Tried a new glue today

(Just started a seperate thread about this......taken from one of my others)

I tryed this new glue today from the model shop in town and it puts the Tamiya stuff to shame...and only half the price !!
It's a water like glue. You assemble the parts together first (unpainted), then you use a brush to brush the glue on. Now being like water it travels along the join line. You hold it together for 30secs and its done.....fantastic !!
Its great for doing engine halfs. Put the engine halfs together, brush the glue on, watch it flow along the join line and its done. You can then sand the join line after 2-3 minutes and it works almost like a small putty filler giving a perfect "no seam line finish"
The only sad thing about this glue is that it is only made by the model shop i visit at home here.
The other good thing about it is that when you have finished you can brush the remaining glue over you fingers and blow on it and it evaporates away with no sign of any marks on your skin...or just blow on the paint brush, then you can use it for painting !!
The Tamiya EVO im doing....i assembled the whole body with it before painting etc (Front and rear bumbers and skirts)
This is the stuff here...
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/176307DSCF1261.JPG

wow thats seems impressive

nice find!:D

MILF-ix :lol2:

Originally posted by Vyacheslav
MILF-ix :lol2:


yea but what does the IX stand for :rolleyes:

sound sweet!! , does it smear the paint at all?

MILF-ix
haha
better than my carzy glue:) I only use it for engines andother stuff I glue before I paint tho. Except I always have crusty fingers.:hehehe:

Is that address on the bottle the address of the hobby shop? :)

Also what's the price? Could be worth making a trip up to Palmy for ;).

Originally posted by RaceMySS_454



yea but what does the IX stand for :rolleyes:
forget about that part for a while :hehe:

methinks Pman could make some $$$ reselling this glue on teh internet :D

Sounds a lot like the Tenax and Ambroid ProWeld I use. But you're right, liquid cements offer incredible results. Three years ago, Scale Auto Enthusiast did an article on a build-up of Revell's Austin-Healey 100-6 that showed using liquid cement to get a seamless multipiece body without putty. It was sweet. ^_^

Oh yeah, many experienced mecha builders have been using liquid glue to get rid of seam lines. If you've done any Gundam kits thats not MG or PG, then you know what I mean - 90% of the pieces have seam lines. Ever since I've moved on to cars, I can't say I've missed puttying every piece;)

yup that stuff sounds like Tenax, its the best plastic welder ive ever used. its not actually a cement though, its more like plastic solvent. plastic cements usually leaves a residue behind gluing the parts together. where as the solvent will disolve and liquify the plastic, fusing the joints together directly from plastic to plastic with no gluing agent in between.

wow this thread seems to be kicking off very fast

This liquid Tenax sounds good!

Any links or more info on this?

Don't get high off it P-man!!:eek: :eek: :eek:

Nvm, I did a research and came across this. Didnt know such things exist :P

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/172518tenaxjpg.jpg

This is TENAX-7R, the Space Age Plastic Welder(Glue). Clear Colored Liquid Super Fast-Dry Formula, One Drop Welds A Seam, FAST Excellent For Plastic Models and Plastic Sheets How To Use Carefully Align Parts Apply TENAX-7R Directly To The Joint, One Drop At A Time (Use Sparingly) TENAX-7R Will instantly Spread Across The Joint, Hold Together for 10 Seconds. Includes One 1-Fluid Ounce Bottle.

Part #: 12TNX01
$3.99

But, is it any better than Liquid-poly or Testor liquid cement? They've been available for years, and do a great job welding parts. (Tamiya has a similar one, too.)

i've been using plastistruct bondene glue which works the same the tenax. i haven't tried the tenax but i've used the bondene for all my projects dating back to when i was doing gundam and sci-fi models. the bondene stuff contains dichloromethane which is known to the state of california to cause cancer. all items know to cause cancer or potential to cause cancer has to, by law, state that it does so on the label. so... i don't know what tenax or p-man's source for this new liquid glue contains but any solvent that can evaporate that quick and melt plastic may certainly enter your bloodstream through your skin and cause undocumented harm. so just be careful using this stuff and don't arbitrarily pour some excess glue on your hand just to see it evaporate and experience that evaporated aclohol sensation on your hands.

a.

ps. this stuff is alot better than ths testors stuff as the bonded plastic dries and provides strength much much faster.

Originally posted by hirofkd
But, is it any better than Liquid-poly or Testor liquid cement? They've been available for years, and do a great job welding parts. (Tamiya has a similar one, too.)

its definately better than liquid cement, it bonds much stronger. it also does a better job at filling in seams, i found myself rarely using putty to fill seams with Tenax.

Originally posted by hirofkd
But, is it any better than Liquid-poly or Testor liquid cement? They've been available for years, and do a great job welding parts. (Tamiya has a similar one, too.)


Is this the one you r talking about hirofkd?

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/205130tamthin.jpg

That TENAX-7R stuff sounds similar.
All i can say is "go and get some as its amazing stuff"

christofurr....As for as i know it is only made in PNth at www.mrmodels.co.nz

Hmmm

Looks like its Palmy road trip time :)

Up for a bbq Warren? ;)

Originally posted by Toksin
Hmmm



Up for a bbq Warren? ;)

If your bringing the beers !!

