brakes done. On the Harley part, my 01 Fatboy has been bulletproof dependable. I have no issues at all with my bike, just normal maintenance, turn the key, and ride. My dad's old 77 Sporty he had back in the day, now that bike was a pile!!! When it ran, it really ran, but that wasn't very often. The AMF years for Harley is where 90% of the jokes come from, and most were correct. My bike doesn't vibrate excessively (I say that because all V-twins vibrate), doesn't "mark it's spot" with oil, and has never let me down or left me stranded.

My wife Sportster never did until she had a local HD stealership worked on her bike. She had it painted it a pearl green and had a bigger tank. Well to find out the tank was not a Harley tank but a jap piece of junk. When the tank was painted, paint over spray was in the tank. The tank also had rust in it. Needless to say it did a number on the carb. I tried several times to rebuilt the carb but I could not get the bike to idle. So the bike was brought into another dealer in Indiana and $1k later it is running, they had to rebuild the whole carb. We are also talking to our attorney about paying for Harley parts but not getting them. So we will see what becomes of the letters sent to that stealership.

Are you sure you installed the cardone caliper brackets on the correct side if the mounting flange...having worked in oem automotive manufacturing, this severe of a discrepancy seems highly unlikely...

Are you sure you installed the cardone caliper brackets on the correct side if the mounting flange...having worked in oem automotive manufacturing, this severe of a discrepancy seems highly unlikely...

Yes, I tried the one caliper bracket that the width was too small, on both sides of the car. It was mounted properly, but had the same results on both sides of the car. The width of the bracket was too small. This would cause the rotor not to spin. The front of bracket would touch the front side of the rotor. The other rotor bracket the height was too low, so much so that it would ride on the top of the rotor. I also tried that on both sides of the car with the same results.

Wow that is really bad...Chinese made I'm sure...