P Man. It sounds as though the liquid glue you are talking about is something I first used back in NZ over 25years ago. It is/was commonly used by model railroaders which is how I came across it with my late father at Stokers Model Shop in Greenlane, Auckland. They called it something else to do with there own name just like your local shop appears to have done if my suspicions are correct.
I found out quite by accident from a friend who worked in a paint shop who smelt my bottle one day when I had it open on the bench that it is actually called M.E.K. or Methyl Ethyl Keytone and yes it is a solvent. It is used for cleaning amongst other things electronic circuit boards, hearing aids etc.
As for affecting paint - it sure does! It will strip it as quick as a flash and because it gets trapped under the paint residue it then starts to work on your model by softening the plastic and I have noticed it will actually swell the plastic a little. You can try to sand it back but it is as though it has changed the chemical structure of the plastic and turned it porous. If you are holding two parts together and a little runs between your finger and the plastic I gaurantee a perfect fingerprint on your model.
I still use it today with the results you have described on UNPAINTED plastic. Itwill fuse any 2 bits of styrene together as if welded.
It is available from Marine shops here in Australia under its own name.
A word of caution though about getting it on your skin. In some people it has been known to effect skin.

So is the Tamiya extra-thin cement anytthing like that Tenax or Milfix? Might have to pick up a bottle!

i've been using Ambroid Pro Weld for a long time now and i think its great!!!

Originally posted by daggerlee
So is the Tamiya extra-thin cement anytthing like that Tenax or Milfix? Might have to pick up a bottle!

Yes, me wanna know too :D

talking about glue,
one friend of mine, do not use glue, really, he use nitro thinner, it disolves a little the plastic and literally solder the pieces.

I use nothing more that Humborl Liquid Poly and the Revell stuff with the hyperdermic type applicator. I've been wanting to try some of that Tenax stuff for a while, i guess its worth a try if you guys say there is a noticeable difference.

Originally posted by primera man
christofurr....As for as i know it is only made in PNth at www.mrmodels.co.nz

They don't have it listed on there :p, what's the retail on it?

They have quite a good selection of kits though. Could be worth a drive up there one weekend soon to have a look around, maybe pick up a couple of new kits :).

Originally posted by christofurr


They don't have it listed on there :p, what's the retail on it?

They have quite a good selection of kits though. Could be worth a drive up there one weekend soon to have a look around, maybe pick up a couple of new kits :).
I'm sure it was only around the $5-6 mark.

Nobbys Nuts.....yep, it sure does eat up paint. Like you said, it can only be used on unpainted parts.

FOTW.....The main thing i like about it is it is so quick. It bonds so fast and has a very strong bond. Plus with the added bonus of being able to sand it straight away speeds up building time :flash:

Originally posted by Nobbys Nuts
A word of caution though about getting it on your skin. In some people it has been known to effect skin.

If it is the same type of stuff we use in Plastics at school to bond styrene, too much exposure to it can give you cancer...If I remember correctly.

Ok, some more detailed pics showing 5 of the top for liquid cements.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/361252liquidcements.jpg

Left to right:
1 Tamiya:
Written in japanese and cant make out which model is this cement in particular, anyone can identify it?
2 Plastruct's Plastic Weld : Not much has been mentioned about this.
3 Testors : Seems good by those who have used it.
4 Tenax 7R : Best of the best, whats already been said.
5 Ambroid's Pro Weld : Not much mentioned about it too.

Overall the site didnt mention much about the rest cept for Tenax7R which it says was the best to use but also mentioned that you should try any of them to see which you are comfortable with.

Any feedbacks would be great about the others besides Tenax7R.

Bah I hate it when there are no pics for silly ol' me :D

Thats a pretty good write up, this thread should be added to the FAQ.

Chain: What site did you get that from?

Jonno I got it from here:
http://www.scififantmodmadrealm.com/AMASFH-1.html

Not much info but some good tips for correcting seams.

Cheers. :)

:devil:

You know I hate to be a sour puss, but lacquer thinner does the same thing. And at a cost per once difference is well worth spending 5 bucks on a 1QT can. Sure it smells bad, but most of that other stuff does too. :rolleyes:

I use lacquer thinner to weld joints all the time. It works just as well as any of those other "space age welders". I can put some thinner in a joint wait about 20-30 seconds and its done. I really don't recomend that you use this with painted parts-you will have a mess.

Scott

Originally posted by appleseed
so... i don't know what tenax or p-man's source for this new liquid glue contains but any solvent that can evaporate that quick and melt plastic may certainly enter your bloodstream through your skin and cause undocumented harm. so just be careful using this stuff and don't arbitrarily pour some excess glue on your hand just to see it evaporate and experience that evaporated aclohol sensation on your hands.

a.


I would just like to reiterate this point. Don't be stupid about chemicals that you don't know what they are. Your skin is very porous. This obviously doesn't apply only to you PMan.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?postid=839280

I use plastic welder which works exactly how you desrcibe this stuff, it works GREAT and makes building body kits soooo much easier because you don't have to wait as long between drying. My glue bottle says "toxic" just like yours and says "has been known to cause cancer in small lab rats so I would not recommend rubbing it on your finger anymore.:D just my 2 cents

the photo that chain posted has the plastistruct glue in there but there is another one. the red bottle is weldene and is the 'safe' and environmentally friendly one. this one needs to cure overnight. it does not work as fast as the bondene one from the same manufacturer. the bondene one comes in a white labeling and is the one with the higher toxicity. i would recommend the bondene one as it works much faster than the weldene.

the label for the weldene says it is for styrene to styrene plastic only while the bondene works for styrene and abs plastic. abs plastic is a bit more resistant to regular plastic glues or solvents which allows me to believe that bondene attacks or melts the plastic more agressively than the weldene.


a.

Tenax is all I use now. It's really good stuff

OK, some people have asked for some more info on 'what is Tamiya's thin glue like in comparison'... here's a bit of a run down:

Glues - they act as a glue, leave a substance in the joint that sticks the parts together. There is some bonding and softening of the plastic, but still pretty much a compound.

Tamiya's 'Ultra-Thin Cement' fits into this, and is still a glue. However, this is VERY thin, and runs uses Capillary Action to draw the glue into the seam, rather than lying on the outside. This results in a very good coverage of the glue.

On the side of BONDERS, such as Tenax, they are a bonding agent that melts the plastic, and then evaporates. If you use a normal paintbrush to put it on, it leaves a dry residue you can just flick off the brush. If you have a spill, just leave the part to dry, and the surface will be unmarred - but don't touch while wet, as said previously, you will have nice fingerprints everywhere.

Again, the easiest way to apply is to use cappillary action to draw the liquid into the joint.

Word of caution - these are extremely carcinogenic in nature (cancer causing) - use VERY well ventilated rooms, and avoid skin contact. In fact, Tenax has a huge warning label on it about this (Apparently only causes Cancer in the state of California? Go figure...). It is however really good stuff, so it's worthwhile looking at. Don't know about getting it airmail though - probably sea-mail only.

Hum, I always thought Tamiya extrathin was 'bonding' glue, doesn't it smell like regular model glue?

Originally posted by primera man


If your bringing the beers !!

Sorted. :D

This will be added to the FAQ as there is a lot of good info in here for others to read.
Cheers :)

Isn't this exactly like Tamiya's Extra thing cement ? Because it "melts" the plastic together. You use it on the seems. You can sand it after a few seconds of dry time.

I paid $3.99 for my big bottle of it. So its almost the same price.

Originally posted by Mainomega
Isn't this exactly like Tamiya's Extra thing cement ? Because it "melts" the plastic together. You use it on the seems. You can sand it after a few seconds of dry time.

I paid $3.99 for my big bottle of it. So its almost the same price.

Mainomega, so U r saying that you have use Tamiya's extra thin cement before and it performs the same as the Tenax? With Tenax you just scrape it off according to those who use it. With Tamiya, you have to sand it?

Hope you can verify this, thxs.

tamiya makes two types of model glue. the tamiya cement comes in a white bottle with a large brush like the ones in the testors glue bottles. the other one is tamiya extra thin cement which comes in a green bottle and comes with an itsy-bitsy brush applicator under the cap. the tamiya cement is thicker and thus takes a bit of time to dry. this will leave a film of glue which you may sand down. the other one will not leave any residues as it only melts the plastic to be bonded and the excess just evaporates away. the price for the tamiya cements rival that of the plastistruct ones that i use. they run for about $3.50 - $3.75 USD. however, with the plastistruct, you get more for what you pay. for glues that evaporate in air at such a high rate, price per volume goes a long way! so keep those caps on until you're ready to use them otherwise you'll see half the bottle gone in about a weeks time!

a.


ps...

the thing with califronia is that all carcinogenic materials are required by law to have a warning label. other states may not have this but lucky for us californians, we get a bit of heads up as to what we're dealing with.

Thxs appelseed for the reply.

That about sums up what I need to know.
Dont think we have plastistruct here in Singapore nor the other top 3 brands.

Well, tamiya would do fine if I cant find the others.

I just picked up a bottle of Tenax 7R and a Flex-I-File "Touch-n-Flow" applicator. I'll take some pics too and let you know how it works out. :)

Tenax is good stuff. The Touch-n-flow applicator makes using it a snap. You stick the glass end into the glue, wait for a few seconds, then let the glue travel down to the needle, then apply. If you want to get a drop on the end, just hold vertically, etc. etc.

Only annoying part is that you need to clean the tip once in a while by dipping it into Tenax since dissolved plastic has a tendency to build up on it.

Might as well throw my dissolved putty out the window! :o

preety nice

good luck

AE86 kid

what website can I buy these products at? US based, please.

Chain...Plastruct Bondene is sold here in Singapore. At the Orchard Store (In Specialist's Shopping Centre). Plastruct Bondene is what i use to glue unpainted parts (e.g. Engine Halves). I Tried it on painted parts, and i swear never to do that again. It ruins the paint coat like nothing. As it travels along the joint line, it starts dissolving paint...and the paint on the joint line would be gone!